juggernaut0055
Cadet
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2012
- Messages
- 6
hey everyone, new guy here! been searching through older posts..great info! I think i have it figured out, but was hoping someone with more expertise would chime in.
Quick history...1988 force 85hp removed running from bad bayliner w/rotten floors. installed by myself on 1969 16' starcraft. Started the motor for the first time in lake..took off well...varied throttle for about 5minutes around boat launch. all seemed well. Took off towards the "sand bar" hangout spot and motor started to lose speed like throttling down...pulled throttle back to neutral and engine died. tried key switch and starter would not engage. turned key to "on/run" position and jumped starter and engine turned over and idled. as soon as throttle was moved into gear..engine died. did this several times..however I did move carb linkage up at the motor and engine reved up fine...but again as soon as put into gear it died...got towed back.
after reading MANY posts on here...A mech. tested the following.. spark at #1 and #3, none at #2. knowing that it could be a coil...I swapped coils with no change. did not know how to check cd boxes as the rear box has different wire colors than the front and was tentative at trying to swap leads and doing it wrong (they are fairly expensive) so instead i decided to test the "trigger" that the same boat mech. that I took it to said he thought it might be the trigger but it was more than he wanted to get into. so, I removed the wires in pairs and tested ohms...across first set of grn/orn I got 50ohms, second set=50ohms and third set red/wht=50 ohms...so I concluded its good. so then I tested the stator...it has 6 pairs of wires...I was told not to bother with testing the grn w/yel stripes as they are for charging (thanks forum) so I stuck to the two sets of yellow/blue , the first set I tested I got 790ohms, but the second set I got was 0 ohms. this tells me it has an open circuit correct? The problem I am having is this....if the front cd box controls the #1 & #2 cylinders then why is Cylinder #1 firing? I did not test the spark myself yet...plan to soon, have to buy a tester. Maybe the mech. is wrong? wouldn't both cylinders not fire because of no stator signal/volt transfer? I have ordered a new stator from outboard ignition (again thanks forum!) also a manual. does the stator go in just one way? I am asuming that the wire sets need to go to specific places, I know the blues go together but the yellows are separated. Any information would be greatly appreiciated! thanks Scott
Quick history...1988 force 85hp removed running from bad bayliner w/rotten floors. installed by myself on 1969 16' starcraft. Started the motor for the first time in lake..took off well...varied throttle for about 5minutes around boat launch. all seemed well. Took off towards the "sand bar" hangout spot and motor started to lose speed like throttling down...pulled throttle back to neutral and engine died. tried key switch and starter would not engage. turned key to "on/run" position and jumped starter and engine turned over and idled. as soon as throttle was moved into gear..engine died. did this several times..however I did move carb linkage up at the motor and engine reved up fine...but again as soon as put into gear it died...got towed back.
after reading MANY posts on here...A mech. tested the following.. spark at #1 and #3, none at #2. knowing that it could be a coil...I swapped coils with no change. did not know how to check cd boxes as the rear box has different wire colors than the front and was tentative at trying to swap leads and doing it wrong (they are fairly expensive) so instead i decided to test the "trigger" that the same boat mech. that I took it to said he thought it might be the trigger but it was more than he wanted to get into. so, I removed the wires in pairs and tested ohms...across first set of grn/orn I got 50ohms, second set=50ohms and third set red/wht=50 ohms...so I concluded its good. so then I tested the stator...it has 6 pairs of wires...I was told not to bother with testing the grn w/yel stripes as they are for charging (thanks forum) so I stuck to the two sets of yellow/blue , the first set I tested I got 790ohms, but the second set I got was 0 ohms. this tells me it has an open circuit correct? The problem I am having is this....if the front cd box controls the #1 & #2 cylinders then why is Cylinder #1 firing? I did not test the spark myself yet...plan to soon, have to buy a tester. Maybe the mech. is wrong? wouldn't both cylinders not fire because of no stator signal/volt transfer? I have ordered a new stator from outboard ignition (again thanks forum!) also a manual. does the stator go in just one way? I am asuming that the wire sets need to go to specific places, I know the blues go together but the yellows are separated. Any information would be greatly appreiciated! thanks Scott
