Restoration project

[gextyr1]

Re: Restoration project

I'll try to post more detailed pictures of the floor, but yeah, that is similar. The one thing that has been bugging me while cleaning all the crud out of the hull is the ribs don't let water flow all the way out. Now, that isn't a huge problem, it just means that water can sit down in between these ribs, under the floor for a long time. As I mentioned before, the wooden floor was not originally glassed to the hull, it simply sat on the stringers (found a few old rusty screws that held it down) and vinyl stripping where the wood meets the hull. The wood didn't go all the way to the bow (just enough room for your feet) or the stern (it was open under the splash well).<br /><br />Regarding the steering wheel: I may just replace all of the steering components if I have to put a new motor on it. Over the next few weeks I'm going to determine if the old Johnson Fat-50 is servicable.

 

[gextyr1]

Re: Restoration project

<br />The ribs in the hull's interior have a whole lot of cracks. It still seems structurally sound... the fiberglass is extremely thick and sturdy. Is this something I should worry about? I can easily patch the worst of these, but should I worry about water sitting in these cracks? The ribs tend to hold water in (as I found while hosing out the hull.)<br /><br />

<br />Regarding previous posts, here is the floor. You may not be able to tell from this picture (see the next one) but the stringers are not at the same level. They are attached with bolts that look like they are epoxied to the hull. I am probably going to have to remove them when I repair the transom.<br /><br />

<br />As mentioned above, the stringers are through-bolted to the transom here at different heights.<br /><br />

<br />Another quick question: How should I go about dealing with this. There are a lots of stress/age cracks in the gelcoat on the topshell. I was thinking of just grinding these out and using bondo or something similar (since I'm painting it anyway.) I was considering trying to buff out the gelcoat with a polishing compound, but there are simply too many holes and cracks.

 

[Terry Olson]

Re: Restoration project

One advantage to securing the new floor with screws is that you can remove it from time to time for inspection, repairs, or replacement. You won't be able to do this if you secure it with adhesive and glass it in around the edges - although doing so would make it stronger. You mentioned that you don't intend to carpet it, but if you change your mind and use this method you can simply wrap the carpet to the back side of the floor and install it for a very nice finished appearance. <br /><br />I'd do as you are suggesting and build up the side stringers so that all three are supporting the floor. You may want to add aluminum "L" brackets around the perimiter at the same height to support the edges of the floor too. This should add some strength without much increase in weight. With adequate support you can use a thinner flooring material - and that's where weight savings can be found.<br /><br />The holes and cracks will have to be reglassed for a lasting repair. Check some of the fiberglass boat sites for more information on the best way to make these repairs.