Running at 75%, engine dies and wont restart (VRO pulse line leak?)

[guitman32]

Re: Running at 75%, engine dies and wont restart (VRO pulse line leak?)

The power pack killswitch wires are showing a voltage of 2.8v and 3.0v when key is turned to ON position...per the installation instructions on the CDI power pack if there is a voltage above 2V the power pack will blow.

Checked for shorts on the harness side, couldnt find any. No shorts on the instrument side of the engine harness.

Where the heck is this voltage coming from? Its a new ignition switch (CH M-832BP Ignition w/Push to choke), and wires have been verified from the loom under the console directly to the new ign switch.

Ignition switch was wired as follows:
B = Red/Purple
S = White-ish
C = Purple/White
I = Disconnected (no accessories or gauges are connected)
M = Black
M = Black/Yellow

Is this coming from the switch? Or is there a short somewhere in the system?

 

[guitman32]

Re: Running at 75%, engine dies and wont restart (VRO pulse line leak?)

Update: Disconnected harness at engine, connected battery and tested the killswitch wires.

Still 2.4-5v at each wire.

Ok, so problem is not at the console. I didn't see any shorts on the wire. My only theory is that the big reg harness connector on the engine side is bleeding a bit of voltage onto the kill wires. Also, the voltage spikes by about 1V when I push the choke in. I disconnected the starter from the system and still get the same reading.

Any suggestions on how to proceed? Can a corroded harness bleed 2.5v to the killswitch wires?

 

[guitman32]

Re: Running at 75%, engine dies and wont restart (VRO pulse line leak?)

To try and isolate the issue I cut the Killswitch wires before the engine harness. Oddly enough after I did this...the reading on the kill wire JUMPED to 4.5v.

So, a wire that is disconnected at both ends is getting 4.5v? At this point I pry the black/yellow wire away from everything...and finally get ZERO voltage on the wire. I also noticed some bleed on the tach sense wire and the purple wire (not that it matters), so re-spliced them as well. Also insulated all suspect wires with electrical tape from the power pack harness to the main harness just to be safe. Have no idea what was going on as the wires looked fine (aged, but not frayed). Oh well, now with no voltage on the killswitch wires I can finally install the power pack.

Installed the new power pack and regulator (also installed new coils and plug wires for good measure) and she fired right up, first turn of the key...it actually caught me off guard because I didnt expect her to fire that quickly.

Also, battery is now charging normally, about 13.5v at idle, jumps from there under throttle.

Tomorrow...sea trial.

Thanks everyone as always for your help. And never underestimate the electrical boogeyman, he works in mysterious ways.