Rusted bolts

[ferdly1]

I was able to remove 2 of my engine bolts on my 75 hp force. However I have two that were rusted so bad I rounded head off trying to get them loose. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Not gonna go the easy out route. They are a nitemare to remove if broken. any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[Jiggz]

Obviously, you will not be re-using those old rusted bolts anymore. Get access to the head and a small P grinder and cut them off. Just make sure you cover for sparks on anything that is combustible.

 

[ferdly1]

Thanks Jigz for your reply. I was saving drilling or grinding as a last resort. Not exactly sure what a P grinder is. I spent yesterday running around town looking for a rusty bolt extractor. I can tell you the one called gator grip from home depot did not work, just rounded head more. I hit grainger, counerstone tools, even bolt depot and of course the last place I tried was harbor freight, not a big fan of their tools. I bought a 9pc bolt extractor set 8mm-19mm. The bolt was 14mm or 9/16. however I used the 13mm socket and hammered it on. Using a breaker bar I was able remove two bolts quite easily. Probably never use this again. But a handy tool to have for sure. Area was tight. even had to use a swivel socket. the tool says they are made of chromed molybendum steel with is tuff however right next to them were socket wrenches. I picked up a 1/4 inch wrench it too said chrome vanadium steel, only problem was wrench was black. Some kinda trick or what? . You guys help me keep my boats running for sure. I am just a shadetree mechanic, jack of all trades MASTER OF NONE.

Thanks again!!!!

 

[jerryjerry05]

What bolts? Where?
Depending on where the bolts are??? I use a hammer, torch, PB Blaster , file, vice grips.
Start spraying the area and then heat and spray.
Spray and heat and tap with the hammer. Do this and keep trying to get the PB down into the threads.
The tapping will help loosen the stuff around the threads.
If you have room??? try to cut the head down to another size.
Or like Jiggz suggests cut them off if you have room.

 

[ferdly1]

I guess some pictures are in order. Here are the two problems I am facing. First is the hex head bolt next to engine block. Gonna try drilling the head off tomorrow. Bothers me because it is so close to the block. http://screencast.com/t/ZBRpcjodtjE Looks like there lots of room. Cowling in the way Have you guys ever try cutting bolt with a dremel. Second problem is the lower shock mount http://screencast.com/t/0xy6eM5I. This shock is hooked to spacer plate and cowling. I purchased a nutcracker but it was too big for the area. That mount is 90+ dollars each. Any ideas.

Jiggz , Jerry thanks for your input.

 

[Jiggz]

I do not understand why the bolt on the shock mount is hard to remove. It is so accessible and if the nut is rounded or stripped, just cut two lines opposite each other on the nut and break it open with a small chisel. Yes, you can use a dremel tool to cut bolts and nuts albeit you will be requiring many cutting discs to do so.

 

[ferdly1]

The shock mounted one is very accessible. Its just the stud is turning with the nut theres only rubber in between. Not worried about removing it just break the rubber mount in half. My concern is the 200 bucks for new mounts unless you know where I can get them cheaper. I was thinking of using the dremel on that bolt holding the adapter plate to power leg. The one I call the hex head bolt. Cant get anything on it. although the picture doesn't show it very close quarters. Cant even get vise grips on it.

 

[Jiggz]

No Title

I say just make a slice on the nut on the shock mount. It doesn't have to cut all the way through just enough to get past half way the thickness of the nut and then use a small chisel to finish it off. This should relieve the pressure off the nut and with the use of a vise grip you should be able to unscrew it. If not, then make another slice on the opposite side, use a chisel and the nut should be in two pieces. Remember you will make the cut on the face and NOT on the side of the nut. See pics. You also make the cut on the pointed side of the nut so as to give you more working space or area. I'm not sure what size bolt that is but if it looks like a regular stainless steel bolt, you can cut a little deeper but that will also cut through the threads. If this happens, just use a thread chaser or die to clean it up and reuse it or get another bolt.

As for the other bolt in a very tight space, patience is your friend on this one. You will just have to drill it out. First try to smooth the top with a dremel tool or even sand paper to make it even as much as possible. Using a center punch, punch it in the center. Start with a pilot drill bit, using an extension (rigid type NOT FLEXIBLE) for drill bits to get access. Drill about half an inch into it and then switch to a larger drill bit and larger until it is all gone. If the bolt is stainless you will need high carbon drill bits to do the job or use cobalt drill bits instead. Again nice and slow will do it. Goodluck.

 

[ferdly1]

Haven't tried to remove shock mount bolts yet but that is a good idea. I spent most of my time trying to drill out the hex bolt. This town has a shortage of proper bits. The bolt is stainless. I used a 3/8 inch titanium bit on it, but bit quickly dulled. I will have to special order the bits I need. However, I just rermembered an old acquaintance of mine has a shop and a torch. Taking motor there to possibly cut head off. Only problem , It will cost me a beer.

I really appreciate all the advice guys. Thanks again.!!!

 

[gm280]

If you are going to replace the bolts anyways, can you grind the heads off or use a Dremel type tool to cut the heads off? That would be a lot easier on the engine then heating them up to torch them off... IDK :noidea:

 

[Jiggz]

As I mentioned before, if they are stainless you will need at least cobalt drill bits to do the job. Those so called titanium bits are only titanium coated and not real solid titanium bits.

 

[ferdly1]

I learned a lot about drill bits. You are correct cobalt is the best. It seems like no one in this town carries cobalt bits without special order. I did however find a bit at tractor supply which enabled me to penetrate the bolt. I then switched to titanium. This was one of the worst drilling jobs i have ever done because of where the bolt was situated. But I did get it drilled out. I also drilled the motor mount bolts out, Tired of fooling around with this thing.

 

[ferdly1]

Ok I have a question. The engine is off and now I am back to trying to remove the kingpin in the swivel bracket. http://screencast.com/t/iXrJCV2ElEP In this picture is the kingpin, it allows the motor to pivot left and right. The lower cowl seems to be held on by this king pin. Do I pry cowl off first or try to pound kingpin down thru the cowling. Second? http://screencast.com/t/TaNrOMYK This is the lower part of the kingpin. I believe the kingpin is part of the swivel assembly. Do I need to remove midsection from swivel assembly to remove kingpin.

 

[Frank Acampora]

You have it backwards: The lower cowl holds the top of the kingpin. Typically, on other big engines you pound the kingpin down after first removing the two plates on the side holding it. You should need to pry the bottom out to clear the midleg unless there is a hole in the midleg to pass the kingpin. Then, the whole swivel assembly comes off and you need to drive the kingpin out of the yoke. It may be tight because corrosion will decrease the size of the hole on the yoke, squeezing the two plastic collars against the kingpin. Thus, if you are removing it because of hard or no steering, you need to clean the yoke well and ream the two plastic bushings back to size to clear the kingpin.

 

[ferdly1]

Thanks Frank!!! So the The lower cowl holds the top of the kingpin yea I see that now. So I will need to pry the lower cowl up to clear the kingpin. Just tried with flatbar. No luck. Guess I am gonna have to get a crowbar and try again. Yes i am removing kingpin due to corrosion. It barely swivels. Once lower cowl is removed, the only way I see to remove kingpin is to beat it up or down. There are two plates near bottom of kinpin which. holds bottom of kingpin to midsection. I am gonna remove them. Problem right now is removing lower cowl. Trying to be gentle. But it is tight.

















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[ferdly1]

Hey Frank! I was removing lower bolts that holds midsection to Kingpin when the midsection dropped to ground. Glad my big bare feet weren't in the way. Lol! Lower cowl still attached to kingpin. Should come off when i pound kingpin down thru bracket. Lots of corrosion inside. No way to clean or lube. Wish me luck!

 

[ferdly1]

Mission accomplished. Kingpin has been removed.

Thanks for everyones help.

 

[Jiggz]

I wish you had posted pics of your work with the kingpin. It will be very helpful for others who might have the same problem. Or maybe while it is disassembled and during assembly might also be helpful. Thanks.