Rustoleum paint job sucks!!! Bad advice?

[BuzzStPoint]

Re: Rustoleum paint job sucks!!! Bad advice?

I painted the lower and mid section of my fiberglass hull..

All I did was take a 100 grid sandpaper and power sander. Lightly scuffed up the surface. Wiped off.
With the rustolium I thinned with paint thinner. Then I used a 4 inch white foam roller.

Applied to the boat. When thinned I didn't have to tip it. Apply thin coats. Next day I did a recoat. After about 7 days something like that. I took the boat out and I have no paint problems at all.

 

[DANZIG]

Re: Rustoleum paint job sucks!!! Bad advice?

Has anyone attemptted to spray the Rusto?

How much thinning did it take??

 

[xltom]

Re: Rustoleum paint job sucks!!! Bad advice?

waterdog, Yeah I would say at the least it's not foolproof...If I was rustoleum I'd buy some of that penetrol stuff and put it in my paint, and something to make it cure faster...You shouldn't have to work so hard for a decent finish...I'll stick to spray paint from now on.

 

[Isaacm1986]

Re: Rustoleum paint job sucks!!! Bad advice?

I sprayed the paint on mine. Bought a cheap HVLP sprayer from harbor freight and thinned the paint with penetrol. It worked great!

 

[Isaacm1986]

Re: Rustoleum paint job sucks!!! Bad advice?

Isaacm1986,

will you come paint my truck? That's a great paintjob...you can see clouds in it. mine looks terrible compared to that. Fortunately mine is just a little dingy. I just wanted to stop the leaks and protect the gluvit.

Thanks!

It took a LOT of work. 1 coat every 24 hours, with wet sanding between each coat. 21ft is a long way to go around with a hand sander! I am very happy with how it turned out. Well worth all the extra work.

 

[ajgraz]

Re: Rustoleum paint job sucks!!! Bad advice?

I painted the lower and mid section of my fiberglass hull..

All I did was take a 100 grid sandpaper and power sander. Lightly scuffed up the surface. Wiped off.
With the rustolium I thinned with paint thinner. Then I used a 4 inch white foam roller.

Applied to the boat. When thinned I didn't have to tip it. Apply thin coats. Next day I did a recoat. After about 7 days something like that. I took the boat out and I have no paint problems at all.

I'm currently doing the same with my small fiberglass trailer boat, with the exception that I'm waiting at least a week between coats, and it will be at least a few months after final coat before the boat hits the water (while I rewire and reupholster).

 

[Bondo]

Re: Rustoleum paint job sucks!!! Bad advice?

Rustoleum paint job sucks!!! Bad advice?

Ayuh,... I've shot Allota paint since the 70s,...
Ain't none of it truely Hardened, aka; Dry for aleast a Month....

The acrylics of the 70s,... Right up through the 2-pt urethanes of today,...
You can drive the car/ truck in a hour or so,.. But the paint Ain't cured for a month...

Rustoleum is probably the Finest enamal paint you can buy,...
But it's still gotta Cure....

 

[Lion hunter]

Re: Rustoleum paint job sucks!!! Bad advice?

I had to spray mine. Temps were to high and I couldn't keep up with the working time. You can see the results in my thread below. It does take some time to fully cure but once it does I have been pretty impressed. I travel some gravel roads to where I fish and it has held up better than the paint on my truck.

Edit: I thinned according to the directions on the can and it worked great. Make sure you read the can as different colrs required different thinners. Acetone was the main one if I recall. And don't waste your money on the environmentally friendly thinners. They are junk.

 

[BuzzStPoint]

Re: Rustoleum paint job sucks!!! Bad advice?

I'm currently doing the same with my small fiberglass trailer boat, with the exception that I'm waiting at least a week between coats, and it will be at least a few months after final coat before the boat hits the water (while I rewire and reupholster).

I wouldn't think you have to wait that long between coats.

I think the most important thing is to make sure the paint isn't too thick, and you scuff up the surface before you paint. And a light scuff/sand between coats.

 

[ajgraz]

Re: Rustoleum paint job sucks!!! Bad advice?

I wouldn't think you have to wait that long between coats.

I think the most important thing is to make sure the paint isn't too thick, and you scuff up the surface before you paint. And a light scuff/sand between coats.

A week between coats has more to do with working on it when I can than working on it when I'd like.

I'd still wait at least 2-3 days in any case.

 

[reelfishin]

Re: Rustoleum paint job sucks!!! Bad advice?

I've done a few with Rustoleum, and a few with MAB Rustolastic. Both came out great. The MAB is a bit harder finish when it's all dried.
I sand, prime bare spots with Zinc Chromate self etching primer, then if the boat isn't all one color at that point, I'll lightly sand, dust on a light coat of sandable primer, sand out any imperfections, wait a few hours, and paint with a firm foam roller. I apply one light coat, then after a week in the sun, I'll sand it lightly, and recoat it. Then let it sit for a good week or two in the sun to harden and cure properly. They come out looking like a spray job. Don't thin the paint, don't use a fuzzy roller, and sand between each coat. I'm about to do my 18' this fall, it'll get stripped to bare metal, primed, and repainted completely in bright white Rustolastic Enamel. I've actually been quite amazed at how well either paint resists chips and scratches when properly applied. I think letting the hull sit outside in the sun for a week really helps cure the paint too. It also gets a few washings before the next step after it sits for the week outdoors.

 

[-DannyBoy-]

Re: Rustoleum paint job sucks!!! Bad advice?

Isaac,

Would you be willing to share the color you used on the bottom of your boat? I love how it turned out with a metal finish where you can still see all the rivets and what not, assuming it's paint!? I honestly can hardly tell, it looks like its powder coated! Thats awesome.

 

[reelfishin]

Re: Rustoleum paint job sucks!!! Bad advice?

Here's an example of one I did last summer, its done with MAB Rust-O-Lastic enamel, it was stripped to bare aluminum, primed with zinc chromate primer, sanded, then painted over with the gray finish coat. It was to be used for camping to haul extra gear but I ended up selling it when I found another boat that fit the bill better.

The finish, other than the various dings and dents in the aluminum looked great, it withstood many trips to the lake with no paint loss, even beaching the boat didn't scratch the paint hardly at all. Certainly nothing you would notice. I was amazed at how well it held up.

Getting any paint to stick is a matter of good prep work. The surface has to be clean and free of any lint, grease, or dust.

I use those 4" super cheap rollers from Harbor Freight, I buy a lot of extra rollers and change out the roller often as they get out of shape easy. The only thing I've found better is a hard black foam roller like is often used for glue or super smooth surfaces. The hard roller though can make it tough to get into curves and recesses around rivets.

When you all done, the paint also shouldn't look like the boat was coated with tar, the rivets should all show just fine. If the rivets aren't showing, you put on way too much paint and it will never dry or cure properly.

 

[CheapboatKev]

Re: Rustoleum paint job sucks!!! Bad advice?

Here's an example of one I did last summer, its done with MAB Rust-O-Lastic enamel, it was stripped to bare aluminum, primed with zinc chromate primer, sanded, then painted over with the gray finish coat. It was to be used for camping to haul extra gear but I ended up selling it when I found another boat that fit the bill better.

The finish, other than the various dings and dents in the aluminum looked great, it withstood many trips to the lake with no paint loss, even beaching the boat didn't scratch the paint hardly at all. Certainly nothing you would notice. I was amazed at how well it held up.

Getting any paint to stick is a matter of good prep work. The surface has to be clean and free of any lint, grease, or dust.

I use those 4" super cheap rollers from Harbor Freight, I buy a lot of extra rollers and change out the roller often as they get out of shape easy. The only thing I've found better is a hard black foam roller like is often used for glue or super smooth surfaces. The hard roller though can make it tough to get into curves and recesses around rivets.

When you all done, the paint also shouldn't look like the boat was coated with tar, the rivets should all show just fine. If the rivets aren't showing, you put on way too much paint and it will never dry or cure properly.

Did you forget a pic Reel???

 

[Kiwifisher]

Re: Rustoleum paint job sucks!!! Bad advice?

As with most other things in life, the quality of your paint job depends entirely on the amount of effort you put into the prep work. Most paints would give you a minimum and maximum time for self coating ie how long to wait before applying the second coat. If you apply the second coat within this time frame, the second coat forms a chemical bond with the previous coat and you get one thick layer of paint. It is then also not required to sand between coats.

If you wait longer than the maximum time, the second coat only forms a mechanical bond and you have 2 thin coats of paint. Most paint manufacturers will then instruct you to lightly sand the 1st coat with 80 grit paper so that the mechanical bond will be stronger.

It makes sense to try and plan painting so that all coats can be applied within the self-coat time recommended. Unfortunately that's not always practical as we all know

 

[vegasphotoman]

Re: Rustoleum paint job sucks!!! Bad advice?

scuff ith 600 or 800...the paint needs something to adhere to..... either way rustoleaum is a great product, I used it in my bilge over fiberglass. I t holds up to oil, fuel, extended water...great product for sure. keep at it...you'll get it!

 

[DJ]

Re: Rustoleum paint job sucks!!! Bad advice?

I use the Interlux or Pettit ONE PART epoxies. Interlux name is "Brightside".

You need a Zinc Chromate primer for aluminum.

Both those products will dry-very hard-but not in three days.

You'll have to deal with LV summer Temps. I live in Phoenix, that meant painting the boat at 2:00 am. I used the "roll/tip" method on all of them. The paints flow out very nicely. You may have to thin them slightly if it is HOT!

 

[CheapboatKev]

Re: Rustoleum paint job sucks!!! Bad advice?

I would comment to DJs post that.
You only need ZC if you are painting BARE aluminum.

And I hear ya on the hot..When I was painting the bow, the paint was cooking as soon as it hit the tin..when its too hot to lean against without a 2nd degree burn..its too hot to paint!

 

[Jim Marshall]

Re: Rustoleum paint job sucks!!! Bad advice?

The only experience I have had with Rustoleum was spraying an air compressor with a Devilbiss gun on an air compressor. I thought it ran easily and was not much of a product at that.

I would favor the epoxies and auto enamels. Anyone had similar experiences?

Jim

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: Rustoleum paint job sucks!!! Bad advice?

Hello m8s..

aluminum ...

Im going to put this on a pro point of view..

You want to paint aluminum .. heres how ( the only correct way that I know how ).

1. Clean the crap out of the surface ( or consider sand blasting ).

2. ALUMIPREP !

3. ALODINE !

4. ZINC CHROMATE PRIMER ( yes the yellow stuff that is expensive ) !

5. 2 part epoxy primer.. ( 545 works well ).

6. Prep/scuff.

7. Use a quality paint ( awl-grip LP is the ticket .. or Sterling.. same stuff ).

8. Yes.. IMHO Rusto sucks and alot more products out there that Claim to be as good suck.

Depends on your pocket book and what your trying to do.. this is the pro way .. not intended for diy pockets. Only for Quality...

YD.