Sea Doo Jet Ski Hull Repair

[sdmerc135]

I have a 1997 Sea Doo XP that has a hole in the bottom of the hull. I have some basic fiberglassing knowledge but I was wondering what to use as a backing on the outside of the hull so the repair holds the shape of the hull once cured?

Thanks for any help,

Scott

 

[fhhuber]

Typically, the repair is done from the outside...

Grind away all damaged fiberglass and feather the edges out several times the thickness of the hull

Possibly form thin aluminum covered in plastic wrap and duct tape on the inside to support the fiberglass while doing the layup (if there's access)
This will be removed once the patch cures. (plastic wrap might stick...)
Alternatively you might form the patch backing with thin wood and leave it in place, bonded to the patch. But the wood is not intended to be structural.

Build up the patch using assorted (as apropriate) cloth and/or mat to JUST slightly thinner than making it smooth.
(this is the part actually patching the hole everything that follows is cosmetic)

Apply resin mixed with a filler to "spackle" the patch smooth, built up slightly thick.

Sand. and apply the gel coat to hide the patch.

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

The most helpful answers will come if you can post some pics of what you need to repair so the class can see what you're seeing.

If the hole is big enough you're worried about slumping then you may need to repair from both sides.

 

[sdmerc135]

Thanks for the quick response fhhuber! I am not sure why I was thinking repair from the inside. Now that you say that it makes more sense to overlap from the outside structural wise. Pressure from the water pushing in would be using the adjoining hull wall overlap to hold the patch against the hull. From the inside it would be putting the pressure directly against the patch and the joints around the patch. I can see that cracking pretty easy that way. Now that I think about it I was picking up where someone else left off and was just going by their lead without thinking. I will definitely work it from the outside now though. I do have access to the inside pretty easy. It is right at the front. All I had to do was remove the front storage compartment and the gas tank.

Thanks again!

Scott

 

[sdmerc135]

TruckDrivingFool, I was trying to do so but for some reason I was getting an error trying to upload them. I noticed in the photo upload tutorial that new members (basically what I am post wise) must make 3 posts to the forums before being able to post pictures? Just looked and I now have posted 4 posts so not sure if that is what was wrong or not. Once I figure it out I will post a picture.

 

[jbcurt00]

Take note of the 700KB size limit on uploaded pix


Good luck w your project

 

[fhhuber]

Or... upload pic to imgur.com and link it.

 

[fhhuber]

Note... the cloth/mat should extend slightly further onto the "feathered" edge of the hole each added layer.

My personal preference is the first layer being 2 oz fiberglass cloth, then mat (select weight for at least 3 layers) then 2oz cloth then 1/2 oz (to help smooth the surface)
A single thick layer of mat, even if it is as thick as the OEM hull is generally not a good plan.

 

[sdmerc135]

Ok, I think I finally figured out how to get it posted. Thanks fhhuber! This is the hole I am going to attempt to repair. I had worked a little on it previously grinding out the damaged fibers inside the hull. I will now need to work from the outside. The repair I am attempting to repair from a previous attempt by somebody else was definitely done wrong in the first place. Please excuse the condition this is in. I has been sitting for a few years. This is not a priority for me to get done anytime soon but I hope to have it done by this summer. I am also working on my little 25hp evinrude trying to get it running again. I am trying to get it done first.

 

[ondarvr]

It's typically easier to not grind or cut out all of the damaged glass to start with, the old damaged surface is used to duplicate the shape.

Use epoxy, most PWC hulls and bodies are made with fillers that compromise the bond when using other types of resin.

You can use something like cardboard to tape onto the outside as a mold surface to help get the correct shape back, then do the first glass work on the inside. Packing tape can be used on the cardboard so the epoxy doesn't stick to it. You don't need to put all the glass on the inside at one time, you can do few layers and then get started on the outside too. After that is hard you can do more of a cosmetic repair on the outside, only a small amount of glass will be used on the outside. You can add as much glass as needed to the inside.

No mat is used with epoxy, it will be a heavy cloth (10 oz) or something like 1700