Say, outboard wrenches. Check this out.

JB · Oct 23, 2003

We are working on answers to some FAQs. Will the following lead a novice to the point that he needs to deal with his particular outboard to go further? Outboard Wont Start: 1. Electric start: Does the starter engage and rotate the flywheel at a good (normal) speed? If yes, go to 2. * Does starter spin, but bendix gear (small gear on starter shaft) does not engage the flywheel? Lubricate bendix spiral shaft. * Does the solenoid click? * If yes, measure voltage at the starter terminal to battery ground with starter engaged. * If 12 V, repair or replace starter. * If less than 9V measure voltage at large solenoid input terminal (from battery). * If less than 9V, go to 3. If 12V, replace solenoid. * Solenoid does not click when key is turned to start. Measure voltage at small solenoid terminal. * 0 volts? Troubleshoot kill switch (lanyard connected?), battery, starter switch and neutral start switch in controller. * 12 volts? Replace solenoid. 2. Flywheel rotates but engine does not attempt to start. Electric and manual start. * Remove a spark plug, reconnect it and hold it against engine block. Does it make a hot, blue spark when attempting to start? If no, troubleshoot ignition system. * Has hot, blue spark. Squirt some fuel mix (NOT ether) into the carb(s). Does it attempt to start? * If yes, you have inadequate fuel. Troubleshoot fuel system and review starting procedure. * If no, check that carb is not flooding from failed float needle. * Still wont attempt to start. Check compression. If bad, troubleshoot mechanicals. * Good compression on all cylinders. Check flywheel for sheared key, check crankcase for sealing at carb(s), inlet manifold and bypass covers. 3. Low voltage at starter when engaged. * Measure voltage at battery terminals. If below 12.6 volts with all electrics turned off, recharge or replace battery. * Measure battery voltage with starter engaged. If below 9 volts, recharge or replace battery. * Remove and clean connections on battery-to-solenoid cable, battery-to-engine block cable and solenoid-to-starter cable. While they are off, inspect each for corrosion, broken insulation with corrosion and weak points. Replace corroded or weak cables. * If problem persists, remove starter and clean all surfaces where engine block and starter connect. END OF FAQ. We would appreciate your comments and suggestions. Thanks.

rickdb1boat · Oct 23, 2003

Re: Say, outboard wrenches. Check this out.

Sounds like a good start to me!

bubbakat · Oct 23, 2003

Re: Say, outboard wrenches. Check this out.

sounds like a good base to start from

rodbolt · Oct 23, 2003

Re: Say, outboard wrenches. Check this out.

Hello looks pretty good just most mid ninties OMC v6 loopers only had 80 psi when new on the compression. first one I hit I went and borrowed a tester cause I thought mine was bad. jood job and post it up.JB if you want email me some time at rodbolt40@yahoo.com. i have been doing this stupid mechanics thing for about 30 years also did the CNC lathe and mill programming as well as an electronics tech in the US NAVY. I would love the chance to put together a post to help others.

good luck and keep posting

wtrojan · Oct 23, 2003

Re: Say, outboard wrenches. Check this out.

JB, as a beginner myself I can tell you thats an excellent advice. Although I think that adding a comment on the kill switch and lanyard could be helpful also.

backdraft · Oct 23, 2003

Re: Say, outboard wrenches. Check this out.

JB, looks very informative. nevjb

seahorse5 · Oct 23, 2003

Re: Say, outboard wrenches. Check this out.

JB, You might want to add a bit about voltage drop. Measure the voltage while cranking at the battery terminals and again at the starter terminal and starter body. If there is more than 1 volt difference, then there is too much resistance in the system and the cables and/or connections need to be cleaned or replaced.

Dhadley · Oct 24, 2003

Re: Say, outboard wrenches. Check this out.

I agree. It looks pretty good for a starting point. I also would recommend leaving out the specific compression number for the same reasons as Rodbolt. Not to mention the differences in testers and methods. I've seen guys cut heads trying to get to a specific number only to melt a piston. Theres a reason the OE manuals dont print a specific number but refer to a percentage only. Good job!

StillFishin' · Oct 24, 2003

Re: Say, outboard wrenches. Check this out.

I like the idea. Some other items you may want to consider adding are: Fuel in tank? Tank vent open? Primer bulb gets hard when squeezed? BTW, "wont" should be won't. StillFishin' PS- this past summer I had an experience when my 15hp rope start would not start. After tring lots of things, it turned out to be the fact that the gas tank cap was not venting. I had to pry the cap off with a screwdriver!

JB · Oct 24, 2003

Re: Say, outboard wrenches. Check this out.

Thanks, guys. I have edited to reflect most of your suggestions, so far. FAQs to follow will include troubleshooting generic ignition systems and fuel systems. This needs to be concise, flow logically (my preference over "what happens most often comes first") and not get into differences in engines or systems. Sorry, SF. "Wont" is correct. It is not abbreviated, like "can't".

Chinewalker · Oct 24, 2003

Re: Say, outboard wrenches. Check this out.

Hi JB, As a newspaper proofreader by day (and motor wrench by night) I can assure you that "won't" is the correct and accepted contraction of "will not". As for the list - looks like a great start!! How about a safety disclaimer when checking for spark to make sure some bloke doesn't blow himself up... - Scott

JB · Oct 24, 2003

Re: Say, outboard wrenches. Check this out.

Well, Scott, you are correct in that usage. I concede.

Solittle · Oct 25, 2003

Re: Say, outboard wrenches. Check this out.

JB - Is this possibly leading up to a FAQ section? It seems that a large number of the posts deal with the same issues over and over and a FAQ might be very helpful.

JB · Oct 25, 2003

Re: Say, outboard wrenches. Check this out.

That's what we are working toward, SoLittle.

dogsdad · Oct 25, 2003

Re: Say, outboard wrenches. Check this out.

JB, I'm no expert on outboards, but this line kinda bothers me: "* Good compression on all cylinders. Check flywheel for sheared key, check crankcase for sealing at carb(s), inlet manifold and bypass covers." I am assuming that if the flywheel has a sheared key, then you won't be able to turn the crankshaft...which would mean you can't verify the compression in the first place. Am I misunderstanding something?

JB · Oct 26, 2003

Re: Say, outboard wrenches. Check this out.

I think so, DogDad. In my experience a sheared flywheel key allows the flywheel to shift, but not to turn freely. I think a freewheeling flywheel would be obvious to even a novice. I never saw one do that. Thanks for the input.

SlowlySinking · Oct 26, 2003

Re: Say, outboard wrenches. Check this out.

JB, interesting project and obviously will be helpful. The following is not criticism but more like an observation. Your opening sentence says, "...lead a novice...". Your troubleshooting flow chart is good for someone with some repair knowledge and understanding of repair terms we use, but may not get a novice to the problem and solution. For instance, I can't tell you how many times people call me with a won't start problem, I ask "does the engine turn over", and many answer, "Noooo,,,,, it just sits there." I kid you not.

For instance, when starting the engine is the voltage at the solenoid terminal significantly less than at the battery terminal? I wonder how many folks replaced a battery or starter when the cable had a voltage drop problem, and how many people know how to measure the cable voltage drop? Of course this leads to the next question, how detailed should the flow chart be before it gets impossible to follow? Good luck.

JB · Oct 26, 2003

Re: Say, outboard wrenches. Check this out.

Hi, Slowly. You sure have a handle on the difficulties in tech writing and explanatory language for the inexperienced. Terms like "fire", "turn over", "sputter", "sneeze", "backfire", "bog" et al can be very ambiguous. I think I will change "turn over" to "flywheel rotates" in response to your eagle eye. Thanks.

dogsdad · Oct 26, 2003

Re: Say, outboard wrenches. Check this out.

JB, what do you mean by "shift"? Do you mean that the flywheel is then no longer in its correct angular position in regards to the crankshaft? And then it becomes an ignition timing issue?? I'm not here because I already know everything---I'm here to learn! Thanks. -dd-

JB · Oct 26, 2003

Re: Say, outboard wrenches. Check this out.

Yes, DogDad. Typically, the flywheel will rotate it's position relative to the crankshaft some number of degrees. How far depends on what precipitated the shearing of the key and overcoming of the friction of the taper fit to the crankshaft. If the flywheel nut has been under torqued it can happen from the accelleration of the crank. More commonly it happens from a shock to the drivetrain. When the shock is over, it usually stops in a new, incorrect position. Then your timing is off, often enough to prevent the engine from running.

Say, outboard wrenches. Check this out.

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