Sears Gamefisher 7.5 HP

[WildWesfishermen]

Hello All,

I recently picked up a 12 foot 1961 SeaKing Aluminum boat with a Sears Gamefisher 7.5HP aircooled outboard. I have been having trouble getting the motor to run effectively. The person I got it from said the motor had some water damage but didn't say where. I begin looking into the carb thinking that he ment that there was water in the fuel. I replaced the Fuel pump element i.e the duckbill and made a new gasket for the carb to the block. I also tried cleaning the carb out before reinstalling. I then noticed that I did not have enough spark maybe no spark at all. The motor also had very low compression around 30lbs. I then pulled the flywheel off and replaced the points and condenser making sure that I put in back in the correct timming and set the points to .020 when they break. I started to get better spark. I then sprayed some 50:1 fresh mix into the spark plug hole and tried to start the motor after several tries the compression went up to about 90lbs and held for over an hour. I continued to try this and it fired over and ran for a little while but appeared to be flooding so it died. I left it alone for a couple of weeks and then tried again and got it to run again a little bit but still died and still look like it was flooding. I saw gas coming from the top weep hole on the carb. I then researched some of the post and saw were Mrcrabs said that the duckbill should be at a 45 degree angle from 1 to 7 oclock. I pulled the carb off and fixed the orientation of it and tried again and now it will only fire for a quick second and not stay running like it is starving for fuel. I am still wondering if the carb is still not working correctly or if maybe the coil is bad and still not producing enough spark to fire over since it seems as though the condenser and points were bad to begin with. I thought about trying to retrofit a new coil spark system on it but do not want to put more money into it then what its worth. My model number is 217-586752 which from Mrcrabs is an eska 7.5 motor built in 1985 for Sears using Tecumse(spelling) parts.

 

[mrcrabs]

Re: Sears Gamefisher 7.5 HP

Hey, I just sold a 12 ft sea king 1965 vintage, You may want to do a complete carb rebuild, also check your crank for wobble....if the flywheel rocks side to side more than seems reasonable you might want to replace the lower crank seal. Engine looks good, I see no signs of miss use but if that engine was run with out a functioning water pump the lower bearing and crank seal get real sloppy. Do the carb, get the manual...the link is here some place.

Now I have to go clean up the downed trees in my yard.....80mph straight line winds last night.....WOW!

 

[MahtyMaht]

Re: Sears Gamefisher 7.5 HP

If you get tired of messing with points, you can connect one of these buggers to the coil primary where the points connect, and to ground where you mount it.

http://bantasaw.com/catalog/viewproduct.asp?i=&p=2205

Be durned sure you have a functional pump impeller in that thang, or you will be barbequeing the lower seal. Those weep holes don't run a stream, they kind of spew a mist. You shouldn't have to hold your hand there long for it to be dripping wet. Sounds like you got a fuel delivery problem. Maybe a new viton seat would be a good thing. Check your float height.

 

[WildWesfishermen]

Re: Sears Gamefisher 7.5 HP

Thanks for the info. I am going to order the manual from Sears Parts direct as well as an impeller and water pump kit to begin with. I did get it to fire and run long enough today to see if the impeller was working I dont believe it is I did not feel and misting coming from the two exhaust holes. Once I get that replaced I will go through the carb completely as it appears to still be getting to much fuel it is just pouring out of the carb now. So I will go through all the needles and replace all parts that can be replaced to try to stop the fuel delivery problems. If any one has a pdf manual that they can send me for this motor please private message me for my email. And again thanks for all the great info.

 

[WildWesfishermen]

Re: Sears Gamefisher 7.5 HP

Here is a quick update I ordered a manual, impeller and carb kit from Eskaman2008 on Ebay. I hope this cures all my problems and I can get this little motor running nicely. I will try and get a video posted when I make the repairs. Wish me luck because I need to go fishing.

 

[mrcrabs]

Re: Sears Gamefisher 7.5 HP

Wish me luck because I need to go fishing.

Good luck w/the fishing,
Here is a youtube I made and this is the way you want them to run, be sure you get that engine high enough on the transome so it will turn up atleast close to its rated RPM at WOT, 5650 but don't expect that. If you bury it in the water it will not perform well at all.

 

[Wingedwheel]

Re: Sears Gamefisher 7.5 HP

I've ordered from Eskaman on E-bay and had really good luck with his kits. The last time he even sent me a copy of the carb diagram and rebuild instructions from the manual.

 

[WildWesfishermen]

Re: Sears Gamefisher 7.5 HP

Got the parts on Friday but have not had the time with work to work on it but will make time on Monday I will keep you posted on the results

 

[fisher chris]

Re: Sears Gamefisher 7.5 HP

I am in a similar situation as you. Bought a game fisher 7.5 hp #217586751. runs great except when I turn the propeller on it doesn't turn all the time. turns out my propeller gear is striped I can order a new one but I can't get the old one out. I've removed the casing but can't get the gear off. Any advice?

 

[MahtyMaht]

Re: Sears Gamefisher 7.5 HP

I got one of those, and so far, I've only taken off the bottom plate/skeg, but I'm seeing pretty much garden variety snap rings to retain the prop shaft. One at the front of the prop shaft, one at the rear. I am, in fact, about to go out to the shop, and snatch that blackgaurd - I'll let ya know if it blows up, or burns down.

 

[WildWesfishermen]

Re: Sears Gamefisher 7.5 HP

Well folks I finally got around to doing some work on this motor I replaced the impeller the old one was shot. I rebuilt the carb was still getting to much I pulled it back off to recheck a couple of thing with the float and needle valve. I looked at the new fuel pump element I installed and it had a tear in it so I put back on the new old pump element which I had already repleaced a month ago when I started working on the motor. I got it to finally turn over and run for a little bit put a load on it and it ran in a test tank. It was hard however to keep running. It died a couple of times and after a few pulls it run a little longer. It still seems like carb needs a little adjustment on the idle needle I have turned all the way in then backed off a turn and a half. I still appear to have some fuel pooling around the choke butterfly. I am wondering if I missed something on the carb or should I install a peacock valve to adjust the amount of fuel being pumped in. This motor runs on an external 6gal tank. Is there a set length on the toatl fuel hose as well. I would like to get this motor running consistently so I can use it to get on plane as well as troll with it and not have to worry about it dying out. Also just for your information I redid my compression test because of what running I did on it with a bad impeller. I wanted to see if I had any bypass in the exhaust from not cooling properly in the begining. I had placed my tester on the engine cranked it several times and pressure was just under 90lbs. It held that pressure for several hours. I went to work and when I came back home it still was just under 90lbs. I then let it continue to sit for a while. It was on for about 21 hours total and over the span I only lost about 10lbs of compression. So I am guessing I am fine on the exhaust seal but I wanted to mention it because from my reading on here a leak there can effect the motor running and starting if I understood correctly. Well this is longe enough please respond with ways to get it working 100% for a 26 year old motor.

 

[mrcrabs]

Re: Sears Gamefisher 7.5 HP

I'm glad you have it running Wes, about the new fuel pump being torn thats a $10 bummer unless the supplier would be kind enough to replace it and as a side note to that I have had 1 brand new element that tore open on first run myself...seems the new ones are bit thiner than the OE pumps and prone to quicker failure. I have a drawer full of old original pumps some busted and some not so I know what I'm saying here, there just thicker.

Now about the fuel puddling near the butterfly I'm guessing here but I would say maybe check that float level again (maybe to high) and did you seal the welch plug? also I noticed on the newer model carbs that the idle air needle screw came from the factory with a tiny brass washer and rubber O ring that sets behind the spring to seal the thing, could be some slop there causing it to suck air?

Hose lenght should be kept to a minimum but I have found that my 5/16 hose works just fine as long as I keep the tank at a reasonable height compaired to the outboard (thank you Eskaman2008 who pointed that out to me)....I think my hose is a standerd 6ft hose and bulb.

Where did you get your carb kit and fuel pump element? would be good buisness for them to replace that for you.

 

[WildWesfishermen]

Re: Sears Gamefisher 7.5 HP

Something else I thought of that you guys mught be able to help me with. When I got the motor there was no spark so I replaced the points and condenser but I also had the coil/stator off as well. I am thinking that I might be out of time just a slight amount. Here is why I am thinking this. I adjusted everything when replacing the parts to where I was getting spark. I was just eyeballing the timing from the point of tdc on the piston and the high side of the cam and follower position. I then set the point gap at 0.020. I then tried to start it and saw spark so I thought it was ok. However, I was always wondering if my spark was strong enough to run the motor and it has started but has seem to be a little rough and dies quickly will not idle much. Well today I tried to start it again and it wanted to real bad especially when cold it would crank for a second then stop. I checked to plug to make sure it was not flooded and it was wet but not soaked like it was when the carb was still getting way to much fuel. I put the plug back in and tried some more and it continued to act like it wanted to start but was also getting a little backfire. Well because of the back fire and not being a 100% accurate on the timing when I had the stator off as well as replaceing the points and condenser I am thinking that this might be part of my issue getting this motor to start and run consistently and smoothly. Please ony thoughts and or ideas on how to assist me with getting the timing in correct sync with the cam and throttle control lever. I have the manuals on cd rom and I see where it talks about setting the piston at BTDC before top dead center using a vacum tool anybody use something else to get the .115 inchs btdc to set timing. Thanks Wes

 

[mrcrabs]

Re: Sears Gamefisher 7.5 HP

the BTDC is preset unless you changed it, that is your throttle stop tab on the right front of the stator plate.
What your concerned with is the position that the manual says the piston should be in when you set the point gap which is BTDC, points should be fully open at that time, from there your looking to sync the throttle butterfly rod to be full open with a tad bit of gap at BTDC to prevent binding, then adjust that throttle cam to move smoothly to open and shut as you move the twist grip from fast to slow...sometime you have to adjust back and forth on the cam until you get it just right.

I hope this make some sense, I guess its easier said than done but the manual is perty clear on what you need to do, only time I use the dial indicator is to set or confirm BTDC when I rebuild or remove the stator plate.

 

[MahtyMaht]

Re: Sears Gamefisher 7.5 HP

There's a third snap ring between the clutch dog and the gear! Took me forever to see it in the 'sploded view. Shove the prop shaft forward, pull the clutch dog back, and you'll see that little bung biter in there.

 

[MahtyMaht]

Re: Sears Gamefisher 7.5 HP

I have had good luck kind of winging it with the timing; With the flywheel off, I loosen the screws that hold the throttle linkage cam, so it's moveable, but not loose. Then, with the throttle set at the top of the start position on the tiller, I start moving the cam so it just contacts that verticle butterfly arm on the carb. Next, I open the throttle while watching the throttle linkage, and try to set the wide open end of the cam so the butterfly is fully open, but does NOT bind the linkage. It takes some messing with. Then when you run it, you may still want to mess with the idle/start end of the cam, but you ought to be close. I have seen a long list of timing tools for various Tecumseh engines, but I never used one.

 

[mrcrabs]

Re: Sears Gamefisher 7.5 HP

the dial indicator and special tool is a must have if you ever move the timing advance stop, otherwise you endup with calipers rulers and some voodoo trying to find .115 BTDC, but if you didn't mess with the stop its a non issue.
I don't recommend this but if a guy wants alittle more juice out of his SSI AV817 you can reach in there with a flat punch and bump that stop over a few thousandths

 

[WildWesfishermen]

Re: Sears Gamefisher 7.5 HP

Well I didn't move the stop but I did have the stator plate off thinking I might have to replace it. So if I am understanding you correctly you do not think I knocked it out of time even a small fraction. Like I said I was getting a little backfire on it.

 

[mrcrabs]

Re: Sears Gamefisher 7.5 HP

No I doubt you did and even if it did change a bit you wouldn't notice until WOT, but what you probably have going on is that your carb is out of sync with the iginition,