Replacing distributor, what are my options?

[captainlefevre]

I have been the beneficiary of many threads on this site and I lament that my first post will be something not too interesting.
I was attempting to adjust the timing on my 1977 Carver Santa Cruz with an OMC/Ford 351 but I found that the distributor would not turn. So I took a pry bar and tried to lift it, but...surprise...I ended up cracking the distributor. I tried JB weld but it really can't be fixed. All direct replacements are very expensive, so I hope I can install a different distributor. The original is a Prestolite d3JL-12100-c / IBM 7008. What can I replace it with? The auto stores have a lot of non-marinized alternatives for a Ford 351, and ebay has a lot of new marinized distributors but I don't know how close I have to stick to the original.

Thanks!
Michael

 

[Scott Danforth]

Go on summit racing's website and get you a new Mallory marine distributor

 

[fhhuber]

Definitively:

Get a marine rated distributor. Its for increased resistance to causing an explosion.

 

[captainlefevre]

Explosions are bad. OK so no auto stuff, but the Mallory distributors on summit racing are $200 and aren't advertised as marinized. My question is really, how do I determine what marine rated distributors will fit my 351? Has anyone made a cross-reference list to replace OEM distributors?

 

[Scott Danforth]

It has to be a Mallory Marine distributor. They are about $320 and they do say marine. Do not, I repeat do not use an automotive distributor in a boat unless you like sitting on an explosion.

Your original distributor was most likely a prestolite which is the parrent company of Mallory.

Summit racing's site is the easiest site in the world to get the right part. Simply do a search for Mallory marine 351 distributor. About 6 will come up. Some for RH motors, some for LH motors, some with points, some with hall-effect triggers and some with magnetic triggers.

If your boat is a single screw, get the magnetic triggered unit for LH (standard rotation )

 

[captainlefevre]

Got it, thank you. It seems like what I need is out of stock at Summit, but can be found elsewhere. But, supposing I didn't want to spend $300-400, I found a direct replacement on ebay for $125.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/301837431562?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

This is not a performance boat, and someday I will probably repower it entirely. Any harm/shame in buying the used part above? What will I be missing out on by not buying a new Mallory?

 

[fhhuber]

unsure actual condition...

Could be fine. Could have the bearings worn out or other issues.

Buying used on E-Bay is kind of like betting black or red on the roulette wheel.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Buying used is ok, however expect to put in New module, trigger assembly, cap, rotor, and the bushings mentioned above.

For example, I needed a new ignition module for my original prestolite distributor for my Volvo 5.7 liter. New module was over $500, New distributor I could get parts for was $309.

It has nothing to do with performance, it has to do with economics. Most times new with warranty is less expensive than used and having to rebuild

 

[captainlefevre]

So I split the difference... bought this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111803603687?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

New in box Sierra version of the Mallory, on ebay for $200. Thanks for the advice! This way I don't have to replace the components.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Is the old dist set up with vacuum?
​Does the new require it?
Pics?

 

[captainlefevre]

No Title

I don't have a pic of the old dist as it's on the boat still but for now can send you a pic of the new one. Both have the vacuum advance hole plugged, so mechanical advance only.