Reviving 1956 Evinrude Fleetwin 7.5 - Pressure Tank Issue

[Hofzer]

I recently rescued a '56 Evinrude Fleetwin from my parents barn. It has been stored in nice dry place indoors. From the boat registration, it looks at though it has not run since at least 1990.

I have the pressure tank, but the hoses are crumbling, ant the pump (pushrod not button) has so little travel (barely perceptable) that I think it is no good. Plus, I'm not able to build up any pressure.

From what I've read from you wonderful folks her, and elsewhere, it's probably best to convert the engine to use the modern single-line style tank.

However, as this thing hasn't run in twenty years, I don't want to making any changes until I atleast know it is running. Otherwise, trouble-shooting will be a real chore.

I'm wondering what you folks think of my stratagy for taking care of the above issues" I plan on purchasing a modern style tank and line, anc connecting the line to the fuel side of the connector to the engine. Then I will place the gas tank above the level of the outboard, prime it, and start trying to get the thing running.

Is there any reason this should not work for providing sufficient gas to the carb?

Also, knowing my family, and since the spark plugs were only finger tight when I removed them, it appears the cylinders were fogged, and the engine appears very clean execpt for the 20 years of dust on the cowling.

If anyone has any other suggestions for me --in the best interests of this classic outboard -- prior to trying to fire this up, I'd love to hear them. So far I have only sprayed some fogging oil in the cylinders, changed the plugs, and turned the engine over a few times.

Thanks in advance.

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: Reviving 1956 Evinrude Fleetwin 7.5 - Pressure Tank Issue

I recently rescued a '56 Evinrude Fleetwin from my parents barn. It has been stored in nice dry place indoors. From the boat registration, it looks at though it has not run since at least 1990.

I have the pressure tank, but the hoses are crumbling, ant the pump (pushrod not button) has so little travel (barely perceptable) that I think it is no good. Plus, I'm not able to build up any pressure.

From what I've read from you wonderful folks her, and elsewhere, it's probably best to convert the engine to use the modern single-line style tank.

However, as this thing hasn't run in twenty years, I don't want to making any changes until I atleast know it is running. Otherwise, trouble-shooting will be a real chore.

I'm wondering what you folks think of my stratagy for taking care of the above issues" I plan on purchasing a modern style tank and line, anc connecting the line to the fuel side of the connector to the engine. Then I will place the gas tank above the level of the outboard, prime it, and start trying to get the thing running.

Is there any reason this should not work for providing sufficient gas to the carb?

Also, knowing my family, and since the spark plugs were only finger tight when I removed them, it appears the cylinders were fogged, and the engine appears very clean execpt for the 20 years of dust on the cowling.

If anyone has any other suggestions for me --in the best interests of this classic outboard -- prior to trying to fire this up, I'd love to hear them. So far I have only sprayed some fogging oil in the cylinders, changed the plugs, and turned the engine over a few times.

Thanks in advance.

You should be able to gravity feed it. Al you're trying to do is fill up the carburetor bowl full of fuel.

Run it with the lower end submerged in a barrel or trashcan full of water, or that old rubber water pump impeller may crumble to pieces on you.

Here is a thread full of pointers on how to revive the motor from its sleep:
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=158086

The FAQ section is here:
http://forums.iboats.com/forumdisplay.php?f=31

Another one here:
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=299680

The tune-up parts are available here at iboats. They commonly need coils, points and condensers, as well as the impeller. All are here for the 7.5 hp

 

[Hofzer]

Re: Reviving 1956 Evinrude Fleetwin 7.5 - Pressure Tank Issue

The tune-up parts are available here at iboats. They commonly need coils, points and condensers, as well as the impeller. All are here for the 7.5 hp

You seem to be right on with that one. I only have a spark in one cylinder. . . .

The gravity method did get me gas in both cylinders. So, at least I've made some progress.

 

[lindy46]

Re: Reviving 1956 Evinrude Fleetwin 7.5 - Pressure Tank Issue

I'd check compression before investing any money in the motor. If you have compression, most any other issues can be addressed.

 

[jmendoza]

Re: Reviving 1956 Evinrude Fleetwin 7.5 - Pressure Tank Issue

Here is a link to Tom's old outboard pages and articles on these engines, even howto use a single line tank and Mikuni diaphragm pump.
http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repair.com/Default.htm

I got mine running with a fuel bottle hanging off the garage door. The carb needed cleaning, had to remove the freeze plug to get at the low speed circuit. I bought a new set of coils, water pump impeller, new float, and carb kit from IBoats. See picture:

 

[Fuzzytbay]

Re: Reviving 1956 Evinrude Fleetwin 7.5 - Pressure Tank Issue

I'd bet the coils are done in. Take off the cover, I think on yours there is an inspection cover, on the flywheel, which is not big enough to do much more than set the points, you can view the coils. If they are "semi transperent" or look cracked, or you can see "black burns' on them, they need to be replaced. Coils can be found at napa for this motor, and are only about 25.00 each.

 

[Hofzer]

Re: Reviving 1956 Evinrude Fleetwin 7.5 - Pressure Tank Issue

I got mine running with a fuel bottle hanging off the garage door. The carb needed cleaning, had to remove the freeze plug to get at the low speed circuit. I bought a new set of coils, water pump impeller, new float, and carb kit from IBoats. See picture:

All of these may be in my near future.

I'd bet the coils are done in. Take off the cover, I think on yours there is an inspection cover, on the flywheel, which is not big enough to do much more than set the points, you can view the coils. If they are "semi transperent" or look cracked, or you can see "black burns' on them, they need to be replaced. Coils can be found at napa for this motor, and are only about 25.00 each.

I'm going to check for a spark again tonight, using the known good plug, and inspect the coils per Fuzzytbay's instructions. My broad daylight attempt yesterday, with one arm pulling the cord, was less than scientific. I have experince rebuilding carbs (I bought a motorcycle from someone who thought, instead of gaskets, silcone would work great to seal a carb - his loss, my gain), and would like to start there (plus an impeller) if I can. Pulling a flywheel is a whole new ball of wax, but probably necessary.

That reminds me. Currently the engine has the old champion c6j plugs. I see alot of conflicting information on what plugs to use: Chamption is great, champion is horrible, etc. Any suggestions?

 

[Fuzzytbay]

Re: Reviving 1956 Evinrude Fleetwin 7.5 - Pressure Tank Issue

That reminds me. Currently the engine has the old champion c6j plugs. I see alot of conflicting information on what plugs to use: Chamption is great, champion is horrible, etc. Any suggestions?

I run Champion J6C's on all my old rudes 57 7.5 hp Fleetwin, 62 28hp Speeditwin, and 64 20hp johnson. Its a fact, that on these motors, plugs will last a season, (if your lucky)

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: Reviving 1956 Evinrude Fleetwin 7.5 - Pressure Tank Issue

My old motors run just fine on Champions. I run the J6Cs in all my 1950s Johnrudes.

As for the fuel tank, there's no reason not to rejuvenate it. Rebuild kits are available for less than the cost of the conversion. The system is simple and works well. Certainly worth a shot at taking your top canister assembly apart and seeing why the primer pump is stuck...

 

[Hofzer]

Re: Reviving 1956 Evinrude Fleetwin 7.5 - Pressure Tank Issue

Thank you all for the help.

Tonight was mostly good news. Even with the 20 year old plugs, I got great spark from both wires (with both plugs on both wires).

I opened up the viewing window on the flywheel and everything looks rather clean and shiny! In fact, the coils are green and rather new looking. Are these original? The only discoloration was a bit of black soot/grease. You can see my fingerprint in the photo. Everything whipes away easy, and the residue does not smell burnt at all.

I also removed the spark plugs and took pictures. The cylinder walls appear shiney enough, but the cylinder heads look quite fouled.

I'm about ready to give our forum patron some business: a carb kit, an impeller kit, and some new J6C's. I only see a manual for a 58+ johnson-evinrude 7.5's....
Does anyone have other suggestions or reservations based on the photos?

 

[Hofzer]

Re: Reviving 1956 Evinrude Fleetwin 7.5 - Pressure Tank Issue

Also, to remove the cowling, I, of cours, had to remove the speed adjustment knobs and and choke.

I immediately reinstalled them to the same approximate position, lining up the tab on the knob to the groove in the shaft to fine-tune the placement. Then It dawned on me. How do I know the last person installed these correctly. I there a usual position when the knob is lightly set?

Also, I have no markings on the tiller, but to start engine, it instructs me to place the handle in "start position." Well I have no manual, and I'm in the process of picking up a repair manual. I randomly guessed that the start position is with the arrow indicator at 12 o'clock (which would seem like an idling position and a bit slow for starting). Any pointers here?

Thanks again.

 

[Hofzer]

Re: Reviving 1956 Evinrude Fleetwin 7.5 - Pressure Tank Issue

And, add a carb float to the list, if I can track it down on this site...

I really don't expect this thing to fire until I clean the carb circuit. Hopefully that will be soon!

 

[samo_ott]

Re: Reviving 1956 Evinrude Fleetwin 7.5 - Pressure Tank Issue

I usually get it backward but the initial carb needle settings are 1.5 turns out from lightly seated for the low speed (upper) and 3/4ers turn out from lightly seated for the high speed (lower).

check the compression before going any farther. It's not worth the effort if it's low.

I have the parts manual on pdf if you PM me with your request.

And green coils are the newer ones, if they both look like that they're good to go.

 

[Hofzer]

Re: Reviving 1956 Evinrude Fleetwin 7.5 - Pressure Tank Issue

I usually get it backward but the initial carb needle settings are 1.5 turns out from lightly seated for the low speed (upper) and 3/4ers turn out from lightly seated for the high speed (lower).

check the compression before going any farther. It's not worth the effort if it's low.

I have the parts manual on pdf if you PM me with your request.

And green coils are the newer ones, if they both look like that they're good to go.

Any suggestions for a compression gauge? The parts are almost cheaper than the gauge. I know this ran before it was retire, the previous owner just moved away. The flywheel seems nice and "springy" as I rotate it. I suppose that doesn't mean a whole lot.

Both coils, condensors, and points look like the ones I posted. I just picked the best pictures.

 

[samo_ott]

Re: Reviving 1956 Evinrude Fleetwin 7.5 - Pressure Tank Issue

I think a guage is less than $20 at Harbour Frieght I think I've heard. They're pretty cheap. But you could try without. Just don't sink a lot of loot into it until you know.

I'd clean and gap the points through the inspection hole.

I'd also rebuild the pressure tank. I have many pressure tanks and they work fine. A kit to rebuild is less than $30 I believe. But you can test it via gravity and you mentioned. It's just alot harder when you want to run the boat thataway!

 

[Hofzer]

Re: Reviving 1956 Evinrude Fleetwin 7.5 - Pressure Tank Issue

But you can test it via gravity and you mentioned. It's just alot harder when you want to run the boat thataway!

I have a line on a local "rust free" pressure tank for $50. I emailed the guy, and haven't heard back since I asked if the tank built up pressure.

Still, I'm not sure how I feel about lighting up a smoke anywhere near a 50 year-old pressurized tank of gasoline. I'm funny like that.

 

[samo_ott]

Re: Reviving 1956 Evinrude Fleetwin 7.5 - Pressure Tank Issue

$50 is a good price. I sell mine for $75. The double female connector on the end of the hose is worth $130 new by itself so make sure the connector is attached!

And in theory you'd be safer lighting a smoke beside a working pressure tank which you know must be holding the fumes in as opposed to a modern tank which has a vent valve on the top which is letting the fumes out right beside your match!

In practice I would not light anything near either though!

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: Reviving 1956 Evinrude Fleetwin 7.5 - Pressure Tank Issue

Plus, when you're done running for any length of time, it is good practice to crack open the cap of a pressure tank and release the pressure so it doesn't push fuel through the carb while you're not running. Be sure to tighten the cap again before you restart...

 

[Hofzer]

Re: Reviving 1956 Evinrude Fleetwin 7.5 - Pressure Tank Issue

I'd also rebuild the pressure tank. I have many pressure tanks and they work fine. A kit to rebuild is less than $30 I believe. But you can test it via gravity and you mentioned. It's just alot harder when you want to run the boat thataway!

Where is a good place for the rebuild kit? I was only able to find it one place for $60. This will wait until she fires up anyhow.

 

[Hofzer]

Re: Reviving 1956 Evinrude Fleetwin 7.5 - Pressure Tank Issue

Well, I have bad news.

After the second suggestion that I check compression, I went out and got a gauge.

I'm not able to drive the gauge needle into the 80's. It stops somewhere that I would estimate at 75psi.

Here is the process I followed:

Lowered enging onto ground, plugs up. I put a bit of tcw3 oil in each cylinder.

The pull-start mechanism was still off from checking the points, so i rotated the flywheel a few times. I let the cylinders mellow while I put the motor back on the stand and reinstalled the pull-start mechanism.

I kept both ignition wires off the plugs, and with each cylinder, I would screw in the gauge, while the other cylinder had a plug in (lightly wrench tightened).

I set the gauge where I could see it and pulled stiffly until the needle stopped climbing. I didn't go "buck wild" pulling the rope, as my other half is sleeping almost above the garage.

Finally, I scratched my head and thought, WTF?

Its my understanding that I'm looking for compression around 120, but that 90 would do. Please, please correct me if I am wrong.

Also, what are my options now? It seems like I could make this a more "long term" project or abandon it all togther.... Sad day.