Replace rivets in aluminum hull

[baytonemus]

I'm sure this has been covered but I couldn't find anything directly relating to rivet replacement in the titles of search results. I have a 1960 Alumacraft speedboat that is missing a few rivets and has had others replaced with pop rivets. Although I've used a pop rivet tool for lots of projects, I know that's not the proper way to do this. If anyone could share info or a link on this process I'd appreciate it.

Thanks!

 

[Huron Angler]

Re: Replace rivets in aluminum hull

I used regular pop rivets on a few thru-hull repairs...they have worked fine with a little 3M 5200 globbed on before popping them in.

Closed-head rivets are best, hard to find though without ordering 500.

Fastenal and Grainger have them.

 

[jspano]

Re: Replace rivets in aluminum hull

i used http://www.rivetsonline.com/ not bad on the min. order but think about what you need width and grip size(thickness of 2 mat. being revited)
if you are only needing a few and can find the size in the big box stores. you can use them. i sealed them with 5200(3m product marine adhesive) around the shank revited them in and wiped up the excess. i then went even further with some gluvits (marine epoxy) in a syringe and seal the part that the mandrel breaks off at.

 

[richplewis]

Re: Replace rivets in aluminum hull

You can get these from California Rivet Supply too.

 

[baytonemus]

Re: Replace rivets in aluminum hull

I've been researching this over the last few days on this forum and elsewhere, and I thank all who have offered their input. I now have some more specific and informed questions. Here are a few photos so you can see what I'm dealing with. The post immediately following this will have a couple more.



It would appear that all of the rivets in my hull are solid, possibly with brazier heads. (I know, I know...I was something of a brazier head myself when I was a kid. Loved looking at the lingerie section of the catalog. Anyway...) My inclination would be to stay with solid rivets if possible. I'm not too worried about the head style just so long as it's something on the flat side.

So my first question is, has anyone ever used a simple hand rivet set like this to install these? Since these will be aluminum rivets of less than 1/4" in diameter, it seems like it might not be too terribly difficult to put them in by hand. I don't own an air compressor or I'd consider buying an inexpensive pneumatic rivet hammer.

Second question is, if doing them by hand, do you really need an actual bucking bar or would a good short-handled sledge hammer do the job just as well?

Next question has to do with tightening up existing rivets. I've read that solid rivets can be tightened using the same methods that are used to install them. Has anyone tried this? How well does it work? Could it also be leaking around tight rivets but still through the seams?

Penultimate (second-to-last) question is about all of the silicone caulking that you can see in my photos. It appears to me that the previous owner didn't really know where it was leaking, so he simply caulked every seam and all the rivets connected to those two ribs/braces (not sure of the correct term) running lengthwise on the bottom of the hull. Some of it is pretty solidly in place. I scrubbed the entire inside of the hull yesterday. Some of it is loose. I don't recall anyone on this forum recommending the use of silicone caulk as a sealant, so the question is, would there be any reason to try and remove the non-loose stuff? I guess I would do this if I'm going to try and tighten up some rivets. Otherwise...?

Last question (I promise...at least for now): I've been thinking about how to test for leaks. I'm an hour from the nearest lake. I could pull it over there, put it in the water, and try to observe as many leaks as I can before the water level gets too high. If there are many, that might not take too long.

The other idea I had is to leave it the trailer in my driveway, put the plug in, and run the hose inside the boat. Then, I could get underneath and see where she's leakin'.

I realize that this could be idiotic on many levels. Will the weight of the water put too much stress on the hull? Can the trailer handle the weight? I would guess it would take 250 gallons or more to get the water level up high enough to hit all the rivets I'm concerned about. That's a lot of weight. I could probably angle the trailer forward and do the front half with less water inside, drain it, then raise the front up and do the back half.

Another alternative to have someone aim the hose in specific spots while I monitor from below. Not sure that would work as well, but maybe...

If anyone is still reading at this point, I apologize for such a long post. Thanks!

 

[baytonemus]

Re: Replace rivets in aluminum hull

Here's another issue. I've got a cracked floor brace.



This is the only spot in the boat where it "creaks" when I walk on the inside of the hull and it definitely has to be fixed. I'm probably going to use HTS-2000 aluminum repair rods and braze it right in place. It will take off some paint but they really work great. I've used them to fix cracks in aluminum cycle covers, etc. Check out the video demo at the link above. It's like Durafix (which I've never used) but it's supposed to be a superior product.

 

[baytonemus]

Re: Replace rivets in aluminum hull

I bought a bucking bar and rivet set for universal head solid rivets. A friend came over and laid under the boat with the rivet set backed up with a sledge then, when he hollered, I whacked the bucking bar with a 4 lb hammer. It took 4-8 hits to tighten them up good and tight. Sure, that guy's won't even talk to me anymore, but it was totally worth it.

Needed to use some screws in addition to the rivets in spots where the braces inside had lifted up from the inside of the hull. Coated with Gluvit on both sides. Here's a photo...



Still need to put some paint on the Gluvit, but everything is well sealed and there are no leaks where I have made repairs.