Sea Ray Transom, Stringers and Storage

pigrge

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Sep 4, 2007
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I have a 1982 Sea Ray that I started questions in another thread and have received no love, not sure why but maybe it was just the title or something, so I figure I may as well go ahead and start a new thread with the name of what I am doing in the title. Hopefully I will get a little more advice. Here was my last question.
Okay, I have searched and searched and searched and could not find anything as to the order in which to replace these stringers and transom. As mentioned before, I do not have the room to remove the boat from the trailer, so I am hoping that I can do this whole procedure without removing the boat from the trialer and put all kinds of special bracing on it. So if someone could please chime in with some experience!!!! It would be greatly appreciated.
Also, this being a small boat, 16.5 ft. total overall length from bow to stern without the outdrive, I am looking at putting storage under the deck. Anyone have experience with this? Should I just make plywood boxes and wrap them in glass and glass them into the deck? This would be a tremendous help! As this is a closed bow boat as well!
One more thing before I begin this prcess of putting things back, when I removed the decking before, I looked at how it was put in and it actually has glass running from the underside of the deck to the top of this stringer and NOT glass running from the bottom of the stringer to the hull of the boat!!! Almost as if the glassed the deck to the top of the stringer BEFORE putting it in the boat??!?!? This is normal? I would think that the strength should come from the stringer to the hull. Thus glassing in the stringer on both sides to the hull. BUT how to attach the stringer to the deck then? This is the procedure that makes me scratch my head!!!!! I know this post is long, and I apologize, but any help is appreciated!
 

pigrge

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Re: Sea Ray Transom, Stringers and Storage

There was a guy on here, that ran some sort of lag bolts through the wood in his transom and ran a come-along up to the bow of the boat and literally pulled the transom wood out after cutting it from the glass. Anyone know who this guy is and where that post is?
 

Bondo

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Re: Sea Ray Transom, Stringers and Storage

so I am hoping that I can do this whole procedure without removing the boat from the trialer and put all kinds of special bracing on it.

Ayuh,... No Problem,.. As long as you maintain the shape of the hull...
I am looking at putting storage under the deck.

Ayuh,.... There's probably Little or No space there to utilize,...
If there is,... Go ahead,+ Use it....
Whatever,+ However you do it,... Make Sure it can naturally Drain back to the Bilge.....
Thus glassing in the stringer on both sides to the hull. BUT how to attach the stringer to the deck then?

Ayuh,.... The Stringers should be firmly Glassed to the Hull......
Some of Us use a peanut butter consistency putty mix of resins to Glue the cockpit sole down to the Stringers....
Others just use Screws....

Btw,..... I saw your other thread, but had to do other things,+ never got back to it....
Sorry......
 

erikgreen

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Jan 8, 2007
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3,105
Re: Sea Ray Transom, Stringers and Storage

There's lots of us here doing Sea Ray stringers and transoms (and a hull).

I have a theory on the glassing of the stringers from Sea Ray. I believe due to the two I've taken apart that they assemble their stringers and deck upside down separately from the hull.

Then they apply a pile of glue to the hull and the edges of the stringers, invert the stringer/deck assembly, and stick it in the hull. When it dries they fill the spaces with foam and finish the boat.

It seems really strange to me to not glass stringers in, but remember these boats weren't hand made, even though Sea Ray has a good reputation.

Post some pics of what you're doing here and we'll help out. Also check out the other Sea Ray threads for more info. My thread is "Unintentional stringer job".

Erik
 

oops!

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Oct 18, 2007
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12,932
Re: Sea Ray Transom, Stringers and Storage

1. you can take the cap off and do it all at once......

this requires bracing the sides as they will tend to flop out.
when you go to put the cap back on it wont fit....kinda like a tupperwear lid on the wrong container.....

2. pull the cap replace the transom...replace the cap and do the strings and floor....

3. do the strings..cap on....pull the cap....do the transom....and tie it all togeather.......

i like 1.....you can get at everything....

but if you dont wanna brace...2 is best.

cheers
oops
 

pigrge

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Re: Sea Ray Transom, Stringers and Storage

Thanks for all the responses guys! Fantastic. I think what I am going to do, at this point, is yank the motor, cut of the stringers about 2 feet in front of the transom, and cut the transom out with the cap on, at then redo the stringers. And glass everything. The cap on this boat is quite a way up from the top of the transom. It is a wierd set up, maybe I am wrong, but the wood looks like it does NOT go all the way up to the cap. I saw a thread from Mtnrat and he yank the transom without pulling that cap so I think I am gonna try that. I will try and get some more pics uploaded as soon as our Ohio winter stops spittin snow!!!
 

zach103

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Mar 11, 2008
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2,233
Re: Sea Ray Transom, Stringers and Storage

I am also redoing my stringers and deck.. but i was thinking about putting storage underneath like pigrge... anyone have any advice on what to use or what you have used???
 

mtnrat

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Jul 29, 2006
Messages
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Re: Sea Ray Transom, Stringers and Storage

Yep I had lots of room. Just made a cardboard template. Dry fitted to see the fit and the best way to swing the transom into place. If you have the room, no cap removal. BTW still snowing here, some deep powder today and yesterday :) Also if you want storage have a look what I did for a ski locker.
 

oops!

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Re: Sea Ray Transom, Stringers and Storage

pigrge..............

the transom does not go all the way to the top...in fact there is a lot of clearance....2-3 ins......

but thats not much room to get a chisel in......

depending on the stability of the transom...you might get away with this.....

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=232109&highlight=easy+transom+removal+with

but you still need to get in there with a chisel or pry bar.

if you cant get it out like that......its a pita...!

with out the cap off...your in for a lot of sore backs...arms...legs....necks....and any other appendage you can think of !

having said that....its your boat...you can do what ever you want with it....

were all here for you whatever you choose

cheers
oops
 

erikgreen

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Jan 8, 2007
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Re: Sea Ray Transom, Stringers and Storage

One thing I noticed about my 1983 Sea Ray... the transom isn't full height. The strong part that the bell housing is attached to is only about half height, and shaped like an outboard boat's transom.

When I need to replace it, I'll have about a foot of room to work with on the top.

Of course, this probably means I can't SeaCast it, but I wouldn't do that anyway.

Erik
 

pigrge

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Re: Sea Ray Transom, Stringers and Storage

That is exactly what I was thinking mine is. I couldnt quite figure it out what the transom was shaped sooo funny, and I guess I wont till I get in there and start cutting. First thing first I have to yank the motor. Just got the hoist and stand this afternoon so maybe this weekend. Pics to follow.
 

pigrge

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Re: Sea Ray Transom, Stringers and Storage

I think I have decided to go ahead and do the transom with Sea Cast. Any critics wanna chime in with opinions/praises for an i/o repair?
 

pigrge

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Re: Sea Ray Transom, Stringers and Storage

MAN!!!! For lack of better words, this SUCKS!!!! I am well on my way. I want to personally thank you guys for talking me into doing it right the first time. I definately wanted to talk my self into the whole "is there a cheaper way?" attitude. But once I started to tear into the transom, all of the wood was wet. No rot yet, but it was on its way!!!! I dont understand one thing. When tearing out the sterndrive unit from the transom, I looked and there is no fiberglass on aroung the inside of the hole? Is this normal????? I dont think it is very smart if it is?!???!
Anyways, here are some pics of the progress. As you can see, there was only a secton that was just wide enough for the motor/sterndrive unit to be mounted to that was two peices of plywood thick. That came off pretty easy with a little prying, and is now sitting on my gas tank waiting to be used as a template for the new one. I wanted to ask your suggestions though, do you think it would be wise, to go ahead and make the whole transom two peices thick, or just keep it the stock way?
The other question is out towards the sides of the transom there is, I think it is called a gunwale??!?? A piece of wood glassed to the transom that would prevent me from pulling the whole transom out at once. (see last two pics) Do you guys think I should just cut those out or what should I do? Thanks fellas!
 

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erikgreen

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Re: Sea Ray Transom, Stringers and Storage

Is this normal????? I dont think it is very smart if it is?!???!
Yes, and you're right, it's not :)

I wanted to ask your suggestions though, do you think it would be wise, to go ahead and make the whole transom two peices thick, or just keep it the stock way?
Either way will work. If it were me, I'd make it as tall as I was able, on the grounds that more material=stronger. It's also a bit heavier, though.
Do you guys think I should just cut those out or what should I do?
Yes. You'll need to cut enough out to let you remove the transom, then replace with new wood and glass back to the new transom. Those pieces of wood are mostly to stiffen the boat sides, but also to mount parts of the interior.

Erik
 

pigrge

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Re: Sea Ray Transom, Stringers and Storage

I have a real quick question. What does the term filet mean in regards to fiberglass and the stringers. I have been reading up on this whole process and I cannot find a direct definition of this term filet?
 

erikgreen

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Re: Sea Ray Transom, Stringers and Storage

It's just a bridge of putty or other material across the 90 degree joint between a hull and stringer, or elsewhere. Fiberglass, even when wet out, does not make sharp turns well, and tends to form bubbles at such places, which are weak and undesireable.

There's a good pic or two of stringer fillets in my "Unintentional Stringer job" thread.

Erik
 

i386

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Re: Sea Ray Transom, Stringers and Storage

I have a real quick question. What does the term filet mean in regards to fiberglass and the stringers. I have been reading up on this whole process and I cannot find a direct definition of this term filet?

Cloth doesn't take too well to being bent at sharp angles so a concave bead epoxy "peanut butter" is created and the glass is layed on top of that.

This should give you the general idea: http://www.glen-l.com/supplies/pxman-apfillet.html
 

pigrge

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Re: Sea Ray Transom, Stringers and Storage

I got the transom out ALMOST in one piece, in just under ONE HOUR!!!! YEAH BABY!!! Talk about dodging a bullet!!!! Attached are some pics of the process. But I need some opinions. Where do I go from here? I know it may ound crazy, but I am not too sure. I am thinking I should go buy some plywood and start drying it out. Also, I am sure that the tedious process of grinding is about to begin right? How much/far am I supposed to grind this? Also, in the last two pics, you will see two small blocks of wood that sit on top of the transom on either side for the trailer tie-downs to go through. These WERE NOT attached to the transom, HOWEVER there was no glass that separated the two, so I am not sure if they are wet or not. They dont feel like it, BUT the entire transom was wet, so I can only assume. Should I go through the trouble of taking these out and redoing them or will I be okay? What type of wood should I use for the transom? Let the fun begin!!!!!
 

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pigrge

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Sep 4, 2007
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Re: Sea Ray Transom, Stringers and Storage

First off, I need to bump this back up to the top in hopes of some responses as I am the perverbial "fish outta water" over here!!! :rolleyes: Anyways, I went ahead and bought two 4x8 sheets of pressure treated plywood from Lowes. I did see that one gentleman did buy the cabinet grade plywood for his work, but I was just not comfortable with that stuff and it was four dollars more expensive. I want the wood to resist rot, not inhibit it! So I hope that I was right on my decision. Anyway, some advice on the grinding process would be greatly appreciated, as well as some advice on those two blocks of wood that my trailer tie downs attach through? Thanks guys!
 

i386

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Re: Sea Ray Transom, Stringers and Storage

Glad you got the transom out in one piece. It'll be easier to use it as a template for a new one that way. Make sure your hull is sitting square and not twisted or skewed in any way. Once the new stringers are in, it'll stay that way. Lots of people opt to replace stringers one at a time because of this. I'm not trying to worry you, just giving you a heads up. Good work. Keep the pics coming.
 
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