Replacement Rectifier

[kellyisu]

I have had my boat in storage since fall and have known all winter that I needed a new rectifier for this year. So I went to the Merc boat dealer in town to pick one up for when I pull the boat out this weekend to start getting it ready for spring.

I have a 1979 40hp 2 stroke electric start merc.

I was a little confused when I was handed the new rectifier. Those of you familure with rectifiers in the yr, make, and model of my motor recognize the typical black square three offset prong rectifier. The one I was handed was gray, 3 pronged with the prongs running in a diagonal fashion. I really questioned this rectifier when I recieved it because I have researched this part alot and have yet to see one like it. But I did take into consideration it might be fairly new so I was hesitant to argue to much about buying it.

I was wondering if anyone might have some more knowledge on this particular rectifier. It is the same size as the black rectifiers that sierra and CDI make. The prongs are labeled: (Prong 1) ALT, YEL (Prong 2) Gray, TACH (Prong 3) ALT, YEL

I don't know who it's made by but has the numbers 17602-1 on it. I have been unable to find any info on this particular part.

I really want to know more about this part. I guess I could visit the dealer again tmarrow, but I did want to here from others opion on here as well.

Has anyone else seen or replaced their old rectifier with this same rectifier??????????????

Maybe I could try and post a pic later.

Thanks a Bunch!!!!

 

[Laddies]

Re: Replacement Rectifier

It sounds like he sold you a will fit rectifier, probably at Mercury prices if it was priced considerably less thats fine if you chose to adapt it fine, if not take it back and tell him you want the right part.

 

[pops]

Re: Replacement Rectifier

K, just for information. The part you describe is OE for a 1995, 115 hp Mariner motor. I have been trying to cross reference this rectifier number on my motor (the 17602-1 on the part) with no success.

Can you give me a Mercury part number for the part you were given? I would like to replace my rectifier with the same identical part if opossible.

I want to replace my rectifier because I now have no tach reading and the starting battery is not being charged properly. Any comments from anyone on this diagnosis?

 

[kellyisu]

Re: Replacement Rectifier

He did charge me more than enough for this ($46). I was just gonna pic one up on ebay but I kinda wanted it for this wekend so I said hell w/it and just went down to them and bought it. Laddies, you think I should take it back? I was becomming more unhappy all night thinking about not knowing exactly what I was getting at the price I paid. I just hate feeling like I have been jipped, espacially being a college student. What I pay for is what I want to get. If it is a good rectifier than I am not so worried, but like I said before, I have yet to see one like it and I don't know the manufacturor.

 

[jimg984]

Re: Replacement Rectifier

sounds like a 3 dollar 1 from radio shack, or a 4 dollar one from mouser
radio shack and the mouser ones work fine have to redo the connections hope this helps

 

[jimg984]

Re: Replacement Rectifier

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine...nalKeyword=640-36mb-120a&Ntk=Mouser_Wildcards

 

[kellyisu]

Re: Replacement Rectifier

IF Anyone else has any comments that would be great to, THANKS!

 

[kellyisu]

Re: Replacement Rectifier

This is what the rectifier I recieved from the dealer looks like

and here is what the standard replacement looks like for my motor

Any ideas??
Thanks!!!!

 

[pops]

Re: Replacement Rectifier

K, what problem are you trying to fix? I talked to an experienced mechanic, and he told me that the RECTIFIER that I was trying to replace hardly ever went bad. He advised me to look at REGULATOR and if clear potting on back was burned, it was probably causing all my problems and should be replaced. Mine was definitely fried. I found several sources on the net with CDI or Sierra replacement for around $110. Mechanic said price at boat dealer would probably be close to double that. Rectifier like we are describing is around $30 on the net.

There have been a lot of posts about rectifier problems, but apparently on my motor (115 Mariner, 1995), the terminology is confusing. I have a rectifier that appears to be bulletproof, and a regulator that can fry over time.

 

[kellyisu]

Re: Replacement Rectifier

Has anyone seen or know anything about this gray rectifier??

THANKS!

 

[Laddies]

Re: Replacement Rectifier

Check your PMs

 

[jeast]

Re: Replacement Rectifier

I upgraded mine with the mouser one jimg984 spoke of, he was right , it works like a champ. maybe consider this.

 

[kellyisu]

Re: Replacement Rectifier

Thanks for the comments

Although, what I am really interested in is who is this gray rectifier made buy that I already bought at the dealer and what does it normally sell for. I can't find it anywhere, and I want to know what it is that I bought, before I return it if I do.

The only reason why I got this one is because the local mercury dealer didn't have the normal black CDI/Sierra part I really wanted to replace it with like the old one still on my motor and the gray one is what they gave me instead.

If anyone recognizes the gray one like what I posted please let me know.

Thanks

 

[j_martin]

Re: Replacement Rectifier

K, what problem are you trying to fix? I talked to an experienced mechanic, and he told me that the RECTIFIER that I was trying to replace hardly ever went bad. He advised me to look at REGULATOR and if clear potting on back was burned, it was probably causing all my problems and should be replaced. Mine was definitely fried. I found several sources on the net with CDI or Sierra replacement for around $110. Mechanic said price at boat dealer would probably be close to double that. Rectifier like we are describing is around $30 on the net.

There have been a lot of posts about rectifier problems, but apparently on my motor (115 Mariner, 1995), the terminology is confusing. I have a rectifier that appears to be bulletproof, and a regulator that can fry over time.

The regulator with the clear potting is on a different system. It is a rectifier and regulator in one, with 5 wires.

This system has a rectifier, and may havve a 3 wire shunt type regulator also.

It's possible to substitute the 5 wire regulator. The stator winding is about the same. It's an improvement over the rectifier system.

hope it helps
John

 

[kellyisu]

Re: Replacement Rectifier

J_martin
are we on the same page?
we have different motors and the rectifier that I have is a rectifier/regulator(same termonology, retifier/regulator- same thing) that normaly looks like this: whhich helps maintain the charge to the battery/keeps tach working.

I am not exactly sure what you are talking about. Our motors may be slightly different when it comes to this part.

If I am confused maybe yu can clearify this more for me.

And when u r saying clear potting, what exactly are u referring to, I think I know but not sure.
I do appreciate your input

Thank you
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
edit

with further reading I think I understand. but could u clerify more on your further post. sorry if I seemed a litle confused

do u know who makes this gray rectifier??????????????????????????????????????????????

anyone???

 

[j_martin]

Re: Replacement Rectifier

Don't know who makes the gray regulator, but if 2 terminals are labeled AC and the other + or output or something like that, it probably is usable. It's probably a snowmobile or atv part.

Your XR2, and my XR4 normally come with the diode you pictured, and usually a regulator on top of the motor with 3 wires to it. Normally, AC (the stator yellow wires) go to the AC terminals, the tach hooks up to either one of them, and the + terminal goes to the battery usually via the solenoid connection. The - terminal of this bridge rectifier is internally grounded to the mounting plate.

It is possible to replace it with a rectifier/regulator. The late model 16 amp systems and 40 amp dual regulator (2 of everything really) systems all use it. A better one is the black potted 6 wire regulator. The only physical difference is the ground wire. Electrically it seems to be more reliable.

The first picture pictured is the Mercury clear potted regulator.

The second picture is the better, but harder to install 3 dollar bridge rectifier from Moser, or any electronics store. The RAD Shack version does not have high enough design ratings, but may work. This particular one is 35A at 200 V

The third picture is my hand written diagram of how to hook up the 3 dollar rectifier.

hope it helps
John

 

[pops]

Re: Replacement Rectifier

K, as I posted earlier, the grey rectifier you have is EXACTLY the same as the one on my 1995, 115 HP Mariner. It is original equipment and has never been changed. I, too, tried to come up with manufacturer or exact duplicate in aftermarket and was unsuccessful. All the replacements listed are the standard black 3-lug type.

Again, I was going to replace this grey rectifier, but the person "in the know" that I talked to said he had never replaced this grey rectifier on a motor, and the probable source of my charging and tach problems was the clear potted rectifier/regulator (the one that j_martin shows in picture #1). Upon inspection, the clear potting on this part from my motor shows a big brown burned spot.

I assume from the j_martin posts that the 16 amp system in my 1995 motor is why I have both the grey rectifier and the 5-wire clear potted regulator/rectifier.

My conclusion is the part you have in hand is for a 16 amp system that was standard on various Mercury/Mariner motors in the mid-late 90's.

 

[j_martin]

Re: Replacement Rectifier

K, as I posted earlier, the grey rectifier you have is EXACTLY the same as the one on my 1995, 115 HP Mariner. It is original equipment and has never been changed. I, too, tried to come up with manufacturer or exact duplicate in aftermarket and was unsuccessful. All the replacements listed are the standard black 3-lug type.

Again, I was going to replace this grey rectifier, but the person "in the know" that I talked to said he had never replaced this grey rectifier on a motor, and the probable source of my charging and tach problems was the clear potted rectifier/regulator (the one that j_martin shows in picture #1). Upon inspection, the clear potting on this part from my motor shows a big brown burned spot.

I assume from the j_martin posts that the 16 amp system in my 1995 motor is why I have both the grey rectifier and the 5-wire clear potted regulator/rectifier.

My conclusion is the part you have in hand is for a 16 amp system that was standard on various Mercury/Mariner motors in the mid-late 90's.

Now I'm curious.
kellysu,
The gray rectifier is probably a kosher replacement. It would wire, yellows to the ac terms, battery to the other one, tach to either yellow.


pops,
How are those components wired on your motor?

thanks
John

 

[pops]

Re: Replacement Rectifier

John, I don't have schematic, but yellow wires and grey wire from regulator apparently connect to grey rectifier ( yellow to end terminals and grey to middle terminal.

I just replaced regulator with CDI unit and tach now works, I assume alternator is charging battey, but haven't checked voltages yet.

I could never find a direct aftermarket replacement for grey rectifier, but apparently kelly got one at a dealer. My friend, who is pretty good on Mercury electronics, said not to worry about the grey unit. If I get charging voltage to the battery, I assume he was right.

 

[j_martin]

Re: Replacement Rectifier

I've seen shunt type regulators with one yellow, one red, and one black wire. The yellow goes to yellow, the red goes to red (center) and the black to ground.

Never seen a regulator with a grey wire unless it had two yellow and 1 or 2 red wires. On those, the yellow goes to the stator, the red(s) to battery, and the grey is a tach signal. If there is a black wire, it goes to ground.

John