Repaint of lower unit, car paint O.K.

[laxhan]

I want to repaint the lower unit of my suzuki V4, 100 hp from 1995. Does it make sense at all or would any new paint go off after a short while anyway? Can I use any car paint or is it necessary to buy the original paint? I know this is the johnson forum, but I guess this is a general problem with all motors. There is not very much paint of and I only drive in fresh water.
Thanks for any help

 

[Chris1956]

Re: Repaint of lower unit, car paint O.K.

The most important thing is to prime the lower unit with a good aluminum primer like zinc chromate. You may use any overcoat you want for the overcoat, but realize that some paints are not suitable for underwater use.

 

[Gary H NC]

Re: Repaint of lower unit, car paint O.K.

Make sure you prep the metal,it must be stripped before zinc chromate primer is used.You really should use the original engine paint.
The water pressure is good at peeling the cheap paint off..

 

[Texasmark]

Re: Repaint of lower unit, car paint O.K.

Also read instructions on primer on prep for final coat, including necessity of light sanding.

Last is to let it thoroughly dry before use.

Mark

 

[riverjet502]

Re: Repaint of lower unit, car paint O.K.

Prime as mentioned above... I have had good results with just using automotive acrylic enamel. This has held up real nice on my jet pump for 8 seasons. You may want to consider using Poly urethane for more durability tho...

 

[45Auto]

Re: Repaint of lower unit, car paint O.K.

I've had good luck repainting lowers using the Mercury specs. Just have the paint dealer match your existing paint (DAR-9000 is mercury black) if he can't find a code for yours. Sand blast, bead blast, or sand any corrosion down to bare aluminum. Buy the SMALLEST quantity of paint you can! A pint would probably do a couple of complete motors!

Refinishing procedure:

This procedure should be used in refinishing MerCruiser sterndrives and transom plates. This procedure will provide the most durable paint system available in the field. The listed materials should be purchased from a local DITZLER AUTOMOTIVE finish supply outlet. The minimum packaged quantity of each material shown is sufficient to refinish several sterndrives and transom assemblies.

1 QT. DX-533 Alumiprep #33 metal preparation
1 QT. DX-503 Alodine #1201 conversion coating
1 QT. DP-40 Non sanding Epoxy Primer zinc chromate primer
1 QT. DP-401 Catalyst for DP-40
1 QT. DAR-9000 Acrylic Enamel-black topcoat
1 Pt. DXR-80 Delthane Ultra-additive for acrylic enamel
1 QT. DTR-602 Acrylic Enamel Reducer-temperature range 70-90 degree F.

PROCEDURE:

1. Scuff sand to remove all blistered paint and roughen factory finish. Remove sanding dust.
2. Follow manufacturer's recommendations and instructions on the individual containers.
3. Apply DX-533 (Alumiprep #33) to clean and condition the aluminum.
4. Apply DX-503 (Alodine #1201) brush on chemical conversion coating for aluminum.
5. The DP-40 (Epoxy Chromate Primer) mixed with DP-401 Catalyst can now be applied. A .75 mil film build is recommended.
NOTE: Allow 30 minute induction period for permeation of the epoxy chromate primer and the catalyst prior to application.
6. The topcoat consists of DAR-9000 Acrylic Enamel Black and the DXR-80 Delthane Ultra additive, and DTR-602 Reducer. It is a polyurethane acrylic enamel system which provides fast drying, durability, high resistance to corrosion and good color and gloss retention.
7. The type of spray gun used will determine the proper reduction ratio IMPORTANT: DO NOT use any type of aerosol spray paints, as the paint will not properly adhere to the surface, nor will the coating be sufficiently thick to resist future paint blistering.
NOTE: DO NOT PAINT SACRIFICIAL ANODES.