Replacing Transom

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outonbizniz

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 12, 2002
Messages
128
Re: Replacing Transom

BAR...Did you just buy this boat? From the large metal plat on the transom I'd guess it had been getting weak. Seacast is not meant to be used with most of the transom wood still intact. It is meant to replace the transom entirely. Try <br /> Rot Doctor CPES <br />for a way to replace just part of the wood. I don't know how well CPES works (noone I know has ever tried it). With your boats design cutting the top off the transom would work best. Then use a long drill bit to mulch up the wood (if it's in bad shap this should be easy). Then shop vac it out. Seacast needs a outer and inner skin (which you have). Therefor, It would be easily to use in your case. My inner skin is non-existent so I will have a lot more work.
 
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Saperry

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Nov 13, 2001
Messages
99
Re: Replacing Transom

Step 1.<br />Removed motor. <br /><br />Step 2. <br />Removed all compatment covers, livewell covers, seats, drain tubes, etc. Anything that went from top cap to bottm hull. fuel filler hose,<br />sending unit wires, livewell drains, bilge pump, areater pumps, transducers, etc.<br /><br />Step 3.<br />Removed the rub rail. Just pull out he rubber insert and drill out rivits. Then I had to drill out the rivits that were under rub rail. The only place the top cap and bottom hull were fiber glassed together was between the back of the top cap and the front side of the transom at the motor well. I broke was was left of it loose with a long flat cold chisel.<br /><br />Step 4. <br />I removed the top cap with two cable come-alongs. One above the rear deck and one above the front deck. I mounted them to the ceiling joists in my garage with a short piece of chain and two<br />3 1/2" lag bolts each. I lifted the top cap high enough to clear the hull pulled the hull and trailer from underneath. Then I becked a 16' flat bead trailer underneath the top cap and lowed it on to the trailer. Coved it with a tarp and drove it to a friends house out of the way. (he has a welding shop and plenty of room). Then I put the hull back in my garage on the trailer. The pic that "top cap out of the way ready to go to work shows what the hull looked like with the top cap removed. The only thing left was the fuel tank that I drained and removed.<br /><br />Step 5.<br />Next took detailed measuremnts of everything. Floor and Transom Hieght, Width, Location, Thickness etc. I ended up with about 5 pages of drawings and measurements in a spirial notebook. Probably more than I needed but I would rather have them and not need them, than need them and not have them.<br /><br />Step 6.<br />I used a sawz-all,skill saw, handsaw, chisel, and prybar to cut fiberglass flotaion foam boxes from front corners of transom. Cut inner fiberglass and braces from front of transom. Cut, saw, chisel, pry and cuss old floor up.<br /><br />Step 7.<br />Took more measurents of stringer system and started cuttin out stringers. The are all rotten ant the glass is about all holding them. Well the glass and foam. The foam is a pain to get out. It is hard to get a large piece to come up. I used a short handled trenching shovel last night and it worked best so far. I have about half of the stringers and foam removed.<br /><br />I hope this helps....<br />Any suggestions or ideas will not fall on deaf ears. When this project is finihed I will have replaced the transom/floor of one boat in my life.<br />So I don't have all the answers or even all the questions. I will continue to post on this thread untill I finish. My goal right now is to be on the water by 4th of July.
 
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outonbizniz

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 12, 2002
Messages
128
Re: Replacing Transom

That's quite a goal SA!!!<br /><br />My goal is for my boat to make it to the water. PERIOD! <br /><br />BarBQ...SA went into the Long version that is quite close to what I've had to do so far. At first look I wasn't sure that you'd have to pop the top off your hull. Oops
 
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Franki

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Feb 16, 2002
Messages
1,059
Re: Replacing Transom

I have thought about this long and hard.. <br />if I can find a seacast supplier in Aust, I will be using that.. (I don't like the idea of fungus growing in the transom, regardless if its still strong or not.)<br /><br />1. cut top fg skin on transom off with angle grinder.<br />2. use fence post drill to drill out old wood. (fence post drills are about 2.5 feet long and about an inch around.)<br />3. fill transom with seacast or equiv to about 2 inchs from top.<br />4. Insert 1.5 x 2 inch box section stainless steel accross top of transom sitting on the seacast. (can get it for free so why not.) then top up and fill gaps with seacast.. <br /><br />That way I won't need to worry about my oversized outboard flexing the transom...<br /><br />my stringers were not in good nick, but not that bad either, so I soaked them over a period of weeks with industrial paint.. well and truely sealed.. then I got two huge jarrah 6x4 beams and bolted them alongside each stringer. and smothered the lot in a heap more paint. (got 8 liters of the stuff for free so why not?)<br /><br />Jarrah is alot stronger and harder then marine ply and would last for years longer.. (years and years and years longer.) you can't nail this stuff without drilling first(and the drilling is hard too.) so I suspect that the strength of the stringers is no longer an issue for me.. <br /><br />bolted the floor back on (mine was never glassed in.) and left it at that.. its very strong. (I did all that because I was contemplating to converting to inboard at one stage.)<br /><br />anyway, as you can see, I don't usually follow the rules, I sort of make my own, never failed me before, so I quietly confident it won't now.<br /><br />Incidently, I am emailing seacast to see if they have some distributer in Australia.<br /><br />will post the answer if I get one so terryc can perhaps get some too.<br /><br />rgds<br /><br />frank
 
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Saperry

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Nov 13, 2001
Messages
99
Re: Replacing Transom

Well it has been a week or so since my last post so I will update.<br /><br />Step 8 (cutting new transom)<br />After I cleaned all of the old stringers and foam out I drew a vertical line on the inside of the transom area @ centerline. This was on the inside of the outter fiberglass shell. I used a framing square and then drew vertical lines 3" apart all the way across the transom.<br /><br />I then laid out a sheeet of plywood with lines just like ones on the inside of the transom. I used these lines to transfer the height of the transom to the plywood. I added 1/4" to the measurements. I smoothed out the edges of the lines and cut out the piece for transom. I cut the bottom edge at a slight angle because the transom angles backwards.<br /><br />Check it for fit....trim some...Check for fit...<br />trim some etc. untill it fits right<br /><br />That is about where I am now...<br /><br />Trying to figure the best way to lay out the curve for the stringers...<br /><br />Anyone have Ideas?<br /><br />Sean
 
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Franki

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Feb 16, 2002
Messages
1,059
Re: Replacing Transom

sure.... I'll say it.. someone has to...<br /><br />Thats a mighty big johnson you have there...<br /><br />I'm jealose,, I only have a 100HP....<br /><br />So I guess you win the "yours is bigger then mine" contest. :) :) :) <br /><br />looks like your project is coming along well.<br /><br />rgds<br /><br />Frank
 
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