Sea Ray Project

[WaterSplasher]

Checking out craigslist a few months ago I acquired a 1987 Sea Ray Seville BR. Shocked that someone was trying to get rid of a boat for $250 I went to take a look at it. If nothing else I thought the trailer would be worth getting. I stopped by there that same evening and talked to the guy and his wife about the boat, and discovered a few things. The hull is solid, there are soft spots in the floor, no seats, and they were not sure if it would fire up. So I decided to wait and look for another boat... Shortly after leaving the guys wife called me and told me if I wanted the boat, to come and get it and they will give it to me for free. So of course I took it. I got her home bought some ear muffs for the outdrive and tried to crank her up (pumped the throttle 3 times) and fired up with no problems.

Now here is my project.

I have already ripped up most of the floor and replaced the stringers... most of the rotted floor and waterlogged foam was on the starboard side. The stringer on that side had to be completely replaced. The stringer on the port side was rotted halfway down the boat. I have poured in some GIT ROT, on the good half of the stringer and replaced the rotted portion. Right now I am not going to replace the foam that was removed. I have also cut 3/4" plywood and applied a few coats of polyester fiberglass resin to both sides of it. This will be in-cased in some fiberglass sheets before gluing it in the boat. I will have some more updated pictures hopefully later on today or tomorrow.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Sea Ray Project

I have also cut 3/4" plywood and applied a few coats of polyester fiberglass resin to both sides of it. This will be in-cased in some fiberglass sheets before gluing it in the boat.

Yes, make sure you add some glass to that. I tried sealing a piece of ply with poly resin and no glass once and after 1 season the poly was delaminating. I believe you can get away with just resin if it's epoxy but definitely not with poly.

 

[erikgreen]

Re: Sea Ray Project

The delamination isn't normal even with poly. I'm guessing either the wood you laminated to got stressed or bent hard, or the surface prep wasn't completely done, or the wood outgassed or otherwise interfered with the poly bond.

Can you post some more info, maybe in another thread, and we can diagnose it? Strength of poly vs. epoxy is a fun debate around here

Erik

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Sea Ray Project

You win Erik.....it was not properly dried PT.

 

[WaterSplasher]

Re: Sea Ray Project

So am I understanding this correct??? I could coat the wood with just resin with out the glass??? would I need to gel coat it or anything before gluing it down or anything??? and what about the stringers??? Can I do the same for that??? That would save me some pretty pennies if I could... I will still be using glass on the top where everyone will be walking and once the floor and everything is done I will be gel coating everything...

 

[ondarvr]

Re: Sea Ray Project

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

So am I understanding this correct??? I could coat the wood with just resin with out the glass???


No, use glass with either product, epoxy will last longer without glass, but both will fail without it.

 

[WaterSplasher]

Sea Ray Project

So since the last response. I have put the floor in and working on the back and front seats... I'm currently debating on whether to put in bucket seats or to put in back to back jump seats... Sorry it has been a while since I have posted anything... I will be putting a layer of fiberglass over the floor very soon. I would like to have the front and back seating done before I fiberglass the floor down. Almost there...

 

[jonesg]

Re: Sea Ray Project

great find, it happens.

but did you get a title for it?

 

[WaterSplasher]

Re: Sea Ray Project

Yes title in hand for both the trailer and the boat...

 

[WaterSplasher]

Re: Sea Ray Project

Hey everyone,
sorry I know it has been a while since I have even put anything up here about progress but I have give the update... Well lets see I have the seating in the front done, the floor is in, back seats made, doghouse formed but not fiberglassed in.. Checkout the pictures below... Let me know what you think... I also have a question.. I recently acquired some bottom paint, for very very very cheap.. can it be used all over the boat or does anyone know if there may be problems using it anywhere other than the bottom of the boat???

 

[flyer4ever]

Re: Sea Ray Project

WOW! great work, Keep up with the pix ,It inspires the rest of us.

 

[WaterSplasher]

Re: Sea Ray Project

Thank you.. My inspiration comes from everyone on here working on their boats... Specially Oops... He gave me some great tips on building and making molds to build walls and different parts for the boat... So Thank you Oops and everyone else for their help and suggestions.. I will be working on the boat as soon as I get off this morning and will try to update this evening with what ever I get done...

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Sea Ray Project

I recently acquired some bottom paint, for very very very cheap.. can it be used all over the boat or does anyone know if there may be problems using it anywhere other than the bottom of the boat???

Isn't bottom paint usually pretty dull and flat? I can't imagine you'd want to paint a whole boat with it. Plus some types are made to wear off over time. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will come along but it doesn't sound like a good idea to me.

 

[erikgreen]

Re: Sea Ray Project

Depends on the bottom paint. If you're talking ablative or anti-fouling paint, sure.

If you're talking about trailerable boat bottom paint or something like the Interlux high performance bottom paint, there's no reason not to use it if you like the color/look.

Most anti-fouling bottom paints are ablative, they're designed to slowly wear off over time, and a lot of them just running your hand over them will remove part of the paint. Keeps barnacles from growing on the hull. But not what you'd want to use for topsides

If you want cheap ok looking topsides, use Rust-oleum marine paint or similar.

Erik

 

[WaterSplasher]

Re: Sea Ray Project

Well I found out that it is ablative bottom paint.. anyone in the VA area want a good deal on about 4 gallons of ablative bottom paint??? Anyways.. I went out on Friday and bought about a gallon of super white gelcoat to roll out on the boat.. I think I'm going to be doing a lot of sanding since everything is not completely smooth yet.. have a few wrikles to iron out in the walls and on the floor just on the sides where the wood used for the deck met the fiberglass... it will be ok.. I love the way that the superwhite comes out.. Any suggestions on how to apply gelcoat???

 

[BobsGlasstream]

Re: Sea Ray Project

WaterSplasher,
I wish I could be that lucky. Great find.
It looks like you have got a lot done.
I can't answer your questions about the Gel coat but I will follow this thread, and look forward to reading the responses.
Keep us posted
Bob

 

[erikgreen]

Re: Sea Ray Project

Well I found out that it is ablative bottom paint.. anyone in the VA area want a good deal on about 4 gallons of ablative bottom paint??? Anyways.. I went out on Friday and bought about a gallon of super white gelcoat to roll out on the boat.. I think I'm going to be doing a lot of sanding since everything is not completely smooth yet.. have a few wrikles to iron out in the walls and on the floor just on the sides where the wood used for the deck met the fiberglass... it will be ok.. I love the way that the superwhite comes out.. Any suggestions on how to apply gelcoat???

It's usually sprayed into a mold. If you're applying it as a repair, you can brush it on or spray it. The thing is it won't harden unless you keep the air away, so you either need to add wax to it or cover the repair with plastic wrap so it hardens.

It won't self level, gelcoat isn't paint, so either mold it smooth with plastic wrap and some kind of stiff flat material or be prepared to sand it later. Lots.

Erik

 

[WaterSplasher]

Re: Sea Ray Project

It's usually sprayed into a mold. If you're applying it as a repair, you can brush it on or spray it. The thing is it won't harden unless you keep the air away, so you either need to add wax to it or cover the repair with plastic wrap so it hardens.

It won't self level, gelcoat isn't paint, so either mold it smooth with plastic wrap and some kind of stiff flat material or be prepared to sand it later. Lots.

Erik

Thanks Erik,

I really appreciate it.. The place that I bought the gelcoat from (Eastern Burlap in Norfolk, VA) advised that it comes with wax already in it, and the container also has a sticker on it saying "waxed" (They have the best prices in town, $40 a gal, for super white). So I think that will take care of that part, but as for the laying it out.. I think I'm going to roll it out... I have a few imperfections and dips from fiberglassing the deck of the boat to the hull... I found later that I should have cut the plywood a bit different that would have helped that part... I guess my real question is should I do some putty work to the floor to get it nice and smooth before rolling out gelcoat or should I gelcoat and just sand it smooth??? I plan to gelcoat the whole boat. sidewall, deck, seats (front and rear) and probably paint on top of the gelcoat, and add the non-skid stuff. I also have to finish up laying fiberglass down on the deck of the boat but not in the areas that I"m concerned about, the area that I need to fiberglass is all the flat part. The area where the ski locker and people will be walking/standing in... My plan is to have the fiberglass work done in the next few days, hopefully by the weekend... It is getting to that time of the year so I think I may have to invest in a good heater, to be out in the storage unit...

 

[erikgreen]

Re: Sea Ray Project

Hmm... if you're painting, why gelcoat? There are easier ways to seal your wood up, plus easier things to paint over, and there are better ways to waterproof.

Gelcoat isn't paint.. I'm repeating myself but I'm still not sure you understand... I know you can apply it with a roller, but I'm not sure how many coats you need to get to a minimum thickness. If you're sanding it more than a little, like to smooth dings and dents, you'll want about 1-1.5mm thickness. This is a LOT more than the usual thickness for paint coatings. I'm not sure a gallon will be enough, depending on the actual area you're covering.

Usually gelcoat is sprayed as the first (outer) layer in a mold layup, and it's about .5mm thick. Since it's in a mold it won't need sanding at all... the mold is super smooth and shiny. That's one big way manufacturers who use it avoid labor... smooth the mold once, then pop out lots of shiny hulls. It's also non waxed when used in molding... it hardens anyway because it's surrounded by mold surface and poly resin/glass.

It's also much, much harder to sand than paint. As in, it'll take at least 3x the labor to get it smooth, quite possibly a LOT more if you want it shiny smooth. I solidly recommend prepping the surface first, fill dents and dings. The gelcoat won't cover them unless you put it on THICK.

Of course, since you mentioned painting over it, you won't want it smooth. Rather you're going to have to get it even/level with a rough surface then primer and paint it. You'll also have to use a chemical like acetone or xylene, or another wax remover, to ensure all the wax is off the gelcoat, or the paint won't stick.

Erik

 

[WaterSplasher]

Re: Sea Ray Project

So let me get this right... even if I get it nice and smooth then roll on gel coat do you think I will still need to paint over it??? I'm completely fine with white my concern with using it was getting it smooth to an extent.. My thought was to get it smooth and then roll on another layer or paint it with non-skid additive added to it... but If I prep the deck and get it nice and smooth before rolling on gelcoat that won't be needed right??? I can just roll on the gelcoat with the non-skid additive added in it? If this works for the deck then I will do this for the complete boat and just smooth out the areas that I plan to paint designs on. Would that be the wrong approach??? what I'm trying to acheive is a long lasting finish that will handle the environment, and won't chip easily due to dropping let say fishing rods, people leaning and walking on it, and coolers being bumped up against it. The main use for my boat is going to be fishing, but I was something that is durable and is going to be able to hold up to being used quite frequently. Please let me know if I have the wrong approach or if you have a better suggestion on how to acheive everything that I need/want.

I'm learning a lot... Thank you...