rubbing coumpound

nightvision

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 7, 2004
Messages
252
Hi all,
I'm in the process of restoring a boat with a dull and chauky hull. I will be sanding it first to remove the chaulky surface. Next I plan to use a rubbing compound. In this process, is the purpose to remove more of the chaulky material (oxidation) or is to smooth out the scratches from sanding? I'll polish and wax later.

Is it ok to use auto compound? I got access to this stuff for free.

Thanks.
 

wire2

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 25, 2007
Messages
1,584
Re: rubbing coumpound

Automotive rubbing compound works fine for removing sanding scratches, provided you did the last sanding with at least 600 wet. If you ended with 1000 or finer, it takes less effort the bring the shine back. You may want to experiment with polishing compound too. Then wax.
 

rockyrude

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Sep 10, 2007
Messages
1,120
Re: rubbing coumpound

I just got done doing the very same thing, wetsanded with 400 grit to remove oxidation, then wet sanded with 600 to smooth scratches then used autmotive polishing compound to shine it all up. Seal and wax.
 

4Winns2

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 2, 2006
Messages
327
Re: rubbing coumpound

I just got done doing the very same thing, wetsanded with 400 grit to remove oxidation, then wet sanded with 600 to smooth scratches then used autmotive polishing compound to shine it all up. Seal and wax.

I did what everybody else is saying here. Finally, after 3 years and a lot of wax, I don't have sand out any oxidation any more. I did pull her out of the water (she sits on a mooring for 5 months) mid season and wax her again. Seemed to help a little at the end of the season. Just keep her waxed once you get the oxidation out.

BTW: used acid wash on my hull this year- -great stuff!
 

mudmagnet63

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 28, 2007
Messages
231
Re: rubbing coumpound

Just curious 4wins what type acid and what mixture raito I'll be starting on my hull in about 2 weeks bottom gelcoat is good, top is crap and will be repainted. Spray on acid? Brush?
 

4Winns2

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 2, 2006
Messages
327
Re: rubbing coumpound

Just curious 4wins what type acid and what mixture raito I'll be starting on my hull in about 2 weeks bottom gelcoat is good, top is crap and will be repainted. Spray on acid? Brush?

I was at our local marina a few weeks ago and they had kids hired to clean hulls as the mass winterization project was underway. I watched for a few minutes and saw what great results they were having getting rust stains and all the crap a boat gets while being moored for a long time. I asked what they were using and it was a product called "On/Off Hull Cleaner." They offered that they had diluted it with a little water; which I didn't do and it worked fine.

I picked a pint at another marine store the following week. I then went to Auto Zone (advice:don't pay the marina prices there for this brush) to pick up a soft brush with a handle to reach underneath the hull all the way. Last Sunday, I tried it out and it worked great. No real hard brushing, just get it on there and rinse completely. It's powerful stuff so read the directions.

It tells you to wear gloves and safety goggles. I advise you to do this at least while working with acid. With the long handle I didn't have really any back splash but I was being very careful.

I've had this boat for three years. I've been boating for 38 years. This is the first fiberglass one I've moored. I'm picky about my toys. The first two years, I used a little scrubby to clean the white portion of the hull. I can't tell you how laborious that was. This stuff worked great and left the hull nice and showroom white. Cut the labor time on the worst of the hull by three quarters if I had to estimate. Sorry for the long explanation.
 

Steve Mahler

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 10, 2006
Messages
361
Re: rubbing coumpound

I want to pile on to this discussion - I have an old red fiberglass boat that has dull, but not pink, finish to the topsides. I just bought a variable speed 7" buffer. What next?

I am hesitant to wet sand, doesnt seem to need that - any recommended chemicals?

Years ago I worked at a body shop and did great work on fiberglass truck caps with chemicals and buffing, no sanding.

Advice?

Thanks
 

wire2

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 25, 2007
Messages
1,584
Re: rubbing coumpound

I want to pile on to this discussion - I have an old red fiberglass boat that has dull, but not pink, finish to the topsides. I just bought a variable speed 7" buffer. What next?

I am hesitant to wet sand, doesnt seem to need that - any recommended chemicals?

Years ago I worked at a body shop and did great work on fiberglass truck caps with chemicals and buffing, no sanding.

Advice?

Thanks
Were the truck caps faded from sun exposure? If your boat is dull, the top layer of gelcoat is rough and porous, it must be removed to get a full shine back. Red pigment is the most sensitive color to UV fading, as you may now be aware.

Wet sanding removes a very thin layer evenly, better than a buffer with rubbing compound. Try a small area with 600 wet, then 1000 wet. Then you can buff with compound. If you don't get all the dead gelcoat off, (still some porosity) the shine will not be like glass and will fade quickly. And the color will be blotchy.
 

Steve Mahler

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 10, 2006
Messages
361
Re: rubbing coumpound

I will give it a try. Just to clarify, I should have the surface fully wet with a spray bottle etc, and then sand? I assume after a round of this, I should wash off the residue with a damp cloth before trying compound?

Last Q - is there a minimum temperature for this work, it is starting to fall through the 60s here - will soon be no more than 50 deg F.....?
 

wire2

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 25, 2007
Messages
1,584
Re: rubbing coumpound

I will give it a try. Just to clarify, I should have the surface fully wet with a spray bottle etc, and then sand?

Yes, the water keeps the residue from clogging the sandpaper. Give it another spray every 10-15 seconds. You'll see the residue rinse away.

I assume after a round of this, I should wash off the residue with a damp cloth before trying compound?

Yes, but not critical.

Last Q - is there a minimum temperature for this work, it is starting to fall through the 60s here - will soon be no more than 50 deg F.....?

Yes, 32?. Or when your hands get too cold.:D
Temperature isn't really a factor, there's no curing or drying taking place.

Remember to sand with fingers flat on the paper, don't dig in with finger tips
 

rockyrude

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Sep 10, 2007
Messages
1,120
Re: rubbing coumpound

wet sanding usaully works "better the wetter" I just keep a couple of buckets of water handy. You will be able to tell when the sandpaper is getting clogged, just rinse the paper in the bucket. The water left on the sandpaper will be plenty until you need to rinse. The last one I did I used my palm sander, took a little creativity to keep water out of the sander, but really sped things up.
 

impman

Cadet
Joined
Aug 22, 2007
Messages
17
Re: rubbing coumpound

I want to pile on to this discussion - I have an old red fiberglass boat that has dull, but not pink, finish to the topsides. I just bought a variable speed 7" buffer. What next?

I am hesitant to wet sand, doesnt seem to need that - any recommended chemicals?

Years ago I worked at a body shop and did great work on fiberglass truck caps with chemicals and buffing, no sanding.

Advice?

Thanks

wetsand with 800 1200 1500, use 3m perfect it 3 with a hi speed buffer. youll love the results
 
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