Results of my first molded hatch lid

CarTuner

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 1, 2008
Messages
36
After doing a fair amount of reading on this forum and others, I decided that I was going to mold some hatch covers for the new deck I'm putting in my 1988 Donzi R-23. So naturally, I made a test piece to try out the process and see what would happen, before I get too deep.

Well let me tell you, it couldn't have turned out better. I'm super happy with the results of this first test piece. I made the mold using the following:

- 12"x24" white melamine covered particleboard (basically, a white shelf bought from HD)
- a length of plastic baseboard (also from HD)
- some wood putty
- clear lacquer spray
- nail gun

I cut the baseboard to length in order to make the 4 side walls. These walls were nailed onto the melamine slab and to each other. The inside corners were then filled with wood putty and a 1/4" round pipe was used to radius the corners. After the putty was dry, a light sanding cleaned up any rough edges. Once that was done, a few coats of clear lacquer spray were applied. When the clear lacquer was dry, the mold was ready.

I first applied 3 coats of carnuba paste wax. Afterwards, I sprayed on a couple coats of PVA mold release (using the $15 gravity feed spray gun I got from Harbor Freight). After the PVA was dry, I applied the first coat of unwaxed polyester resin. I added white pigment to this first coat, and brushed it on lightly so I wouldn't tear the PVA film. I then added a layer of light cloth (maybe 6oz? I don't know) and resin, then a layer of 1.5oz mat and resin, a piece of 1/2" plywood for a core, then a final layer of 1.5oz mat and waxed resin.

Once the piece hardened fully, I popped it out of the mold. I set up the fence on my table saw and cut the flanges to 5/8" length.

The surface finish turned out super smooth and glossy. I had some runs in the PVA (I applied it too thick and too fast) and those showed up in the final product (but they're barely noticeable). That's why this was a test piece :)

Some observations I made:

- need to spray the PVA in lighter coats in order to build it up
- waiting for the first layer of pigmented resin to become tacky before applying the first layer of cloth worked great to avoid any print through of the pattern
- 1/2" plywood core is WAY too thick for something of this size. The piece is super strong and stiff. A 1/4" core would have been just fine.
- The edges of the wood core need to be rounded in order for the mat to be able to lay flat and not lift at the edges.
 

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oops!

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
12,932
Re: Results of my first molded hatch lid

thats great...

glad it turned out good.

one thing.....

polyester resin is very brittle.....as a outer layer on a mold.....it will crack.
instead of pigmented resin......use gellcoat.
gellcoat is more than pigmented resin...it will allow the flex you need on a hatch cover and give years of life to the part.
 

jonesg

Admiral
Joined
Feb 22, 2008
Messages
7,198
Re: Results of my first molded hatch lid

If the lid starts to warp its because the ply should be sectioned into smaller peices, humidity will get to it through the resin. The good news is you have a mold so just pop another one.

"- The edges of the wood core need to be rounded in order for the mat to be able to lay flat and not lift at the edges. "

Easier still unless you have a router table..., apply resin putty around the edge of the wood , then resin and push the glass into it, I would still knock the 4 90deg corners off.
 

CarTuner

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 1, 2008
Messages
36
Re: Results of my first molded hatch lid

Thanks for the feedback everybody.

I do have a router table, so rounding the edges of the core wood won't be a problem.

I'm wondering about the outer surface having a problem with the resin cracking. Is that because I didn't place a layer of cloth with the first layer of resin?

Playing devil's advocate here for a second....what about when somebody covers their newly installed plywood deck with mat/cloth and resin. Isn't the top/last coat of resin prone to cracking, just like my molded hatch lid? Not everybody puts gelcoat on their new deck. Some don't even paint or fair it.

Would the solution be to install a very thin layer of cloth with the surface layer of resin? (thus giving it some strength so it doesn't crack)
 
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