School me on the RX-10c (1962 28HP Johnson)

ChapBoater

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I have looked over a lot of different sites and forums the past couple days and still have some questions on my engine. I just got a 1963 Sea King with a 1962 RX-10c, 28hp, Compression is checking in at 90psi per hole, is this low? I have found information saying anything 60psi plus is good and then other people saying you want 100psi+. I have the electric start button on the engine but am wondering how I turn the engine off once it is running, do I just hit the button again? I have tested the spark and I am getting a nice bright blue arch on both cylinders so I am not worried about the points right now. I am about to purchase a carb rebuild kit, impeller, new fuel lines and a manual from Seloc. Is there anything else I need to worry about doing right now? Last question, the carb plate is stuck in the open position, full throttle, you can close it and then it springs back open. Any ideas?
 

ondarvr

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The compression number is not a set in stone thing, the gauges can read differently and sometimes the same methods aren't used, it also can be different with a pull start or electric. The numbers just need to be close to each other, so 90 is fine.

Don't hit the start button again, use the choke if it doesn't have a stop button.

Is it the Throttle plate or the choke plate? That's normal for the choke, look further inside for the throttle plate.
 

F_R

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That motor did not come from the factory with electric starting. Somebody has added that. There was an available electric starting kit, however. For whatever reason, whoever installed your starter did not choose to use the kit, or if he did he didn't install the whole thing. The kit included an ignition switch and choke switch to be mounted up front in the dashboard. Instead of doing that, your guy put a push button in the motor. I don't know if he put it in place of the stop button, or what. If he put it in place of the stop button, how did he get the cables into the motor? They normally go in where the stop button was (stop is then by ignition switch up front).

Never know what you will find when somebody starts modifying from what the factory made.
 

bouttime007

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You should have a solenoid box like this with your main wires coming from a key switch and going out to your motor.

The switch should have an elec choke option. (push key in for elec choke to engage)

 
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Grub54891

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My 62 evinrude 28 hp has electric start, it also has a button on the dash for choke. Key start,turn off key to stop motor.
I think the above posts are correct as an aftermarket kit,as there is no alternator/charging system on the boat.
 

ChapBoater

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You should have a solenoid box like this with your main wires coming from a key switch and going out to your motor.

The switch should have an elec choke option. (push key in for elec choke to engage)


I don't have a box like that anywhere that I have seen.

How would I go about wiring up a stop button/kill switch into the dash? I think he ran the wires for a key start to be wired up but never finished it. He has the template from a Tohatsu on the dash with a spot for the ignition drilled out. The wires are running back to the starter and to the battery area. If I would complete the wiring and get an ignition, would that give me the ability to turn it off with a key?
 

bouttime007

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Jeez it sounds like a hatchet job, but If you have the keystart wires there you could start by seeing if they are workable.

Is there a solenoid on the motor somewhere?
 

ChapBoater

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Not that I can find. What's interesting is the entire boat seemed factory except for this attempt at ignition. I have the interior torn out down to the stringers and its not in terrible shape overall. I think he probably started the project and got in over his head and stopped. Now I have to figure out where to go from here and make it right
 

bouttime007

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Hmmmm... Is there a boat graveyard place nearby where you could look for the solenoid box?
 

ChapBoater

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I don't think so but I'll look and see what I can find. Is the solenoid box the only way to get it work with an ignition? I'm thinking back to a 4.3l I had in a boat and I replaced the ignition wires. I had one that went to the battery, and one to the starter and that was it. Is it so different on an outboard that it has to have a solenoid box?
 

F_R

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No Title

Here ya go--this is how it is SUPPOSED to be--
 

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Chinewalker

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As for the throttle issue. Check that the linkages leading back from the carb, to the mag plate, to the vertical throttle shaft are all working and moving as they should. Barring someone taking the carb apart and mucking around with the spring on the throttle shaft itself, I can't see how it could spring to WOT.
 

ChapBoater

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As for the throttle issue. Check that the linkages leading back from the carb, to the mag plate, to the vertical throttle shaft are all working and moving as they should. Barring someone taking the carb apart and mucking around with the spring on the throttle shaft itself, I can't see how it could spring to WOT.


Ya I was looking at the choke plate not the throttle plate. Whoops
 

ChapBoater

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So I just did some testing and found that the wires that he ran from the engine to the dash are for an ignition. I have a green grounded to the engine, white going to one of the small studs on the solenoid and a black wire going to the power stud on the solenoid that runs back to ther battery. I touched the black and white wires and the engine turns over. My question is, if I would hook up an ignition to those 3 wires at the dash and get the engine running will it turn off when I turn the key off? Sorry Wiring is not my forte
 

F_R

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The diagram tells it all. The two black wires to the "M" terminals on the switch are the kill wires.
 

ChapBoater

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What is the part that has the M and M post and the other part with upper and lower coil. Looking at me engine and the diagram I don't recognize those..
 

F_R

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Ignition switch (in the dashboard) and magneto (under the flywheel) The black wires come out of the bottom of the magneto, so you don't have to pull the flywheel...at least not for this job.
 

ChapBoater

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Awesome. Thank you for your help! I can see by looking at the vaccuum cut out switch where to hook the wire. Is there a stud like that on the magneto that I want to run the wire to?
 
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ChapBoater

Seaman
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Jun 1, 2014
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I planned on splicing into the 2 wires off of the magneto, 1 to the cut out switch and the other to the stop button. Well I only have one wire coming off of the magneto. Anyone have any input onto where/how I hook another wire to the magneto?
 
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