Required Gauges?

rost495

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 10, 2005
Messages
109
Trying to get the 21 CC Hydrasport up and running.

Short scoop-- 93 200 hp Johnson. Bought the boat, has a tach and voltmeter and fuel guage.
I don't want stuff I don't need, will be looking at a trim gauge, and a temp gauge and water pressure gauge. IF I have a temp gauge do I need the water pressure gauge?
And the temp gauges come without senders and one requiring to buy a sender. I can buy the sender, is it easy to find where to stick it on the motor?? IE a hole already, just pull a plug and put the sensor in? OR do I buy the one that doesn't require a sensor(have no clue how that would work)

Any other input is welcome.

Basically a big bay boat and sometimes offshore to about 20 miles max maybe.
PS I do have a GPS/finder, and a VHF with GPS and a Danforth compass already.

Thanks, JEff
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,771
Re: Required Gauges?

You have three essential gauges. As for a trim gauge, I feel its a useless gauge since you can turn your head and see whether the engine is trimmed or not. Some will argue that its nice to just set the trim to a specific spot on the gauge which was where the boat ran best. But that's only a valid observation if the boat is "always" loaded the same. The seat of your pants and the tach will tell you what the best trim setting is. A water pressure gauge AND temp gauge are essential in my view. Just because you have water pressure does not mean the engine is not overheating so the gauges monitor totally different parameters. How the sender mounts depends on what you buy and whether or not any water jacket ports (plugs) are available or not. You do need to make sure the sender and the gauge are matched or you will get ultra low or very high readings. Just follow the instructions supplied with the gauge.
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,771
Re: Required Gauges?

You have three essential gauges. As for a trim gauge, I feel its a useless gauge since you can turn your head and see whether the engine is trimmed or not. Some will argue that its nice to just set the trim to a specific spot on the gauge which was where the boat ran best. But that's only a valid observation if the boat is "always" loaded the same. The seat of your pants and the tach will tell you what the best trim setting is. A water pressure gauge AND temp gauge are essential in my view. Just because you have water pressure does not mean the engine is not overheating so the gauges monitor totally different parameters. How the sender mounts depends on what you buy and whether or not any water jacket ports (plugs) are available or not. You do need to make sure the sender and the gauge are matched or you will get ultra low or very high readings. Just follow the instructions supplied with the gauge. The one other piece of very useful electronics is a fuel flow monitor such as a Navman 2100 or similar unit. It works like the fuel computer in your car. It provides a far more accurate measure of fuel use than a fuel gauge which notoriously inaccurate.
 

rost495

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 10, 2005
Messages
109
Re: Required Gauges?

Ok water temp and water pressure gauge. Got that. But the temp one- buy without sensor or buy one and sensor? How do I find out about the port availability? Dollar wise its probably about the same..... without is more expensive. using a sensor is cheaper but have to buy the sensor?

Thanks for heads up on trim-- I had the same thoughts you typed, but got stupid. Can save that money.

Fuel flow I'm gonna have to look into some. Will typically be carrying spare fuel for offshore anyway.

Thanks tons!!! Wished the email alert worked.

Jeff
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,771
Re: Required Gauges?

Don't worry too much about port availability. The sender will probably come with a "Z" shaped bracket that the sender screws into. The bracket then gets bolted to the cylinder head and is therefore in contact with it so it essentially becomes a head temperature gauge. You may even want one on each head. You then add a switch that allows you switch from one sensor to the other so you don't need two gauges. Buy the gauge and the sender from the same manufacturer.
 
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