Reviving 1969 Fiberglass Boat with 1969 Chrysler 45hp

[Gryph]

Hey guys, I'll try to keep this as brief as possible. I've been looking for a cheap starter boat (money is an issue) and I've been working with this older guy who is about to move, long story short he has this boat that his family purchased new in the 60s! Well I'd been talking boats and he ends up offering it for free... now I know there is no such thing as a "free" boat.

Anyways here are some pictures, it's actually in better shape than expected... Floor is fiberglass and seems solid, some cracked fiberglass on the transom, but my full strength pushing on motor didn't flex it much. The boat has been sitting for 10+ years, apparently was put away properly and serviced... motor looks clean as anything inside the casing.

SOOO my extremely general question is where do I start? (after I trailer this thing out and hope it pulls well enough to get home).

Thanks,

 

[veedub]

Re: Reviving 1969 Fiberglass Boat with 1969 Chrysler 45hp

Nice Boat you got there!!! Not sure if you have started in on her but from experience, I would say first clean it inside and out. I know it sounds weak but you dont know what youve got until shes clean. Then if she runs, take her out and have some fun before you get the itch to start "fixing" things. But before you do anything on the water, make sure shes got clean new gas, steering works, fresh battery, and any safety equipment i could be forgetting. But she looks really clean and congrats on picking her up for FREE!!!

 

[1ArmBandit]

Re: Reviving 1969 Fiberglass Boat with 1969 Chrysler 45hp

i wouldnt take her out "before you get the itch"....if its been sitting for that long you had better get to "fixin" before anything else... .02

 

[bonz_d]

Re: Reviving 1969 Fiberglass Boat with 1969 Chrysler 45hp

I would 1st try and see if that old Chrysler will start. Mix up a little gas/oil mix in a spray bottte and see if it will fire. Don't use starting fluid. Might also want to shoot a little oil into each cylinder first and rotate it over to lube up the cylinder walls and rings. I'm sure it's dry after ten years.

If it fires over then you may want to look for a carb rebuild kit and a new water pump impellar before you actually try to run it.

Those old Chryslers were decent engines back then. Simple to work on much like the Johnson/Evinrudes of that time. Unsure about how available parts are for it these days. But if it starts and runs I'd keep it.

 

[Home Cookin']

Re: Reviving 1969 Fiberglass Boat with 1969 Chrysler 45hp

when you say cracks at the transom...give the motor a good hard tugging on to see if the transom moves/flexes; if it does you have a safety problem. If not, fine. Lots of old boats have cracks around the transom. You can give us pics but the flex test is most important.

I'd also say if the motor gives you any trouble at all, replace it. You can find a running OB that size for around $500. It won't be the first money you spend.

 

[veedub]

Re: Reviving 1969 Fiberglass Boat with 1969 Chrysler 45hp

i probably should have been a little more clear, make sure its sound and safe before you hit the water. If you notice the has soft spots, i'd take her out for a spin or two before you HAVE to tear the floor out and go through the whole process of rebuilding her. Thats just my two cents.

 

[Gryph]

Re: Reviving 1969 Fiberglass Boat with 1969 Chrysler 45hp

Whoa thanks for the replies guys. Almost forgot about this thread. Unfortunately I haven't picked up the boat yet (just started my ophthalmology rotation at vet school, time is tight). I think I'm going to try to get it this weekend if I can find a minute. I guess my first concern is going to be towing it home (about 45 mins drive normally, i'll go backroads and slow), the guy giving it to me is very optimistic about it all but I'm a little worried about the bearings/tires...

I think I will try to fire it first, then change the lower gear oil/impeller before I really run it. Still need to figure out where/what part to order for the impeller, I've seen a few listed for this era 45hp Chrysler so not sure which I need. I've also been told I should rebuild the fuel pump, not sure if I can source that kit though.

Last update is that the fellow I'm getting it from said he took it in somewhere to get a "tune up" at some point when he was thinking of taking it out on the water again (within the last 10 years) and the mechanic said it fired right up and "didn't need anything" lol.

So to recap:
step 1 - get it home without crashing
step 2 - clean/try to fire in water barrel (old garbage can ok?)
step 3 - if it fires without trouble (ya right) then do the lower gear oil/impeller before running it at all

Oh final Q is about the battery - I need to get one, no idea what specs to get, also the guy mentioned that the motor doesn't charge the battery so I'm not sure if that is a messed alternator or if its by design (magneto?)? He said he used to charge it in his car between runs, or pull start if needed.

 

[bonz_d]

Re: Reviving 1969 Fiberglass Boat with 1969 Chrysler 45hp

Just take it easy on the way home. dry rotted tires can be trickey. Nice thing about it I doubt that your load is at it's cap so go slow and stop to check those tires often on the way. I would probably run them 10# underinflated. An old garbage can will work just fine. could always check spark while you have the plugs out to squirt some oil into the cylinders.

When you get it home post in the Chrysler engine section with the model and serial number and I'm sure someone will lead you to the correct water pump kit. Could also check with NAPA as I know they carry alot of old OMC outboard parts like carb kits, electrical and ignition parts. I think they also have the water pump kits. Lastly any 12v auto battery should be enough to start it and I do believe that those were magnito ignitions, no alt. or stator.

 

[Gryph]

Re: Reviving 1969 Fiberglass Boat with 1969 Chrysler 45hp

Lastly any 12v auto battery should be enough to start it and I do believe that those were magnito ignitions, no alt. or stator.

Hey thanks again for the reply, I have posted over there too, very knowledgeable people.

Forgive my ignorance but what did/do people do with motors like this that don't charge the battery? Would I be looking at getting a "deep cycle" battery for something like this?

 

[bonz_d]

Re: Reviving 1969 Fiberglass Boat with 1969 Chrysler 45hp

No, just a starting battery which will have to be charged regularly. Could also carry a deep cycle to run lights and electronics.

 

[NYBo]

Re: Reviving 1969 Fiberglass Boat with 1969 Chrysler 45hp

I would go for a combination starting/deep cycle battery, which is really a compromise between the two types.

Find out the tire size and wheel lug pattern, and buy a couple of new wheels and tires to get you home. Chances are they are on the small side, and you can pick them up at WalMart/Tractor Supply/etc for not a lot of money.

 

[MH Hawker]

Re: Reviving 1969 Fiberglass Boat with 1969 Chrysler 45hp

I would sugest getting new tres and repacking the bearing before you start out.

 

[rivermouse]

Re: Reviving 1969 Fiberglass Boat with 1969 Chrysler 45hp

The boat has classic lines and the right size for one or 2 people. It will take a little time to see just what you have and determine what the service/repair cost might be. I for sure would check the wheel bearings to be sure they aren't stuck or need grease . As far as tires its your call on how bad they are . Pull slow and avoid major roads.

 

[Gryph]

Re: Reviving 1969 Fiberglass Boat with 1969 Chrysler 45hp

Well guys I went and picked up the boat today.

The tires on there were completely rotted away, luckily I brought the wheels/tires from my motorcycle trailer just in case. Swapped those on, had to spray a bunch of jigaloo in one of the bearings to free up the hub then it spun fine. Moved the boat with me on the front pulling, and my buddy behind pushing through this guys yard around to the front driveway (just to illustrate how easy she pulls, very light). No issues on the tow home.

As for the boat she cleaned up pretty nice, floor is solid, some flex in a couple spots, but definitely in no danger of going through any time soon.

My biggest concern is the transom at this point, I put almost my whole weight on the motor (I'm 220), and it does flex a touch, but does not seem in danger of ripping the motor off any time soon. I've attached pics of the cracks directly beside where the motor mounts, as well as the other various patches on this boat. The home made bench seat isn't pretty, but a little foam and vinyl will go a long way I think.

More pics to come of the patches on the bottom, two on the hull. Thoughts on what I've got here? The guy I got it from wasn't home so I didn't get the keys yet.

Oh also the steering seems to work, but doesn't turn the motor, is there a lockout somewhere that's on for towing? Thanks,

After a quick clean up:

 

[Gryph]

Re: Reviving 1969 Fiberglass Boat with 1969 Chrysler 45hp

 

[bonz_d]

Re: Reviving 1969 Fiberglass Boat with 1969 Chrysler 45hp

Sorry been away for a few days. So what's your plan? Have you tried to start that Chrysler yet?

 

[BF]

Re: Reviving 1969 Fiberglass Boat with 1969 Chrysler 45hp

I used to have a very similar rig... 14' fiberglass boat and 45 hp chrysler... both 1969. My FIL bought it used, I think in 1971. I finally sold it a couple years ago after I replaced it with a 17' I/O bowrider for the cottage. In the years I used it, I replaced the impeller and fuel lines. I also had to replace one of the little ball couplers that attach the throttle cable to the linkage. One thing I can say is that the motor never left me paddling. You can fix a lot on that motor with electrical tape, a flat screwdriver, a pair of pliers and some zip ties. My FIL had sunk it more than once (not running, and in freshwater)... he was not a good boat launcher/retriever... but was able to float it within minutes, pull the plugs and after turning over a bit would give it fresh fuel and get it running to get the moisture out of it. It seemed no worse for wear. It pushed the boat which was very similar to yours very well. I skied behind it several times, and we pulled our kids (or adults) in tubes, no problem. Add to your list that you should pick up some spare drive pins (=shear pins) and keep them in the boat. For old motors, the pins are supposed to shear if the prop hits something, but you should carry spares and know how to change them. You just take the cauter pin out of the rear prop cone, unscrew the cone and you'll see. I don't remember on these if the pin is at the back end of the prop, or at the front. When you are changing the lower unit oil, be careful to NOT remove the shift pivot screw instead of the drain screw. If you do remove it, it can mean taking the lower unit apart to get it back in.

The cracks on the transom look like they could use some attention, but I'd probably see if it runs and see how it all works before doing any fiberglass work. Cracks like that might indicate that the boat was trailered with the engine tilted up... bumps cause the motor to bounce and can cause cracking like that. By the way, I don't think there is any lock for the steering. Check if you can grease the engine pivot and the steering system. Look under the dash. That may be where the problem is.

forgot to tell you.. don't worry too much about the no charging thing... I only charged the battery 2 or 3 times a season and never had a problem. That was with a decent battery, not one that's already served a life of use in a car....

I also forgot to mention... go to merc dealer for parts... many parts are the same as the much later "force" line of outboards. I was very surprised that I could still get the cable end and impeller locally, no problem.

 

[BF]

Re: Reviving 1969 Fiberglass Boat with 1969 Chrysler 45hp

Hey Gryph, I PM'd (private messaged) you... go up to the "your account" section at the top of the page...

 

[Gryph]

Re: Reviving 1969 Fiberglass Boat with 1969 Chrysler 45hp

Hey thanks for the replies guys. I have not tried to fire the motor yet because I've been working on the steering tube. I removed the clamp that mounts on the lower part of the pivot to expose it... You can see the rust where the tube meets its housing and the thing will not move.

I tried spraying WD40 at the top and bottom, and removed the two screws (one is a grease fitting) and tried to spray WD40 in those. I also tried to pump grease in the zero, and it was pumping in for a while and then the zerk popped out.

This tube will not move, I tried pushing the lower unit/power head up to get access to the very top of where the steering pivot mounts underneath the power head, hopefully I didn't bust anything with all the manipulation but was unsuccessful accessing it. So I'm kind of at a standstill on this. Also all the manipulating has exposed how bad the transom is I think, lots of flex, can hear wood cracking I think....

So now I'm debating what to do, was hoping I'd get a good boat out of this and buy a cheap motor, or get a good motor and buy a cheap boat lol. Now I feel the boat and motor might be pooched, trailer seems ok at least.

Anyone have experience freeing up a steering tube like this? (I disconnected the steering cables from the boat BTW, so that's not the problem).

Thanks

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Reviving 1969 Fiberglass Boat with 1969 Chrysler 45hp



You have a LOT of work to do on that hull and engine. First off, that transom is probably rotted and punky--that's why it has cracked in so many places. Short of removing the hull top and replacing the transom wood there is not much of a permanent repair.

You CAN drill the transom and inject penetrating epoxy (like Git-Rot) Then cap the top with aluminum angle (3 X 3 X 3/16) on the inside, running the full length of the transom. Then use some angle to reinforce the corners where the old man used some glass over the cracks. This would give a long-lasting repair but eventually the wood will still need to be replaced. By then, however you may have decided to buy a bigger boat.

As far as the engine, If it is the kingpin that has seized and the engine itself won't turn--well, it is a long frustrating repair. The kingpin is set into the yoke (the part that holds the transom clamps) with two plastic bushings. In addition to the kingpin rusting, the yoke corrodes and squeezes the plastic tight onto the kingpin. The cure is to remove the kingpin/yoke assembly from the engine and drive out the kingpin. Then you drive off the plastic bushings--hoping you don't destroy them. Clean everything and sand the inside of the bushings. Grease everything and reassemble. Way easier to buy a junker that does steer for parts.