I think you're right - someone hosed you on the last water pump rebuild. That loose retainer plate has been wearing for a long time. I'd replace the retaining plate and check for any other loose bolts. Your snapped bolt is probably corroded in and will probably be very difficult to remove. Drill the largest hole possible in the remaining bolt. Be carefull you don't snap off the easy-out - they are real hard to drill out. You may need to drill the entire bolt out (or have a shop drill it out) and replace with a thread insert. I'd also replace the exhaust gasket since you already have it pulled apart. As for the anode: remove it, scrape the paint off of it (paint remover?) sand the surface and reinstall it. You need anodes in fresh water too.
Sorry about your setbacks - at least you know you needed the new water pump impeller and that's done right now.
Todd
BTW the bolt I need is number 76 in post #504... went to Evinrude site to price.. $40:facepalm:
... FOR ONE BOLT!!! At least the exhaust gasket is more manageable at 8 bucks. And DEF not going through manufacturers site... well if I can manage not to
Ok was again looking at the parts. My motor has a 20inch shaft... which would make it a "long" shaft motor I'm thinking as standard in an Evinrude would be 15". If this is the case then the bolt is only $21 not $40. So am i correct in my thinking that anything over the 15" shaft length is considered a "long" model?
Appreciate it mark! I was just looking at their prices... At least my motor is a long shaft and it cuts the price of that bolt down 50%... $40 dollars for a bolt is RIDICULOUSYep, long (L) 20" or extra long (XL) 25".....
You cannot actually purchase anything from the BRP site anyway.....that must be done through a dealer, try boats dot net or crowley marine.....
Shipwrecked marine would probably sell you one for a couple bucks. Remember you still have to pay shipping on that.
Hey, if it makes you feel better about your bolt, I just paid $35 for a tilt pin for my 15HP. Friggin' metal pin with a plastic clasp on it. :facepalm:
Hey, if it makes you feel better about your bolt, I just paid $35 for a tilt pin for my 15HP. Friggin' metal pin with a plastic clasp on it. :facepalm:
I just found one of those in my boat. Looked on my kicker and yea I should probably use it.:redface:
Thanks Todd.... Sounds like you had a great time and I am quite jealous sir! If that bolt hadn't broke it'd be a different story. Bought an easy out and some PB blaster this weekend. I'll start spraying and tapping the bolt to let it creep and set in real good before i try removing and we'll see what happens. I'll keep ya updated. REALLY dont want to have to take it to a machine shop to get removed :facepalm:Yes, the trim tab should be another anode. It should be cleaned to be able to make contact with the water and the engine (bolt) in order to protect the OB, just like the other painted one. I didn't know about prop hub cooling, either.
I just returned from three days on the water in my boat. Spent one night on the boat and even caught a fish (for a little while, anyway). Had a great time, boat ran fine (will hit 35 when trimmed properly), but now my office chair is swaying back and forth a bit.
That's just a little incentive for you to float yours.
Todd
Don't mess with it. Run fresh 87-89 gas with 50:1 TCW-3 rated 2-stroke oil. If the gas is going to be sitting for a month or more, treat it.