replacing rotted deck

[jef18]

hey all, new here! I just found this site about a month ago when trying to do a little research on replacing a deck. GREAT site!!! Found alot of info on this subject, but since im kind of new to boating and rebuilding i thought i should start a new thread. from what ive read, this shouldnt be to hard to do for a guy who works with tools all day. Although i work with metal i hope wood wont be too hard! Well I picked up a 1960 14ft starcraft the other day from my uncle and when i looked under the seats i found a 12" x 12" hole that was rotted out! So curiosity got the best of me and the next thing i know im taking the deck and the rotted stringers out! But anyway, there are a few things im not sure what to do about....

-What do you use to sand the old fiberglass off that held the stringers down?
-How much sanding should i do?
-Im thinking about using composite for stringers. Is this ok?

Ill try and add some pictures to match what im talking about. Any help would be greatly appriciated!! Im sure Ill be asking alot more questions as i get deeper into this project! Especially when I start glassing!! Thanks!

 

[ml8163]

Re: replacing rotted deck

Hey jef18,

Welcome to iboats!! I can answer some of your questions. I a lot of other folks should chime in shortly with the other answers.

1 - Mark the location of the stringers before you remove them.

2 - Remove the stringer and core. For sanding the old fiberglass off, get yourself a 4 1/2 inch grinder to cut the tabbing at the core/hull joint. Do not cut into the hull laminate. Save any large pieces of core you remove if they can be used as pattern to help fit the new core. Measure the thickness of the fiberglass skin so you can duplicate it.

3 - From what I've read on this forum, it is recommended to use a marine grade (hard to find and expensive) or outdoor grade 3/4" plywood for your replacement stringers. This will be stronger than a solid piece of wood. Fit a new piece of core material to fit the size and shape of the core in the removed stringer.

4 - Prepare the surfaces for bonding. All surfaces should be clean, dry and sanded. Remove any traces of contamination by wiping the surface with solvent and drying with paper towels before the solvent evaporates. Use a degreaser or detergent in areas that may be contaminated with gasoline or oil residue before wiping with solvent. Use a stiff nylon bristle brush on heavily textured surfaces like roving. Abrade the bonding surfaces by sanding with 50-grit sandpaper and brush the area freee of dust or loose material. Use a wire brush to abrade heavily textured surfaces. The bonding surface shoudl appear dull.

Hope this helps. I've been doing a lot of research on this subject, as I am in the same boat (no pun intended) as you! See my post here => http://forums.iboats.com/newreply.php?do=newreply&noquote=1&p=1602167

Oh yea - get yourself a good resperator and prepared to get itchy and really dusty.

 

[salty87]

Re: replacing rotted deck

welcome to the party, jef18!

you'll need an angle grinder that'll probably barely survive the job..harbor freight time. don't forget the respirator, maybe a tyvek suit, goggles, the whole deal.

how much sanding...as much as you can take. the better your glassing skills, the less of your own work you get to grind. by the time you're done glassing stringers, you'll probably have covered all exposed hull surface in new glass so it all needs to be ground down.

composite stringers?...i still have a brochure laying around my house...prisma/compsys. good ole plywood and poly resin isn't exactly cheap. if your wallet can take it, it's gotta be better than the plywood sealed with resin and covered with glass route.

 

[oops!]

Re: replacing rotted deck

welcome aboard....

for someone that knows how to use a tool ...the jobs not too hard.....

just make sure you cover any young childrens ears...when the langauge starts flying....

ml8 wrote a really good post......lots of info there......personally i use pressure treated plywood....it can sit in water for 40 years and not rot.
however it must be dry...really dry to accept the resin.
and the solvent is acetone...

composits ....as salty said...are really pricey......so unless you own the company you work at.......

lots of help here..... post when you bun in to a brick wall.

cheers
oops

 

[jef18]

Re: replacing rotted deck

Thanks for all the help guys!! ive been caught up at work for a few days and I havent had a chance to reply! Well as promised here are a few pics.... I may have to post one pic at a time because i dont know how to post multiples in one post.

 

[jef18]

Re: replacing rotted deck

 

[azlakes]

Re: replacing rotted deck

hi jef,

you say you work with metals, did you craft that metal transom plate for your uncle or was that already on the boat?

 

[Coors]

Re: replacing rotted deck

Any new wood installed needs to be in -cased in 2 part; I say epoxy, Oops says fiberglass, hehe.
But it needs to be sealed.

 

[oops!]

Re: replacing rotted deck

ya know jef....

i was just re-looking at this one....

what a great project as a first one....not too hard...just the basics....great project.

you might want to take a core sample of that transom.....just to make sure its sound.

and coors is right...the peices you replace need to be sealed...(presonally, id glass it...)

but whatever the product you choose....just make sure it isnt a standard out door deck waterproofer...

its hard work...messy....dusty...but when your done youll have a boat you love.

cheers
oops

 

[jef18]

Re: replacing rotted deck

Hey Guys! azlakes, Yes I did make that plate. Its out of 1/4" aluminum plate. He refinished the outsisde of the boat and kind of hurried thru doing the stringers and deck because of lack of space. he used 3/8 regular plywood for the deck. and junk wood for the stringers. I decided to replace everything after he told me he just slapped everythig together. How would I go about taking samples from the transom? You guys probably answer these questions all the time and I apologize! I will post pics of the progress as soon as I get some extra cash. And thanks for the info on the glassing!

 

[Coors]

Re: replacing rotted deck

Drill into it from the inside-you want dry, white shavings.