Saved From the Garbage Man

[Landscaping Wiz 808]

So yesterday my next door neighbor decided he was going to clean out his garage at some ungodly hour of the morning. After a couple of cups of coffee I went over to see if I could help (scavenge anything). Turns out he had uncovered an old outboard his dad used to use many, many years ago. He was just going to throw it out so I ended up bringing it over to my side of the fence...along with other assorted cool items.

Does anyone know if it's water or air cooled? Are any parts or manuals available? Who manufactured the engine? Here are some pictures and further information:

Model # 5D10A
Serial # 426287
5.0 hp @ 4,000 RPM
Fuel/oil mix instructions

More to follow - BOB

 

[Landscaping Wiz 808]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

So when I got it home I started tearing it apart. This is as far as I got:

The recoil mechanism isn't working at all. I disassembled it and found the recoil spring was very rusty, but still in operable condition. There is a small spring missing on one of the tabs here. Do you think a small engine/lawnmower shop could put a new spring in and get it to work?

Pulled the plugs to do a compression test and found rust on the bottom of the plugs! Does this mean a bad head gasket?

Performed compression test using a ratchet & socket on the flywheel and the results are questionable at best.
Cyl1 - 42lbs
Cyl2 - 34lbs

So now my question is: Is it worth working on at all? If I can find the parts (carb kit, impeller, manual, etc.) I figure I'll give it a shot.

BOB

 

[JB]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

Cool looking outboard, Bob.

Water cooled twin. Probably 3-5HP. Not familiar with either Atlas Marine or Royal, but it looks like a good outboard, worth fixin' up to get a lot of attention at the launch/marina.

 

[rolmops]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

Atlas Royal is a Gale Product.Atlas was a distribution company.
The company existed from 1947 to 1956.They were out of Newark, New Jersey and sold to Esso and Standard oil retailers.
Yours is either a 3 or a 5.That little spring is available through OMC.

 

[ohm116]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

Yeah its a Gale 5 hp from the early 50's 51-54 if I remember correctly, same as my Gale Buccaneer. The carb is pretty simple, just clean it out and it should be fine. The ignition is all standard OMC coils, points and condensers. The impeller is the same as used in the 50-53 Johnson TN 5hp.

 

[steelespike]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

That is based on the Gale 5D10 51-54 Gale was a devision of omc.It has a neutral clutch
If it has plastic molded coils it shares ignition parts with some E/J motors.
Also uses a similar impeller.More to follow.

 

[Landscaping Wiz 808]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

This is GREAT news! Does this mean I can use the same service manual? If so, does anyone know where I can get one?

steelespike - The motor does have plastic coils and a neutral clutch. My model # is 5D10A, I guess the A is for Atlas.

ohm116 - How does yours run?

Thanks guys, today's update to follow.

BOB

 

[Landscaping Wiz 808]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

5/3 Update:

After work I started at the motor again. First I drained the oil out of the lower unit and was glad to see it still actually looked like oil and not milk!

Then I decided to try to get to the impeller. I removed the four bolts that hold on the lower and it came off easily. The gasket is in good shape so I'm planning on reusing it.

The driveshaft and clutch assembly seem to be in good shape.

I removed the four screws shown here to try to gain access to the impeller, but the driveshaft is holding it tightly. I suspect I'll have to remove the power head to get it to drop. UGH!! Before I go through all that, am I right that the impeller is on the other side of this plate?

Last question: Where is the water intake? My other motors have them under the cavitation plate. Thanks again - BOB

 

[ohm116]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

My motor runs pretty good, I need to redope the float though. What is holding your shaft in is probably the cable for the clutch. Loosen the screw that holds it onto the lever so that it well slide out. Also there is a compression nut that holds the water pickup tube onto the cavitation plate, gently pull down and with a box end reach in a loosen the nut, after that the whole thing should just wiggle out. I have a copy of the factory manual that I can send scans from if needed, I just need to find it

 

[Landscaping Wiz 808]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

I have a copy of the factory manual that I can send scans from if needed, I just need to find it

That would be GREAT!!! I'd also like to get my own manual if you know where to find one. Thanks again ohm!

BOB

 

[ohm116]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

I found mine on Ebay, it is actually the Wards factory service manual, or at least that is whats on the cover, at the very start is a model number cross reference to the actual Gale model numbers and it is all Gale from there on. As mentioned, when I find where I put mine, PM me with you email address and what you want scanned and I well try and get that for you.

 

[freddyray21]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

5/3 Update:



I removed the four screws shown here to try to gain access to the impeller, but the driveshaft is holding it tightly. I suspect I'll have to remove the power head to get it to drop. UGH!! Before I go through all that, am I right that the impeller is on the other side of this plate?

Last question: Where is the water intake? My other motors have them under the cavitation plate. Thanks again - BOB

You do not need to remove the power head. the plate that held the four screws holds the water pump housing. They did not need to come out at least for now, but it did not hurt anything. The plate should just pull off unless the driveshaft if frozen in the power head. You motor is a 5 hp http://www.maxrules.com/graphics/ej_pdf/EJ_Pages_30_Thru_32.pdf and actually the same motor as my Spiegel. Just branded different. The water intake is up under the cav plate.

 

[freddyray21]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

btw check your guage. Mine had 90 lbs in both cylinders and runs sweet. If your's does indeed have 45 lbs you can try a decarb it, but it it does not come up then you are wasting your time fixing it imo. Those are an odd little motor with no head to take off. The cylinders and head are all cast in one piece.

 

[freddyray21]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

one more thing on the compression. It could and may well be stuck rings. put some pb blaster or marvel mystery oil in the plug holes and let it sit plug wholes up for a day or so then recheck the compression.

 

[fakeplay]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

Even if it doesn't run it's worth fixing for posterity.

 

[Bard1]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

Nice score!

 

[Landscaping Wiz 808]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

Thanks for the responses everyone!

fakeplay - I agree! Besides, I'm too far into it now to turn back!

freddyray21 - I'm hoping the compression will come up and even out after a PB Blaster treatment. I talked to my neighbor today and he said that this motor hasn't been used in at least 25 years, so I'm hoping a good spark and some fresh fuel will raise the compression too.

On to today's update 5/5/09:

ohm116 - I did like you suggested and released the cable from the stay. I clamped a visegrip on the end so I wouldn't have to thread it back through the leg during reassembly.

I did have to remove the 4 screws, but with the extra slack in the cable I was able to remove and pivot the plate out of the way.

After that the water pump housing and driveshaft came out with no problems.

I put both in the vise and began disassembly.

Take a look at this mess!

I can salvage the rubber grommet and the pin & plate are in re-usable condition. Obviously I'm going to need a new impeller. Does anyone know of one that'll fit properly? When I straightened the fins and measured the old one is about 3" across. The housing has 302318 on it if that helps.

Carburetor update follows.
BOB

 

[Landscaping Wiz 808]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

5/5/09 Continued:

I decided to dig into the carburetor next. I removed the 7(!!!) bolts, slid her off, and this is what I found...YIKES!!!

Turns out the thin aluminum flaps (I suppose they're valves of some sort) had decomposed pretty badly! Were these carbs used on any other outboards and are ANY replacement parts available?

I continued to tinker and took the cap to the fuel bowl and filter off and tapped out a nice pile of rusty powder.

The cork float is in pretty rough shape too.

So I'm going to need some serious help here. I NEED replacement parts bad! Really only the flap/valve things and cork float if they're available. I think this thing is going to need to soak in something a little stronger than Seafoam. Any suggestions?

Again, thanks so much for all the advice and help so far...PLEASE keep it coming!

BOB

 

[ohm116]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

It probably would have been easier to pull the cable out, especially when you go to put it back together, the cable just slides through the brass tube to the top and you can regrease it at the same time. You can get the impeller from Vintage Outboard, http://www.vintageoutboard.com look in the Johnson Evenrude section, their part number for it is 375688, I think iboats also has one but I am not sure of the part number. The metal valves are the reed valves for controlling the flow of fuel to each cylinder, not sure where you can get new ones, might look on EBay and see if some one has a carb for sale with the valves, someone here might have one as well to sell you. The float can be hand made if needed, just need to get a piece of cork and either turn it in a lathe, or freehand it if you are good and then dope it with fuel proof dope, like the stuff made for model airplanes, also if you look in a post I have further down in this forum titled, Non-Floating Float another member explains a way to modify a Mercury float as a substitute.

 

[freddyray21]

Re: Saved From the Garbage Man

if you don't want to replace the float if it is not crumbling then you can sand it and recoat it with fuel dope. Take the whole carb apart and soak it. I have another one of those carbs, but the fuel shutoff is at the tank and not at the carb like yours is. The parts would interchange though.