Rochester 2BBL carb rebuild Kit

[yjanray]

I ordered a rebuild kit for my MCM165 with a 2bbl rochester carb. What I got was a rebuild kit with instructions for older GM vehicles. Will this kit work to rebuild my marine rochester carb?

Thanks,

 

[Watermann]

Re: Rochester 2BBL carb rebuild Kit

Yes, the only thing marine about the old Rochester carb is the spark arrester on top of it rather than a paper filter.

 

[yjanray]

Re: Rochester 2BBL carb rebuild Kit

Thanks, that what I figured. I'm gonna get started on this rebuild. Pretty nervous, I've only taken apart simple small outboard carbs and leaf blower/lawn mower type carbs before. This thing is a beast compared to those.....

 

[yjanray]

Re: Rochester 2BBL carb rebuild Kit

Another question. I felt pretty good about the rebuild last night, but this morning I realized that I forgot to put the small mesh screen in the float bowl, next to the accelerator pump well. Is that a important piece, and do I need to disassemble the thing again to put it in?

Also, what is the line covered with a white fabric type material for. It goes from the choke assy. to the exhaust header. When I took my carb off the motor, it was rusted off at the exhaust. Is this going to be a problem? Should I try and jb weld it on there or something?



Sorry for the poor picture, I wasn't really taking a picture of the part in question, more of the connections to put it back together, and its the only picture I have at work....hard at work on a Friday! :-D

Thanks,

 

[ziggy]

Re: Rochester 2BBL carb rebuild Kit

fwiw, i used the oem mercruiser service manual for specs when i rebuilt my carb. if i remember right, i even used a combo of s/m 1 and 2. 2 was proper for my rig, but the float level adj. was confusing to me for measuring and 1 helped me get through that problem. here's a link to some service manuals. choose the one that's right (by serial number) for your rig.
as for the screen. i'd go put it back imho. sure looks like fine mesh, likely preventing debris from interfering with the ball brgs. in the accelerator pump.

it was rusted off at the exhaust. Is this going to be a problem?

might be. it's the stove pipe that transfers heat up to the auto choke bimetal spring that determines when the engine is getting warm and time for the choke to pull off. open.


that's a pic of where that pipe goes to. i've had 2 of them types of choke set ups. one of them rusted off like yours. i drilled down in the hole in the manifold some to allow me to put a piece of brake line that i'd bent to the proper shape down the hole and back up to the auto choke. this seemed to work. i didn't drill out the whole pipe. just far enough down to stick the new pipe in the hole and have it stay there. the pic is of where that pipe goes to once it disappears into the manifold.

 

[yjanray]

Re: Rochester 2BBL carb rebuild Kit

Ziggy,
As Always, Thanks for the quality post! I used service manual 3 to rebuild the carb, as well as some pictures from a v8buick forum, a pictorial essay of a rebuild of a rochester 2bbl. Used the SM for detailed information, and the pictures to just verify what I was thinking or not thinking. Wound up with a couple of extra gaskets, washers, and an extra ball bearing. Also, the rebuild kit I got said quicksilver on the box, however the gasket for the choke assy cover, where you mix the lean/rich setting, was too big, and wouldn't fit, so I had to use my old gasket, which wasn't in that bad of condition.

I will go ahead and take the air horn off again and put that metal screen back in. Also, did you have a really small c-clamp holding the ball bearing in at the bottom of the accelerator pump well? I had one, and it was a PITA to get outta there, and I couldn't get it back in. However, I never saw mention of a c-clamp in the OEM manual or in the pictures I was looking at.

One more thing, I did not have a metal baffle surrounding my float valve when I disassembled....wasn't sure if that was something they quit doing on later model rochester 2bbls....


Thanks,
Yorke