Roll-n-tip vs spray

Fullspectrum

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 11, 2008
Messages
45
I'm planning to repaint my 16 ft aluminum, but can't seem to make up my mind if I should roll-n-tip or spray.

I can get a hold of an air compressor and paint gun, but I have no experience painting this way. I can also go with rolling, which I don't think is too difficult, but not sure if I'll get a nice smooth quality finish.

What's your take on this and why would you recommend the method you suggest?
 

rockyrude

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Sep 10, 2007
Messages
1,120
Re: Roll-n-tip vs spray

You didn't say what paint you are planning on using, but if you are using a marine paint you can get spray results from the roll and tip. Marine finishes are pretty toxic to spray without the proper personal gear.
 

Fullspectrum

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Feb 11, 2008
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Re: Roll-n-tip vs spray

I got some Rust-Oleum Marine paint from Gander Mountain. I picked up some primer, but haven't on the paint yet.

I was leaning towards spraying myself, but I did some searching on roll-n-tipping and that sounds good as well.

I'm trying to save as much $ as I can too, so any recommendations would be great!
 

drewpster

Commander
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Oct 17, 2006
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2,059
Re: Roll-n-tip vs spray

perfect2.jpg


This is a pic of the first coat of Interlux Perfection paint on the fiberglass hull of my old tug. It was well prepped and roll-tipped. I used rollers for marine paints and tipped it off using a badger hair brush. The pic does not do it justice. You can just make out the reflection of a ladder sitting close to the bow. Keep in mind that these paints are designed to be applied this way and are very shiney. It is important to do a smooth prep job because defects will show easily in the shiney paint.
 

Fullspectrum

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Feb 11, 2008
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Re: Roll-n-tip vs spray

I went to the local Ace hardware store to check out the paint and brushes that were available. I found some 4" rollers...six pack...smooth. Are those the rollers to use and how often do you need to change the rollers with painting? A pack of six rollers are going for alittle over $6...just want to know if I'll be changing alot of rollers/brushes.

Boat looks great.
 

TheWoodCrafter

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Nov 20, 2007
Messages
414
Re: Roll-n-tip vs spray

If you don't have any experience spraying paint I would say roll and tip is for you. It does take a little practice and experience mixing the paint.
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
12,932
Re: Roll-n-tip vs spray

thoes paper maskes are for large particle....

i dont think they do any good with small particle and even worse with fumes.........

sorry....im not a fan of thoes.....

use a higher dollar resporator.......if your on a budget........find one a at garage sale.


just for background....a few years ago... i was spraying the celing of one of my new stores......using an airless.....the product was a special amonia base for celing insulation......4 hours on a scafold 24 feet in the air......the fumes were was so bad employees 2 units down were complaining......feeling nausious........i was fine.....didnt smell anything

the masks are worth the money
 
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oops!

Supreme Mariner
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Oct 18, 2007
Messages
12,932
Re: Roll-n-tip vs spray

and btw......

welcome to i boats !
 

gcboat

Lieutenant Commander
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Messages
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Re: Roll-n-tip vs spray

As everyone has mentioned stay away from spraying - especially if you've never done it before. No, the Wagner is not what you want. It's made for DIY homeowner's spraying heavy latex paint. No matter which way you go with any spray equipment it will be the tip that decides your final outcome of material application. If you're still so anxious to use a sprayer check out what tip in is the gun. You'll also need a compressor that will carry at least 90 psi with a continous 40 psi at the nozzle - again it all depends on the tip and what type of gun you want to use. Is it a HVLP, gravity feed or siphon system? Need an answer to these questions before you decide to use a sprayer.
 

Fullspectrum

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 11, 2008
Messages
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Re: Roll-n-tip vs spray

ok...I think I'll go with roll-n-tipping.

So, what kind of roller/brushes should I go with for a good finish and how often should the rollers need to be replaced in the process?
 

gcboat

Lieutenant Commander
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May 29, 2007
Messages
1,822
Re: Roll-n-tip vs spray

With good care the brush will last a long time. However you should just trash the roller covers after each use. You'll spend more money cleaning them then the cost of a new one.

Either way ( one part - two part ) I would buy some good phenolic core covers. The ones with the cardboard will fall apart with the two part chemicals. Find a good marine purveyor and direct that question to them. They will steer you in the right direction.

There are lot's of really good badger hair brushes of all sizes on e-Bay. Actually you really don't need a badger hair specific brush. What you are looking for is one with 'flagged' tips. The unfortunate side is that this 'flagging' is naturally inherent in badger's -go figure. Think of it as split ends in a human hair.

Enough rambling - anyway, here's a link to Interlux Paints. http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/home/default.asp
There are some pretty good discussions on marine paints and their applications. Might be a good read for you. Enjoy your project and have fun.
Post some pics when done - we like pics.
 

drewpster

Commander
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Oct 17, 2006
Messages
2,059
Re: Roll-n-tip vs spray

Ok first, go to the interlux website and read up. Also look at the videos they have. That will give you a good heads up.
It may seem a little complicated at first but trust me its not. If I can figure it out anyone can.
Use only thin nap phenolic core rollers as mentioned in gcboat's post. Marine polyurethane paints have strong solvents that eat cheaper (latex) rollers. They are available at marine suppliers, both online and local.
I used a single roller to do the first coat of the boat in my earlier post. They can be cleaned but remember, these paints are polyurethane based. They have to be cleaned using thinner, not water. Its easier to just buy a few rollers and dispose of the used ones. Start fresh with a new one for each coat.
The brush is different story. Buy a quality, chisel tipped brush with natural bristles. I have used china bristle brushes from the home center. But I prefer badger hair. Badger hair is expensive, I think I gave $30.00 for the four inch one I have. However the bristles have held up much better after repeated cleanings than the ones from the hardware store.
Cleaning tip: Use two or three pots of thinner to clean your brush. Use the first to start, when it becomes loaded with paint, move to the next clean pot. Then when the brush is almost completely clean move to the third clean pot to remove the rest of the paint and finish the bristles. Also get yourself a brass bristle cleaning brush from the hardware store. You can use it to gently brush out the bristles of any particles of paint that may be left. It is great for removing any partially dried paint from the brush. Be thorough and the brush will dry like new.
Another consideration is the roller pan. Get a roller tray and compatible solvent resistant plastic liners. (home center) When you are done painting, peel out the liner and throw it away. Pop in a new one and there is easy cleanup.
One more word about brushes. There may be areas of the boat that the roller cannot be used to apply the paint and you need to use a brush. I recommend keeping a second brush handy to apply the paint and reserve your expensive one for tipping off only. It is important that your tipping brush not become loaded with paint while you work. I use a cheaper China bristle to apply the paint in these areas, and tip it off with the badger. It keeps the badger brush cleaner and yields a smoother finish. I have had novice experience with both one part and two part marine polyurethanes. Each has its own characteristics. However both of them are easy to use. Spend 90 percent of your time prepping the surface and 10 percent painting and you will get a great finish. I am very happy with mine.

You mentioned that you bought Rustoleum marine paint. Be sure Rustoleum can be rolled as we have recommended.
 
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