Sea Rayder Repair Manual for Powerhead Removal

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Feb 23, 2013
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Does anyone know where I can get a repair manual for my 1993 Sea Rayder F14 (with 90 HP Mercury Sport Jet)? I have searched far and wide but cannot find one. I do have the Sea Rayder Owner's, Parts and Mercury's Sport Jet manuals. Sea Ray doesn't offer one, obviously thinking we're all idiots.

Also, I want to remove the powerhead but it appears that the drive spline forces it to be lifted straight up. The Sea Rayder engine bay overlaps the engine and there's so little clearance it doesn't look like it can be removed without first removing the exhaust manifold and ignition module. Has anyone done this?
 

Bondo

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Re: Sea Rayder Repair Manual for Powerhead Removal

Does anyone know where I can get a repair manual for my 1993 Sea Rayder F14 (with 90 HP Mercury Sport Jet)? I have searched far and wide but cannot find one. I do have the Sea Rayder Owner's, Parts and Mercury's Sport Jet manuals. Sea Ray doesn't offer one, obviously thinking we're all idiots.

Also, I want to remove the powerhead but it appears that the drive spline forces it to be lifted straight up. The Sea Rayder engine bay overlaps the engine and there's so little clearance it doesn't look like it can be removed without first removing the exhaust manifold and ignition module. Has anyone done this?

Ayuh,... Welcome Aboard,.... I ain't done it, but ya no doubt gotta remove all the Stuff in the way, before you can do what yer really wantin' to do....

That's the way Mechanicin' works....

Try the Jet-ski forum for advice maybe,...
 

Part-time

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Re: Sea Rayder Repair Manual for Powerhead Removal

It comes out in one piece.
I removed the head, carbs and everything after I pulled it out.

You should be able to see where the bolts that hold the motor down are located pretty good with these pics.

537149_10152559912165487_1177736326_n.jpg

538284_10152559906655487_964872136_n.jpg

545721_10152559908265487_785082322_n.jpg
 

Part-time

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Re: Sea Rayder Repair Manual for Powerhead Removal

While we're here... can anyone tell me what size the conecting rod cap bolts are on this thing???
I have a 12 point 5/16" and it's not it... is it metric or sae?
9/32" or 9.5mm ???
 
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Re: Sea Rayder Repair Manual for Powerhead Removal

Thanks for the replies to my post. I'm a newbie with boats and I'm having fun refurbishing the old Sea Rayder I just bought. I do appreciate the experience other people bring to forums like this. I don't know what I would do without it (it wouldn't be pretty). Better to learn from those who have done it.

As to the powerhead removal question, the pictures show that if I lift the thing straight up to clear the pump spline, the gizmo on the back (thermostat housing?) might hit. If it is the thermostat housing and the thermostat is an automotive type, removing it would probably provide the necessary clearance.

I'm also concerned about something sticking in the interface with the pump, such as a corroded drive spline, stuck gasket and/or exhaust manifold boot. Are these common problems? If so, are there any tricks to get around these? Should I spray something slippery into the exhaust boot joint area (soapy water, etc) or pry it loose before lifting? Do I need to use a pry bar to loosen the powerhead/pump joint? Do I need new gaskets (the Merc manual doesn't mention gaskets) on reassembly?SeaRayder1.jpgSearayder2.jpgSearayder3.jpg

I also have some questions about control cables which I will post separately under the engine/powerhead section.
 

Part-time

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Re: Sea Rayder Repair Manual for Powerhead Removal

The shaft will have cleared and the engin can be moved forward to clear the head and that little cover.
For the exhaust boot I just loosened the clamp and the boot slid off as I pulled the motor up.
Take your throttle linkage off, remove all the wireing that conect the motor to the boat (starter and ignition),
the 3/4" hose for the cooling and the 8 bolts that hold the engine down.
I then kneeled on the seat, leaned over the back, pulled the motor up an inch or two, pulled it towards me a few inches and lifted it out.
 
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Re: Sea Rayder Repair Manual for Powerhead Removal

Thanks for your comments. I'm getting up my courage to give it a try. I have come-along cable lift and after I do compression and spark checks, I'll pull it out.

The main reason I want to remove it is to clean the engine and bilge and replace the rubber hoses on the engine. I can't stand a messy engine bay and worry about fire. I suppose I'll need to cludge a gizmo to check the spark. The manual says the spark should jump a 7/16" gap. Can I do them one at a time or all at once?

My 1993 engine has a black stator and it ran fine for about 10 minutes when I tested the boat prior to buying it. I read that the red stator should be installed but you need the later CD ignition system to use it. That would require me to replace most of the ignition system. Normally, I go by, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it", however I read horror stories about the black stator failing (and taking out other things too) and I don't want to break down a long way from home.
 

maicoman

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Re: Sea Rayder Repair Manual for Powerhead Removal

I understand your enthusiasm for this seemingly straight forward overhaul.I did the same to a 120 horse Sea Rayder a few years back.Stop what you are doing and dump that boat,even when new the boat needs trim tabs and a stunt dummy just to go in a straight direction.With no prop in the water and a wheezer of a 90 HP motor that boat cannot even handle a 1.5 foot chop.It is a very bad design,just my opinion but I have been there,that boat was made broken follow your own recommendation.Don't fix it,it will always be broken.You have been warned.
 

saumon

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Re: Sea Rayder Repair Manual for Powerhead Removal

Re: spark-tester
ignition_spark_tester.jpg
Can be bought at any auto-parts store for $10 or so, and very easy to use. Adjust to desired gap length and check for crisp blue spark, one at the time.
 

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Re: Sea Rayder Repair Manual for Powerhead Removal

I understand your enthusiasm for this seemingly straight forward overhaul.I did the same to a 120 horse Sea Rayder a few years back.Stop what you are doing and dump that boat,even when new the boat needs trim tabs and a stunt dummy just to go in a straight direction.With no prop in the water and a wheezer of a 90 HP motor that boat cannot even handle a 1.5 foot chop.It is a very bad design,just my opinion but I have been there,that boat was made broken follow your own recommendation.Don't fix it,it will always be broken.You have been warned.

Everything that is mechanical will have failures... Even Carnival cruises isn't exempt.
I think you should just ditch everything and anything that is mechanical.
Move into a sky scraper in new york or something like that.
No lawn=no broken lawn mowers
get rid of the car and ride the public transportation=no more broken car
boats are ALWAYS broken or this forum just wouldn't exist. don't own a boat or you're going to regret it!!!
 
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Feb 23, 2013
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Re: Sea Rayder Repair Manual for Powerhead Removal

After installing a new Teleflex 270 degree helm, bigger 5/16" steering cable and new shift cable, along with a lot of small items, the boat went into the water yesterday. The impeller tip clearance is .015 and there is no sign of wear on the housing. It went fast, got up quickly and handled like a champ, even at low speeds. I?m delighted with the boat and can?t wait to start exploring the local estuaries. There is a minor oil leak which I?ll cover in a new post. Thanks for your replies.
 
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