replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

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Ciera2450

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

thanks captmello, I knew the idle relief port wasn't causing the slop in the drive, i was concerned the wrong transom shield was the culprit. Someone has drilled a relief hole on the port side of the shield to "rig" it to work.
Thanks for the link, I'll order up those bushings and post pics when I start tearing things apart later today.
Thanks again.
 

captmello

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

I've wondered in the past why a guy couldn't drill out a transom shield to accept different y pipes. They are the same with the exception of the idle relief ports.

I'll be interested in the bushing replacement. specifically around the steering yoke shaft. I've got quite a bit of play in my drive as well.
 

Ciera2450

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

captmello, the drilled hole appears to do the job, i don't overheat at all and water flows from the hole as well as starboard jhook hose.

I removed tranmission today and both bellows.
Got a good splash when I removed the drive bellows, so it was surely leaking
The ujoints appear in good shape....what do you guys think?
Also, notice in the pic of the PDS housing....there is a wear pattern around the inside circumference...is this normal? or are my PDS bearings bad and allowing movement thats causing this?

Will remove steering yoke tomorrow to replace bushings there.

bottomsidetransmission.jpgcloseupaftPDS.jpgPDSaftviewr.jpgujoints.jpg
 

captmello

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

grab the drive shaft and check for play, up, down, left, right. Any play and you may as well replace the bearings. If they are tight, you may be very lucky. However, if you are going to pull the motor, I would just change them anyway.

If the ujoints seem to move ok than you may be able to keep using them. Unlike the PDS bearings, you can change the ujoints anytime. Its up to you.

Keep up the good work!
 

Ciera2450

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Ciera2450

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

I was impatient and couldn't wait any longer. I've ordered all the parts (hopefully)
I ordered all the parts on my list in above post, and the bushings for the fork.
$250 worth of orings,washers,bushings and bellows!!! lol
I had exhaust bellows with the flapper to go in, but ordered another bellows without the flapper as i've been told its not necessary.

Do I need glue for the bellows? on both ends of both bellows?
they sell special glue for this....is there another option?
 

Ciera2450

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

transomshieldwithdriveremoved.jpg

Oh...removed the drive today!
Gonna clean it up and paint it while its apart.
Will dismantle the reverse mechanism and will need help diagnosing that......

boat looks funny now...
 

Ciera2450

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

Made a simple stand for the drive with a sawhorse and some scrap wood.
I soaked the whole drive in parts cleaner and have begun scrubbing with a scotchbrite pad and a toothbrush.
The two bolts beneath the shift cover that attach the int. housing to the lower unit are missing!!!!! both of them!!! Holy crap!
Anyone know the dimensions of these bolts? to order the actual part numbers is $50+ for two freakin bolts.....other options?

also attached pic of reverse latch pawls....how do they look?

boltsmissingint.housing.jpgreverselatchpawls.jpgoutdrivestand2.jpgoutdrive stand.jpg
 

Ciera2450

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

anyone have this bolt size? I really don't wanna pay fifty bucks for two bolts. i just spent a crapload on bushings and orings!


any ideas as to why these would be missing? I could see one rattling out but both of them?
BTW, the shift cover is absent(ordered new one already) but those bolts have never been there....I didn't realize they were missing or I would have never operated the boat.
 

captmello

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

I don't know the bolt size. Maybe you could check ebay and find a retailer that sells used parts and give them a call. They might be willing to sell you a couple bolts.

The retaining pawl looks okay in the pic. Was it not working correctly?

No glue needed on the bellows.;)
 

Ciera2450

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

Thanks captmello
No the retaining pawls did not work correctly. NOT at all infact, the drive kicked up everytime in reverse. I think the rod from the shifter (about 8"long) is bent. I'll post a pic of it and see what you guys think
thanks
 

PiratePast40

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

The retaining system and linkage needs to be adjusted according to the manual in order for it to work properly. Pay particular attention to the reassembly directions when it says to back off the locknuts to make sure parts will still pivot. Replacement springs may be in order and you can buy them in a kit: http://www.iboats.com/Volvo-Penta-Revers-Tilt-Lock-Springs/dm/*******.620594196--**********.708141752--view_id.269443

I know you're getting tired of being nickle and dimed to death on small parts, seals, and gaskets, but that's part of maintenance costs!

As far as the bolts for the intermediate to lower - I'm seeing them at a little over $15 each so you might want to shop around. The are an allen head bolt and may be stainless - I don't remember. In any case, it's best to get the right ones. You don't want to mess up any of the thread inserts on the drive.
 

Ciera2450

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

Thanks for the advice Pirate!
I have the manual and will adjust the reverse mechanism accordingly. I'm gonna take it apart, clean everything up and slap a coat of paint on em.
I'm gonna shop around tonight for those bolts. Jeez i just wanted to change the bellows. lol
 

Ciera2450

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

Found a guy who has the bolts...sending to me free, i just pay shipping! Sweet!
Am I safe to spraypaint the outdrive assembled but off the boat....of course taping off where bellows attach and water neck hole. Can I paint over all the bolts and such? Looks like they had paint on em at one time......If I can do this, are there Any areas to "watch out" for?
I'll be using rustoleum pro., should i use the aluminum primer as well? there are a few bare metal spots.
 

PiratePast40

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

I would only worry about primer in the places where it's down to bare metal. You're not going to be able to perfectly match the original color so it means you'll need to repaint everything in order for it to match. I've tried to find the original color but can't find the older off-white in a spray can any more. Moeller now makes the paint that Tempo used to, and they only have it in the newer and darker color. You might be able to find a paint shop that can exactly match the color and put it in a spray can for you, or you can pick up an inexpensive sprayer. In any case, it sure ups the price of changing the bellows doesn't it!

Don't feel too bad about getting more and more involved. You're seeing normal preventative and corrective maintenance costs that come with owning a boat.
 

Ciera2450

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

I'm not even gonna try to match the original color. I'm using gloss white rustoleom professional. Man its glossy! I painted the steering helmet already. I think I'll shoot the whole drive with primer because the bare spots are spread all over.....am i ok to paint over bolt heads and everything?
 

PiratePast40

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

Sure - just be aware that it may come off of the bolt heads first. Might as well have extra paint on hand for after you put the gearbox back on. My experience has been that the side gets scratched up during re-assembly.
 

Ciera2450

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

Thanks for the tip! I'll be sure to have some extra paint.
I used rustoleum aluminum primer just now. Its says 1-2hrs dry to touch, fully dry in 48hrs....do i have to wait 48hrs to paint?
 

Ciera2450

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

Heres a pic of the primer job....
I found that a tiny wire wheel attachment for my dremel worked great for cleaning all the crap off of the drive.It Reached into all the nooks and crannys well. Thats where most of the corrosion and buildup was located.
I also used 400grit wet/dry sandpaper and scrubbed the whole thing down with it and a lil bit of water.
Then, I soaked the whole drive with purple power and scrubbed it again with a green scotchbrite pad and a toothbrush to get into the "odd" areas.
Rinsed thoroughly.
Final prep step was wiping the whole thing down with acetone....Twice.
figured I could paint it while i'm waiting for parts.......

Dunno if all the prep will be worth it, but its looking much better with just primer!!!
Need to know if I can paint tonight......
 

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captmello

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Re: replacing 280 bellows and ujoint

Your drive looks good. I wish I would have painted my outdrive when I had it torn apart a couple years ago...
 
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