Saw questions and opinions.

[Tnstratofam]

Here are some pics of the Crafstman. I would like to fix it up if it's worth it. If not surely all that cast iron is worth something to somebody.








In the last picture you can see the top needs some attention. What should I do to recondition this saw, and or is it worth fooling with. The saw was given to me a few years ago by an old landlord so it isn't something I cant part with.

 

[JASinIL2006]

I have an old Craftsman table saw just like that. A little attention with steel wool to get rid of the rust, then a good coat of wax and it should be fine. Those things are built like tanks. I think they are a little underpowered for big jobs (esp. ripping hardwoods) and the rip fence isn't the best. If nothing else, you could clean it up and sell it for a few bucks. As you probably know, those things are build like tanks; the table is a big hunk of steel!

 

[gm280]

tnstratofam, that exact Craftsman table saw you posted the pictures of is the same table saw I rebuilt. I put a new trunnion, bearings, motor, link belt and built table extensions to allow me to lay 4' by 8' sheet goods on it and cut. I also built a solid base to turn it into a cabinet type saw setup. I then installed the 50" Biesemeyer fence to cap it off. And believe me that old saw still has many many decades left in it yet... I need to get some pictures of my setup and you can see what THAT saw can turn into... Don't throw it away. It is a very good base saw. I have zero needs to ever replace it! The top can be made to look like new with just a little elbow grease like previously stated. And some wax will keep it that way and make the cutting slide like it is on ball bearings... If you tried to purchase a new saw with that type cast iron top, you will see the prices sky rocket quickly.

 

[MTboatguy]

Do not throw that saw away, you will be very sorry, that is the same saw I have and I would not sell it for anything, with the new fence and the link belt drive belt it is a dream to use, good quality and not expensive to work on when it needs attention, just steel wool the top and rub it down with some good quality wax, it will last forever.

The belt you want to put on it is this:

http://www.rockler.com/1-2-power-twist-plus-link-v-belt

Harbor Freight carries the same belt except in green, makes it a very smooth running saw.

 

[gm280]

MTboatguy, YES that IS the exact same link belt I installed. It literally take all the vibration out of the running saw. And it has yet to give me any issues. You can make so many blade inserts with some thin plywood or even Lexan material for that Craftsman table saw. I make lots of them so when I install a dado blade, I can still have a zero clearance setup. I use an 8" stack dado blade kit that I bought really cheap from Lowes because the actual cardboard cover sleeve that slid over the wooden box they come in was torn. So they offered it to me for a song and I took it. It has inside and outside carbine cutter blades with different size stackable inserts and shims to make virtually any width dado. It works like magic and doesn't induce any vibration like a wobble dado cutters can and does. And the bottom cut is smooth and flat unlike a variable wobble dado blade cuts.

 

[Tnstratofam]

It's good to hear that I can turn the old Craftsman into a good saw. Thanks for the link to the belt mt. I'll have to check into getting a belt, and like I said I don't have a rip fence for this saw. Gm I had thought about building a cabinet with flip out wings for this saw. I saw a good example in a family handy man magazine. Right now I have the blade lowered all the way down, and am simply storing stuff on it. I guess it's time to see about rebuilding her, and putting her back to use.

So where should I check on a fence system? Or should I wait until I see about building a cabinet for it?

I'm still watching cl for a good 12 inch miter saw, and a few other tools I would like to get. One other thing I'm curious about is what kind of blades do most of you use? I have been using Dewalt blades from lowes.

 

[MTboatguy]

For a fence system, check on ebay, there are all kinds of them out there, do some reading on them. As far as blades, it really depends on what I am doing, I have used everything from the cheap home depot to the expensive specialty blades. For general purpose work, I normally have a Milwaukee blade on my saw.

 

[Tnstratofam]

One thing is for sure that cast iron table saw is HEAVY! I added some casters to the base just to make it easier to move around my shop.

 

[MTboatguy]

One thing is for sure that cast iron table saw is HEAVY! I added some casters to the base just to make it easier to move around my shop.

That is what you want, heavy, the heavier the better, less vibration equals truer cuts, add a good fence and you get as close to a perfect cut as you can, if you are working on cabinets, it makes a big difference in fit and finish.

 

[gm280]

I will get some pictures toady and post them. And YES that saw is heavy. But that IS exactly what you want on a quality table saw. That helps in two ways. First, it make the saw sound and keeps adjustments secure after the initial setup. They just won't vibrate loose or change. Secondly, it make it a ton easier to push wood through without the saw moving. Casters are great IF they can be made to lock when in use. If you are seriously going to move the saw around (not the best idea) then get some dual locking casters so once you have it setup to where you are working, you lock the casters and it won't move an inch. A moveable table saw will have to be checked occasionally to make very sure everything is lined up with the dados in the cast iron top pertaining to the blade and fence... That is the most important issue. If you could fine a really good stationary place to set it up, that would be that best. But you have to have room on all four sides to get the best capability from such a setup. My table saw is the actual center of my shop. And all my other stationary power tools are setup around it. That way I can cut most anything without ever moving the table saw OR interfering with the surround tools. Plan out you shop layout for the best usage of all your tools. Oh table saw blades... I have used so many different brands but mostly settle with carbine teeth Freud thin kerf blades for the most part. They make lower end economy blades as well as the higher end types. Just pick a good blade and see what you like. I seems to go for the thin kerf blades to help save waste and the creation of sawdust... JMHO!

 

[MTboatguy]

Well gm280 your JMHO is exactly the same as mine, one thing I will add, when you get your saw set up, either buy or make some thin kerf inserts and get away for the wide inserts included with the saw, it makes a world of difference when cutting cabinet materials, I can tell you how many pieces of wood I have ruined over the years with the standard saw insert!

 

[Tnstratofam]

That makes sense when you think about it. A heavier saw will not vibrate as bad therefor won't get out of calibration as often. As far as finding a permanent place to set up the table saw, that is what my overall plan is. Where my Staros is parked right now is where I plan on setting up the saw. That makes it the center of my work area, but leaves me room to park around it when I'm not running it. Here are a couple more pics of what I'm working with.

My miter/chop saw and stand.



The area to the right of the saw in this next pic is where I'm planning on building a permanent work table for the miter saw with storage underneath.



My ancient drill press.


Last but not least here is one of the projects the Admiral has me on right now. Adding a jacuzzi tub, and a custom bathroom.



This project has been the driving reason behind me wanting to upgrade my tools. I am doing all the finish work, and am going to build some custom features into this bathroom. Such as a pocket door, built in cabinets for storage, as well as adding a flat screen so she can soak in her tub and relax while I surf iboats looking for other ways to spend our money on our boats.

 

[gm280]

Ha, good area to work in I'd say. Here are some pictures of my presently cluttered up shop. I am working so many little side projects besides the Tom Boy boat presently that it is in serious need of clean up. I can't really work in clutter. So obviously I have to go in there and clean for a full day as I usually do every few weeks... But I wanted to show you what that Craftsman 10" cast iron topped table saw looks like with table extensions and a base... The laminated top and extensions is actually one welded together piece I designed to fit extremely snug all the way around the cast iron top of the saw and then bolted onto the saw table. I used 1" by 1" square tubing for the entire frame and supports and legs and then 3/4" MDF bolted to that frame with recessed carriage bolts! Then I laminated the white counter top material via Weld Wood contact adhesive. The legs have threaded feet so I could level it from all directions. The color I painted everything was a copy of Jet's paint color for their power tools. I took a part off my Jet jointer and had Lowes mix up a gallon of oil base paint to match. And so all my custom made benches and cabinets (on the left side of the pictures, hard to actual see them) are of that same color on the bases, with the counter tops and bench tops made out of laminated pine 2" by 2" butter-block style tops. That way I can re-sand them and recoat them with a few coats of poly clear coat as they get scratched and gouged. Your saw can be rebuilt to be like new...












I threw in my router table modified from the New Yankee Work Shop version...

 

[MTboatguy]

Nice set up GM.

 

[Tnstratofam]

I think Norm would be proud of that router table. Okay so if I'm looking at it right you have a large table to work material through your table saw. That's what I want to build. A table saw that can handle larger pieces. Do you have a feed table, and a receiver table? My plan on my work station on my back wall will include a router station, as well as a spot for a lathe at the end. I'm playing around in my head with the idea of a lathe that is on a platform that will rotate to reveal a flat work table. Just a thought I have. It may not be doable, but it would be neat. I also have a plan to have a grinder/polisher that rotates under the work table when not in use. I've seen one in a shop that works good. I really do appreciate all the info and advice. I'll keep you all posted on my upgrades, and on the purchase of any new saws.

 

[MTboatguy]

Hey, gm280 what are you using for dust collection, that is going to be my next purchase is a dust collection system.

 

[Tnstratofam]

Yeah that is a good question. Currently I move my shop vac around from tool to tool, and that never really works to well. I usually end up spending the last 10 minutes of my work days in the shop vacuuming up all the sawdust.

 

[gm280]

Oh yes dust collection... Presently I use two shop vacs and work around with them. I even setup my table saw with an output to a shop vac. And I installed a circuit that turns on the vac when I turn on the table saw. And it runs for about 15 seconds longer when I turn the saw off to suck the dust out of the connecting hose. However, with the back of the table saw wide open, I can't draw much of any vacuum to collect the saw dust very efficiently. I do have plans for a nice huge dust collection system that will solve all my dust issues with power collection gates that come on when you turn on each particular power tool. That way I don't have to move or open dust gates manually. So that is a future purchase and already in the plan. So I too usually take a day and dust and clean everything up before proceeding to the next project presently. But the fix is planned....soon I hope! And as you can see in the pictures I posted, the radial saw and chop saw are on the same side of the shop. I have plans for a bench to incorporate those two saw into on build in thereby making both use one long back fence. I will allow the chop saw to be removed for taking it to other locations, but when returned it will fit perfectly with the radial arm saw fence enabling long wood to be used at either station. And the base of that cabinet will allow me to store the large number of cased power hand tools I have. In one of the pictures you can see lots of cases sitting aside the table saw. I have so many that I need the cabinet to get them off the floor, but also easy to get too.

tnstratofam, With the exception of the color, looks like your Black and Decker chop saw is identical to the 12" DeWalt. I guess that shouldn't be a real surprise being how DeWalt bought Black and Decker.

 

[Woodonglass]

I think the Makita 5740NB with the 1/4" aluminum base plate is one of the finest Circ. Saws ever Made. And I agree that the 12" Non Sliding Dewalt is about all you could ever need. I DO like my old Craftsman RAS for making DADOS in 4x4 Stock!!! I have the Grizzly 2 HP 10" Hybrid Table Saw, 8" Grizzly Jointer 1942 Craftsman 40" lathe 14" Delta Bandsaw, 9" Craftsman Benchtop Band Saw 6x9 Belt Disc Sander Oscillating Spindle sander 12 1/2 Grizzly Planer 9" Benchtop Drill Press 2HP HF Dust Collector and a bunch of 1/4" and 1/2" routers Sanders etc... 40+ years of accumulation of woodworking STUFF!!!!

 

[Tnstratofam]

Wog I had a feeling your tool selection would rival my high school wood working shop, and it would seem that is the case. I am currently saving my dinero for a new miter saw. I was thinking a slider would allow for a greater variety of stock to be cut, and it would almost eliminate the need for a radial arm saw as I could use my table saw for dados. However after thinking about it a radial arm saw is easier to set up for dados in most situations.


I am looking for a Makita circ saw. Several woodworkers much smarter than me have recommended them as the best for the money.