removing flywheel and electrical

innkeepr11

Recruit
Joined
Aug 26, 2009
Messages
4
New to this, and hoping to fix a '69 9.5 hp Johnson. I'm getting no spark at all. What can cause this? I'm assuming there's a coil and magneto under the flywheel. How do I get the flywheel off? I've got a jaw puller, but I can't seem to get it to budge. New plugs and the wiring that's not under the flywheel looks good.

Hoping to check points and other electrical under the flywheel if I can ever get it off. Any help for me out there? Thanks!

Jonathan
 

Cofe

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Apr 23, 2009
Messages
1,883
Re: removing flywheel and electrical

You need a chicken foot puller. And 3 grade 8 bolts to screw into the flywheel. You can borrow a puller from autozone or other parts places. A jaw puller can deform your flywheel.
When you get a chicken foot, get it good and tight and if the flywheel doesn't come off, just rap the center bolt with a hammer and it should pop.
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,226
Re: removing flywheel and electrical

You need a chicken foot puller. And 3 grade 8 bolts to screw into the flywheel. You can borrow a puller from autozone or other parts places. A jaw puller can deform your flywheel.
When you get a chicken foot, get it good and tight and if the flywheel doesn't come off, just rap the center bolt with a hammer and it should pop.

"jaw" pullers that grab the outside of the flywheel are guaranteed to either bend or break it. You must use the three bolts just described.
 

dkondelik

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 10, 2002
Messages
643
Re: removing flywheel and electrical

fly wheels can be a real bear (I've pulled the threads clean out of a couple before i learned to be patient).
Use the 3-bolt puller. Tighten the puller. spay some liquid wrench or other good penetrating oil on the crank shaft. and give it time. let it sit over night. tighten the puller a bit more. give it another shot of penetrating oil. etc.
One/day, after slightly tightening the puller, tap the main bolt of the puller (not to hard else you can damage bearings) with a hammer. sometimes the flywheel will pop off when this is done.
Occasionally, applying heat (propane torch) to the flywheel can help it work free.

Be patient. it will eventually let go.
 

greatoutdoors

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 2, 2009
Messages
116
Re: removing flywheel and electrical

They are called harmonic balancer pullers if you go to autozone or advance auto. About 15 bucks. Like the guys said, don't rush it. It will take some force to get it to pop off, but try to apply the pressure on the puller evenly from your breaker bar, and make sure you have the bolts screwed into the flywheel exactly the same length. 1/2 inch is usually good. Count the rotations you screw them in so you know they're all equal.
 

Cofe

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Apr 23, 2009
Messages
1,883
Re: removing flywheel and electrical

They are called harmonic balancer pullers if you go to autozone or advance auto. About 15 bucks. Like the guys said, don't rush it. It will take some force to get it to pop off, but try to apply the pressure on the puller evenly from your breaker bar, and make sure you have the bolts screwed into the flywheel exactly the same length. 1/2 inch is usually good. Count the rotations you screw them in so you know they're all equal.

Thanks for the proper verbage greatoutdoors. Alot of oldtimers only know them as chicken foot pullers. Also Oriley parts stores have loaner tools.
 

greatoutdoors

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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May 2, 2009
Messages
116
Re: removing flywheel and electrical

No problem. Buy one though. You wont regret it, and you'll probably need it again because working on these old motors is addicting. I started off with one that came on a boat I bought, and this weekend I'll have my 4th and 5th one, and I got the first one this May!
 

innkeepr11

Recruit
Joined
Aug 26, 2009
Messages
4
Re: removing flywheel and electrical

Was out of town for several weeks and your replies were perfect! Got a small jaw puller (chicken or harmonic...) and used the bolts and when I hit the flywheel after a couple of hours, it came flying off. (Is that why it's called a 'flywheel...'? -- just kidding). Many thanks. Got it cleaned up and running great with no misses -- what a great sound! However, having trouble with it idling down. Any suggestions for how to get it to idle down without dying? Thanks again!
 

fire7882

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 15, 2008
Messages
172
Re: removing flywheel and electrical

Thats what happened to me. Flywheel flew up about 3 feet and almost hit me in the head. I knew to leave the flywheel bolt on loosly but forgot. Leason learned.
 

cbmma1978

Cadet
Joined
Mar 30, 2008
Messages
14
Re: removing flywheel and electrical

I know I am "late" on this thread, but thought I would toss this into the mix...
If you don't have access to the proper flywheel puller, there is a fast and dirty way to get the flywheel off.
UNDERSTAND...this CAN damage things, so use this at your own risk...
I had a motor (115hp 1979 Johnson) and needed to get the flywheel off. I had been out fishing, and the motor just quit. I used the electric trolling motor to get to solid ground. I was, quite literally---really, I am NOT kidding---, on an island. The trolling motor would not get me back to the launch, and it was too far to try to paddle back. I did not wish to spend the night...or maybe longer...waiting for some one to come along to tow me in. (This was early October in Upstate NY, on Lake Ontario. It gets COLD at that time of year........ I had some tools with me, including a socket wrench and socket that would fit the flywheel nut. No one else on the island with me. No flywheel puller on the island..no cell phone with me (THAT will never happen again)..but, there was a cabin (well, a shack, anyway), a stack of wood, an axe, and some splitting wedges...OK, so I could build a fire, but that was not going to get me home...
So, how to get the flywheel off? I had to use what I had available......I inserted the splitting wedges under the flywheel, making sure that one was exactly lined up with the keyway on the shaft, and the other exactly opposite the first one. It took a bit of playing around (turning the flywheel by hand) to get everything oriented so the splitting wedges had some place to sit against on the top of the motor, where pressure would not cause any damage to the motor parts....but I found spots that would work. I used the axe to tap the splitting wedges under the flywheel, until I had enough friction to hold the flywheel still. I took the flywheel nut off (I had to apply "impact" with a hammer, to the socket wrench, while keeping torque on the wrench (a third hand sure would have been nice..but you can do it with two hands) to get the nut to break free. Of course, in the process, I destroyed the ratchet capability of the wrench, but at least it would still work like a non-ratchet. So, that was out of the way. Now, using the axe (the flat end of the blade, of course), I gently drove each wedge in..hit one wedge, hit other wedge, tap on flywheel with hammer...repeat sequence several times. After about the 5th sequence of this, the flywheel came off. NO DAMAGE to flywheel or motor. Fixed the broken wire (which is why I had to get under the flywheel) by twisting it together, and taping it (I did a proper fix when I got back to mainland, of course). Put flywheel back on, and torqued it down as much as I could with my (now) non-ratchet wrench (also re-torqued that properly when I got home). Motor started right up, and ran fine. Put the axe and wedges back, hopped in the boat, and went home.
As I said, this procedure has its' inherent risks (bent/broken flywheel, damage to motor parts from the wedges...oh, and smashed up fingers if you are not careful), but if you are stuck somewhere without the proper tools, you do what you have to.
I have since used the same type technique on a motor that had the bolt holes for the puller stripped out. But that time, I was working in my garage. And since the motor was non-functional, and I had gotten it for free, I had nothing to lose.
As I said, this is NOT the proper way to get the flywheel off....but if you have no choice, or absolutely cannot get the flywheel off any other way, it can be a life saver.
 
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