rewiring my boat

[new_boater]

i am planing the rewire of my boat
i want the controls all by the steering wheel in dash
i am thinking of this for the control area as i could switch on/off things as needed or see if a circuit is tripped easily. i would rather not have fuses as it is one more thing to forget in the middle of the lake

am i thinking correcly about this and how do other people setup their fuse blocks





http://www.iboats.com/Seadog_Vertic...d.247170--list_time.1188657464--view_id.49306

 

[burroak]

Re: rewiring my boat

For a small boat, this should do it. Fuses work well if you system is done properly and you disconnect the battery before poking around electrical stuff. A pack of spare fuses is great insurance at a small price.

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x54/burroak1/X1100tmp.jpg

If you need a more elaborate wiring scheme, check out:

http://www.stingrayboats.com/products/pdf/wiring/240CS_dc_wiring_dual_battery.pdf

 

[new_boater]

Re: rewiring my boat

what all gauges are needed?
i am replacing the speedo & tach but that is all that is on the boat now. i know i want to add something for water, which is better temp or pressure (it's a early '70s merc 115hp ob).
what other gauges should i include?

 

[burroak]

Re: rewiring my boat

what all gauges are needed?
i am replacing the speedo & tach but that is all that is on the boat now. i know i want to add something for water, which is better temp or pressure (it's a early '70s merc 115hp ob).
what other gauges should i include?

The diagrams that I gave links to will get you started. You'll have to determine what and how much you want to monitor.

This may assist in reading the diagrams.

ere are the standard wire colors used in the boating industry since the late 70s. When re-powering a boat with a newer motor this is a handy reference. Most boats use these standards but always double check in case changes have been made! BIA Wire Color--------------------Where it is used Black---------------------------------All Grounds Black with Yellow stripe---------Magneto/short to Kill Gray----------------------------------Tachometer signal Yellow with Black stripe---------Choke Red----------------------------------Unprotected(12V+)from battery Red with Purple stripe-----------Protected(+12V)from battery Purple-----------------------------(+12V)from ignition switch Tan------------------------------Overheat sensor to warning horn Pink-------------------------------Sending unit to fuel guage Yellow with Red stripe----Ignition switch to starter solenoid Yellow-----------------------------charging stator to rectifier Lt.Blue with White stripe--------Trim up Green with White stripe-----------Trim down

Some more standard wire colors used on many inboard boats, always double check though, as some vary or may have been changed along the way!

Some standard colors for boats since 1980 are as follows:
? heavy red 10 guage (main battery)
? heavy black (main ground)
? purple (ignition)
? yellow (starter solonoid)
? grey (tachometer)
? brown (temperature)
? blue (oil pressure)
? brown with stripe (alarm)
Accesories
? pink (fuel sending unit)
? yellow (blower)
? brown (bilge pump)
? grey (navigation lights)
? heavy green (bonding wire)
? red (misc electrical add-ons , vhf , depth finder, stereo, radar, power supplies)

 

[Silvertip]

Re: rewiring my boat

Boats most commonly include, Tach, Speedo, Fuel, and Volts. Water pressure, Water Temp, and Trim are optional. Water pressure and Water Temp are highly desireable. Water pressure tells you the water pump is pumping water but it does not tell you whether the engine is overheating. I have both but if I had to choose just one, it would be water pressure. If you do install a pressure gauge, replace the impeller at the same time. Then note idle and WOT water pressure. Any deviation from those numbers in the future indicate water pump or impeller degradation. Since you have an outboard, a trim gauge is not necessary as you can turn your head and see the engine. On an I/O you can't see the outdrive so a trim gauge is necessary.

 

[new_boater]

Re: rewiring my boat

thanks guys

 

[luckyinkentucky]

Re: rewiring my boat

I would buy an all inclusive wiring harness from BH Electronics or someone like that. It includes your fuse box, switches, and diodes if needed for your specs. That would be a heck of a lot easier than rewiring everything from scratch. Just my opinion.

 

[new_boater]

Re: rewiring my boat

would they have one for a '72 slickcraft or a generic one?
could you provide a link?

 

[luckyinkentucky]

Re: rewiring my boat

Below is the only link I could find for them, but they provide 80% of the wiring harnesses for all US boat manufacturers. They are the actual supplier for Skeeter, Nitro, and Triton, and those are the only ones I know about. There are many more. I'm sure if they didn't have one then you could tell them what you need, and they make you one. From looking at their website I noticed you will have to contact them via phone since they don't offer the harnesses on their website.

http://www.bhelectronics.com/

 

[new_boater]

Re: rewiring my boat

what type of wire should be used?
i read somewhere not to use standard copper wire

what do you think

 

[beerfilter]

Re: rewiring my boat

what type of wire should be used?
i read somewhere not to use standard copper wire

what do you think

If your running in the salty stuff , you should definately use marine grade wires (solder tinned , copper strand ) and seal all connections well .

If you run in fresh water , automotive wire is fine .
Do not use stranded THN/THHN wires for home/commercial use .
It has thicker individual strands that are stiffer than automotive wire and are more subject to vibration damage .
Also why you absolutely NEVER want to use solid strand wire .

My setup is pretty simple , just 3 switches + 1 open spare , 4 fuses + another open spare , 1 master breaker .

4 gauge to master breaker , 8 gauge to TM , 10 gauge to fuse/dist. block , 14 gauge for the switched circuits .
I used plastic weather resistant enclosures for the switch panel, fuse block , and , breaker .
I bolted pvc conduit under the gunnel , and used split loom for the rest .
Very neat and tidy install .

 

[new_boater]

Re: rewiring my boat

If your running in the salty stuff , you should definately use marine grade wires (solder tinned , copper strand ) and seal all connections well .

If you run in fresh water , automotive wire is fine .
Do not use stranded THN/THHN wires for home/commercial use .
It has thicker individual strands that are stiffer than automotive wire and are more subject to vibration damage .
Also why you absolutely NEVER want to use solid strand wire .

My setup is pretty simple , just 3 switches + 1 open spare , 4 fuses + another open spare , 1 master breaker .

4 gauge to master breaker , 8 gauge to TM , 10 gauge to fuse/dist. block , 14 gauge for the switched circuits .
I used plastic weather resistant enclosures for the switch panel, fuse block , and , breaker .
I bolted pvc conduit under the gunnel , and used split loom for the rest .
Very neat and tidy install .

ok i installed this switch panel
other than the tach wiring coming from the back of boat i think all other wiring will go out from here.
my question is form the battery up to here what size wire? the max is panel is able to handle is 60 amp if i were to wiring it that way(i know i wont) but i want to be sure to not over draw in the main feed to the panel (no hot or melted wires)
is 10 ga correct or should i go with a heavier wire say 8 or 6 ga

as this is a family boat i will not take chances

thanks Bruce

 

[burroak]

Re: rewiring my boat

Use a #10 red (+) with at least a 30 amp fuse at the battery and a #10(-)black back to the (-) side of the battery.

 

[new_boater]

Re: rewiring my boat

thanks for the help hopefully i will have it done in the next couple of weeks