Saltwater Anodes

[tablerockboater]

Because we lost our last pontoon to galvanic corrosion, I put five new anodes on our new-to-us pontoon in December. Instead of mooring it in the (saltwater) canal, we launch it at a public ramp. I washed it down and flushed it thoroughly after each use.

But, the anodes have begun to sacrifice all the same.

What I'm wondering is if I can grind away the layer that has sacrificed, getting them down to smooth and shiny, and keep using the same anodes?

 

[dingbat]

What type anodes are you using?
How long did the wear process take?

 

[tpenfield]

It is good when the anodes sacrifice, because it means that the other metals are not.

 

[Scott Danforth]

anodes are a sacrificial member that gets replaced once every year or 6 months depending on what is needed.

 

[Scott06]

Anodes are supposed to be replaced when half consumed, so grinding them down will only speed that process. As others stated , the pitting and erosion means they are working they don't need to be smooth to work.

Are you using the correct anodes for salt water? I believe zinc is still considered the best for salt water.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Anodes are supposed to be replaced when half consumed, so grinding them down will only speed that process. As others stated , the pitting and erosion means they are working they don't need to be smooth to work.

Are you using the correct anodes for salt water? I believe zinc is still considered the best for salt water.

zinc works the best, aluminum lasts longer. I would use zinc

 

[tablerockboater]

Anodes are supposed to be replaced when half consumed, so grinding them down will only speed that process. As others stated , the pitting and erosion means they are working they don't need to be smooth to work.

Are you using the correct anodes for salt water? I believe zinc is still considered the best for salt water.

Regarding "zincs" v. aluminum alloy, have you looked into that lately? There's plenty of information on Al Gore's Internet that the US Navy discovered that zinc fails quickly in salt and brackish water, so they have switched to aluminum. The original zincs for our pontoon now have aluminum or zinc replacements. I replaced all three originals and added two fairly large teardrops to the (pontoon) transom. The aluminum replacements for the originals are not readily available, and I ordered them from Boatzincs.com . . . excellent service!!!!

US Navy invents zinc-free anode enhanced by ‘very small addition of tin’​

Technology for Innovative Entrepreneurs & Businesses | TechLink

techlinkcenter.org

By the way, it's really hard to convince my wife that if we want to make our pontoon last, then we should not leave it moored in the very-convenient canal we live on, especially when you see so many pontoons moored in saltwater slips.

 

[Scott Danforth]

used to work in the yachting world where we would do calculations to determine how many dozens of these . https://www.boatzincs.com/dp-612.html or these https://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/undrilled-bolt-plate-zinc-anodes would get bolted to the hull

yes, magnesium and aluminum lasts longer, however zinc is still more sacrificial. I would still go with zinc and replace them often

 

[dingbat]

The best "zinc" depends on what material(s) your trying to protect and whether or not shore power is involved.

Here is a break down by motor and drive type

https://boatzincs.com/pdfs/Chart_B-Which_Anodes_Should_I_Use.pdf

 

[Scott Danforth]

here you go