I am going to replace my cam seals on my 1982 Mercruiser 470. I am ordering the parts tomorrow and will probably start disassembly this weekend, and re-assembly next week, after the parts arrive. But I have a couple of questions first.
I have had water only in the engine now for a week-and-a-half, -no rust inhibitors, etc. (I'll be draining it shortly anyway). Is that a rust problem? If I drain it and it sits empty for a week is that a worry?
The instructions at http://www.sterndrives.com/470information/470coolantleakrepair.html are great, but at one point it says "You will also need a way to press out the old seals and a way to carefully press the new seals into place without warping or cracking the timing cover." I am imagining I can make a puller and installer with some bolts, nuts, big washers, etc., but any suggestions would be helpful. (I like natemoore's homemade tools at http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=353035 Great stuff).
I DO NOT want to remove the engine. That's more than I can handle right now. This repair will be done on the covered boat lift. I will have enough clearance for rotor
removal, etc. (with a little creativity...). My concern is the oil pan gasket. Is it really THAT much of a critical issue? I can be very patient and careful when razor-blading the gasket for release, but the instructions make it seem darn-near impossible. Is it possible? What's the best gasket sealer to use when putting it back together.
It says: "Coat the nose of the crankshaft with a thin film of Perfect Seal." before installing the rotor back onto the crankshaft? That's the sticky gasket sealer stuff...Is this correct?
Thanks for any help. I'll take pics as I go.
I have had water only in the engine now for a week-and-a-half, -no rust inhibitors, etc. (I'll be draining it shortly anyway). Is that a rust problem? If I drain it and it sits empty for a week is that a worry?
The instructions at http://www.sterndrives.com/470information/470coolantleakrepair.html are great, but at one point it says "You will also need a way to press out the old seals and a way to carefully press the new seals into place without warping or cracking the timing cover." I am imagining I can make a puller and installer with some bolts, nuts, big washers, etc., but any suggestions would be helpful. (I like natemoore's homemade tools at http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=353035 Great stuff).
I DO NOT want to remove the engine. That's more than I can handle right now. This repair will be done on the covered boat lift. I will have enough clearance for rotor
removal, etc. (with a little creativity...). My concern is the oil pan gasket. Is it really THAT much of a critical issue? I can be very patient and careful when razor-blading the gasket for release, but the instructions make it seem darn-near impossible. Is it possible? What's the best gasket sealer to use when putting it back together.
It says: "Coat the nose of the crankshaft with a thin film of Perfect Seal." before installing the rotor back onto the crankshaft? That's the sticky gasket sealer stuff...Is this correct?
Thanks for any help. I'll take pics as I go.