Replaced ignition module now missing all speeds

[Beck]

Hi to all,<br /><br />Well I'll try to explain, before replacing the ign. module it wouldn't run above 2k rpm and boumced back and forth "slow" kicking in for some reason but deffently not overheating.<br /><br />I replaced the ign. module. Now at different speeds from mid range to wot it just ran badly missing very bad, runing, but missing. I'm not sure which plug or if its both. As yesterday was very windy and rough, I probably shouldn't have been out but I wanted to see if the ign. module had repaired it. The puzzleing thing about it is that it ran fine for 15 to 20 minutes.<br />I checked the temp. of the engine and wasn't hot, I could put my hand on the block for several seconds.<br /><br />I'll try to get out later today to check further like which plug. What other things should I check while out on the water? I have a fluke vom meter.<br />I will check the plugs again but they were brand new and have new plug wires.<br /><br />Thanks,<br />Beck

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Replaced ignition module now missing all speeds

hello<br />I think I said before your fluke is almost worthless with a cdu series ign. did you use the tool to set the airgap on the module correctly?<br />with a fluke you can test the coil primary and secondaryu resistance and the plug wire resitace and thats about it. did you try runnibg it with the tan slow wire disconnected? how about a test with the kill circuit wires disconnected. would not be the first motor I ever saw with a bad temp switch that would trigger slow and not trigger the horn. if your gonna play with outboards there are certain tools you must buy. and a stevens cd-77 is about the best to start with, maybe the s-48 spark tester as well.<br /> then you will need terminal extenders and jumper leads as well.<br /> good luck and keep posting but quit tossing parts. it will get very expensive if ya toss parts at it.

 

[Beck]

Re: Replaced ignition module now missing all speeds

Rodbolt,<br /><br />I did not have the tool to set the airgap on the module. I thought I positioned it pretty close to where the other one was, flush with the post it sat on which was where the existing one was.<br /><br />With the old module I did test it with the tan wire disconnect and it did the same thing. <br /><br />I did not check the old module with the kill circuit disconnected.<br /><br />Actually I thought I had check just about everything I could check with the means that I had. And I thought the next thing would be to replace the module. Its not doing the same thing now as it was before. The problem is different. Now if you thing its related I would love to hear recommendations. And if you think I want to just toss parts your wrong.<br /><br />The tools that you recommended are those the basic items needed? I made a list of them and where is the best place to purchase them? A marine dealer? And the airgap tool where would I find one of those?<br /><br />Yes I am a novice at working on outboards, I've worked on just about everything else I've own. Thats the downfall of being a DIY. And I would think 90% of the people posting here are novices. <br />Thats why we appreciate you more experienced guys giving us information.<br /><br />Thanks, <br />Beck

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Replaced ignition module now missing all speeds

hello<br /> dud I dont mean to sound like I am busting your chops. its just that most "novice" DIY's have no concept of high performance precision equipment. you must have a basic understanding of electronics to comprehend the ign system. it generates its own current by rotating magnets in the flywhhel past a coil. it uses several of these to perform various functions. if the air gap is not correct it may or may not work well. timing is advanced and retarded by rotating the entire assy. in relation to the crank. sometimes in the rush to repair something we create more problems than we solve. you said it ran fine for 20 min or so? that would indicate to me the possibilty of fuel contamination. especially if its rough. test the spark again . I use a snap on KV tester to test the plug fireing voltage. I use the CD-77 and terminal extenders to watch coil primary voltage at all rpm's. if the coil primary voltage is steady and the engine missis I can rulke out pack output. the coils do fail occasionaly.they will pass resistance tests and still not work due to internal shorts and opens. the tiny primary lead clips can corrode and fail inside the rubber cap. the main jonnyrude tools I use are cd-77,stevens s-48 spark tester,pl-88 load resistor,snap-on KV tester, various homemade jumper terminals but you can buy them from stevens. the cd-77 can be used to trouble shoot the ign on almost anything. the s-48 can be used as a spark tester on anything as well. the KV tester is called a scope on a rope and I could not live without it. I can find a weak cylinder or plug by a quick inductive clip on test. so I am not busting your chops. I realize my profession is eat up with billybob dumbuns and crooks. not all of us are but there seem to be more each year. the clymers manual usually have a fair description of how the systems work.<br /> how much electrical/electronics experience do you have? how much training and understanding of carburation do you have? are you sure you understand all the principles behind why the motor actually runs?. I know some techs who dont know the basics they just have nice tool boxes and toss parts. I am self employed so if I replace a part and I am wrong I get stuck with the part. plus most my work is mobile so my customers are watching and with me when I am working. gets a mite interesting sometimes but that is a different post. keep posting and we will help where we can.<br /> accept my apologies if I seemed like I was chop busting<br />good luck and keep posting

 

[Beck]

Re: Replaced ignition module now missing all speeds

Rodbolt,<br /><br />Actually you as well as others have been very helpfull to me on several things to check with all of the post I have made. I did feel a slight chop busting but it was nothing that I didn't think I didn't deserved. Thats the chance us DIY take trying to repair our own motors. Your style of mobile service I would like here and I wouldn't mind paying for it, it's just here you drop off your rig and they fix it several days later. Not know how long they spend working on it or if the parts they replace are actually bad, sure you can ask for the parts but they may check good and under the load they may be bad. Thats the problem with troubleshooting intermitten electronic problems. I have had training in electromagnetic principals and electronics. Electrical troubleshooting etc. But I am by far no outboard mechanic. <br /><br />Hey there are no hard feelings at all here and like I have said earlier I and many others appreciate the advice you and other knowledgeable people give us novices.<br /><br />I went and looked at another boat today because I want a larger boat with a bigger engine. Although I really like my 14' xx wide flat with my 48 spl it's a great bayou fishing machine.<br /><br />I didn't get a chance to check things today.<br /><br />Heres hoping all had a great day.<br /><br />Beck

 

[Hooty]

Re: Replaced ignition module now missing all speeds

Sure sounded to me like ole Rodbolt wuz whippin' up on ya too. (wink)<br />Something else that might help isolate your problem is a spray bottle of premix. With the air silencer off and the engine stumblin' around, give the carbs a little bump of premix and see what happens. If the engine picks up momentarily, you could have a dirty carb or sick fuel pump. If it just floods out, you're probably on the right lookin' for an ignition problem. You might be able to accomplish the same results by a quick bump of the fuel primer.<br />Keep us posted.<br /><br />c/6<br />Hooty

 

[Beck]

Re: Replaced ignition module now missing all speeds

Thanks Hooty,<br /><br />I will try that this evening, its off to work now. You know I just had to check this forum for any other suggestions. Gives me something to think about.<br /><br />Later,<br /><br />Beck