stealurface
Seaman Apprentice
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2004
- Messages
- 34
Re: Running in a "bucket"
Update - do not know if I should start another post?? This is somewhat long.<br /><br />Worked on her this weekend. '66 9.5<br /><br />1. Compression was 75 in 1 and 55 in another
Should have checked it before any $$!!<br />Question - is there anything I can try to get the 1 better? I will read through the posts - I seem to recall "mystery oil" or something.<br /><br />2. Replaced water pump with kit. <br />Question - is it suppoed to make a "sucking" sound when hand cranking - it was as if the new kit made turning the crank VERY tight. Old kit was pushing water fine and the crank turned much easier. (Does this relate to poor power when in gear in the question below?)<br /><br />3. Regapped the plugs.<br /><br />4. Fuel system checked out A O K as per tests in manual. I replaced the female connector at the engine - LEAK GONE.<br /><br />Re-asembled her - 10 pulls - she finally fired. It was idling low and high very well - sounded great. Turned off and restarted again. Put her on boat - started her after 3 pulls. Put in forward for test and took her out - she HAD NO POWER as she did before - and she ran rough when in GEAR. Idled high, just had no power. <br /><br />Brought her back in - would not restart. Pulled her off again and back to the shed.<br /><br />4. Pulled fly wheel - the thing looked brand new. Coils not cracked and it was CLEAN.<br /><br />5. POINTS - I examined them and as per the manual - gauged them - they were off. I adjusted them to .020 I did notice they were a little "off alignment too" as per manual but do not know how to adjust them. Got confused there. They were not pitted or anything. I did not add new ones as I wanted to see if the gap change did anything.<br /><br />Reassembled and put her back in the "bucket" 2 pulls - she fired up. Turned off - 1 pull she fired up. Ran her for 15 mintutes, shut off - 1 effortless pull she FIRED UP!! Hey hey hey !<br /><br />Put her BACK on the boat - 1 pull she fired up. Took her out - SAME PROBLEM as before NO POWER when in GEAR. <br /><br />1. Can the power problem be related to new impeller? It was AFTER I did this change that I noticed the power problem. It idled HIGH and LOW really well, but seemed really rough in gear.<br /><br />2. Could the warm start problem be thermostat or ignition realted? It is as if when she got RUNNING in gear and warmed up - taken out - and I try to restart she will not fire up.<br /><br />-------------------<br /><br />So here I am - my limit is around 100 bucks on this puppy (I can get a used 15HP for 400) this is my first foray in this type work. I consider the spend and investment in knowledge. (I can now say I "re-built" a carb and swagger a bit. And it is interesting - yet frustrating.<br /><br />1. Decarbed<br />2. Carb Kit<br />3. Plugs<br />4. Water Pump hit<br />5. Tools<br />6. Manual (WELL worth it)<br />7. Fuel connector<br /><br />3. Given the info that the 1 cylinder is way below the other for compression should I even try NEW points ?? The change I made in the gauge alone was very beneficial. I am just converned it is overheat realted or something.<br /><br />Thanks to all who have and will reply.
Update - do not know if I should start another post?? This is somewhat long.<br /><br />Worked on her this weekend. '66 9.5<br /><br />1. Compression was 75 in 1 and 55 in another
Should have checked it before any $$!!<br />Question - is there anything I can try to get the 1 better? I will read through the posts - I seem to recall "mystery oil" or something.<br /><br />2. Replaced water pump with kit. <br />Question - is it suppoed to make a "sucking" sound when hand cranking - it was as if the new kit made turning the crank VERY tight. Old kit was pushing water fine and the crank turned much easier. (Does this relate to poor power when in gear in the question below?)<br /><br />3. Regapped the plugs.<br /><br />4. Fuel system checked out A O K as per tests in manual. I replaced the female connector at the engine - LEAK GONE.<br /><br />Re-asembled her - 10 pulls - she finally fired. It was idling low and high very well - sounded great. Turned off and restarted again. Put her on boat - started her after 3 pulls. Put in forward for test and took her out - she HAD NO POWER as she did before - and she ran rough when in GEAR. Idled high, just had no power. <br /><br />Brought her back in - would not restart. Pulled her off again and back to the shed.<br /><br />4. Pulled fly wheel - the thing looked brand new. Coils not cracked and it was CLEAN.<br /><br />5. POINTS - I examined them and as per the manual - gauged them - they were off. I adjusted them to .020 I did notice they were a little "off alignment too" as per manual but do not know how to adjust them. Got confused there. They were not pitted or anything. I did not add new ones as I wanted to see if the gap change did anything.<br /><br />Reassembled and put her back in the "bucket" 2 pulls - she fired up. Turned off - 1 pull she fired up. Ran her for 15 mintutes, shut off - 1 effortless pull she FIRED UP!! Hey hey hey !<br /><br />Put her BACK on the boat - 1 pull she fired up. Took her out - SAME PROBLEM as before NO POWER when in GEAR. <br /><br />1. Can the power problem be related to new impeller? It was AFTER I did this change that I noticed the power problem. It idled HIGH and LOW really well, but seemed really rough in gear.<br /><br />2. Could the warm start problem be thermostat or ignition realted? It is as if when she got RUNNING in gear and warmed up - taken out - and I try to restart she will not fire up.<br /><br />-------------------<br /><br />So here I am - my limit is around 100 bucks on this puppy (I can get a used 15HP for 400) this is my first foray in this type work. I consider the spend and investment in knowledge. (I can now say I "re-built" a carb and swagger a bit. And it is interesting - yet frustrating.<br /><br />1. Decarbed<br />2. Carb Kit<br />3. Plugs<br />4. Water Pump hit<br />5. Tools<br />6. Manual (WELL worth it)<br />7. Fuel connector<br /><br />3. Given the info that the 1 cylinder is way below the other for compression should I even try NEW points ?? The change I made in the gauge alone was very beneficial. I am just converned it is overheat realted or something.<br /><br />Thanks to all who have and will reply.