selectric,hydro lower unit questions ???

[riverkid]

Hello,Greetings from the snow belt.I've just gotten ahold of a '70 85 horse V4 'Rude.#85093D-Has equal compression and was told it is a fine runner.The controls are coming later.My main question is these lower units-There appears to be two solenoids buried inside the leg (from what the picture shows)if these solenoids stop working the forward gear stays engaged by default,right?What kind of damage is done by using a lower unit with a non-functioning shifter solenoid? Besides getting back to shore can one of these electric/mechanical l.u.s be used even if it doesn't have reverse or nuetral? Are OMC parts still available? It appears that they've made these lower units for quite a few years they must not be all that bad.Any advice or input?I've read in an earlier post to make sure you keep a fully charged battery hooked up. Can I find and switch to a full mechanical lower? I just need some input before I strike a deal and buy this motor.It appears clean and pretty well taken care of.Are they thirsty for the fuel? Thank you for keeping such an informative site available to the masses.Peace and stay cool-or warm,C.C.

 

[OBJ]

Re: selectric,hydro lower unit questions ???

Welcome to iboats riverkid!<br /><br />OK, upside of electric shift. Positive shifts. Gets you in gear and saves wear and tear on the gears. Forward solenoid fails and you still have forward to get you home. In my opinion, and you'll find opinions on electric shifts to vary, this electric shift, the one your looking at, was the best that OMC came along with.<br /><br />No, you don't want to operate the engine without neutral cause the engine will always be in gear....start the engine and the props moving.<br /><br />And you can only used gear lube made for electric shifts. Bomby Premium C is one but there are others out there.<br /><br />The solenoids are pricey if you have to replace them. 'Bout $113 each and are still available new. From experience, I don't think the electric shifts are any harder to work on than manual shifts.<br /><br />If you do consider the engine, try and get it on the water and run it. Make sure it shifts properly and the engine idles well and has a smooth transition through all throttle settings. Also get as much info on the engine as possible such as the last time the carbs were overhauled, the last time the water pump impeller was replace along with the t-stat and any maint info you can get.<br /><br />Well, that's my $.02 worth. Probably some of the other guys will chime in to.<br /><br />Good luck and thanks for posting.

 

[alden135]

Re: selectric,hydro lower unit questions ???

I have a 69 85hp and I am very happy with it. I picked it up cheap, $80 vs. 8k for a new one, and have not had to do much to it. I did pick up an extra shift switch on ebay before I needed one and found out on this site that I had the wrong oil in it (needs premium blend, ultra hpf fouls the shifting).Some really hate these electric shift motors but after buying an evinrude service manual from Marine Engine .com it dosn't seem to scary. I will say that my '69 runs quiter and starts easier than my uncles '87 Johnson 90hp (who knows how many hours are on either of these motors though). Lots of net searching and checking with the experts on this site will seem to get you a lot of the parts you may need. Good luck.

 

[WillyBWright]

Re: selectric,hydro lower unit questions ???

Welcome to iboats.<br /><br />All older Johnnyrude V-4s suck gas like it's still cheap. I think equivalent Mercs suck more however.<br /><br />HydroElectrics are automatically in gear until they're taken out of gear. The two solenoids operate valves that hydraulically move a piston that moves the shifter. Energizing the green wire gives you Neutral. Energizing both the green and blue wires gives you Reverse. The older Selectrics would never shift into gear if there was an electrical problem leaving you stranded. The HydroElectrics fail in Forward so you can get back.<br /><br />Switching to mechanical would be difficult to impossible. You'd be better off finding a used motor with that system.<br /><br />The ignition system on that motor is very touchy about battery connections. Loose/corroded battery connections can fry the amplifier. That's the main concern for good battery connections, but shifting is a concern as well.

 

[riverkid]

Re: selectric,hydro lower unit questions ???

Thank you Everyone. Lots of good info.The older Selectrics don't fall into gear when power is lost or,solenoid fails? I'm not sure if this is a Hydro or Selectro(1970)the controls still have to come off the boat.Checking the carbs and water pump is a given of course,these 'Rudes do not have a tell-tale stream do they?I've been assured thermostats,impeller and carbs are up to snuff-changed last season and hoses between the cylinder banks look fresh.When I get the controls I'll thaw out my hose and put muffs on it and see how it goes.I wish I could try it on the water but,were frozen up in these parts and the seller has been told he won't get a dime from me until it's running.Oh,what should the voltage output(charging) be when running? 14 volts I read here somewhere,I think.Thank you again,awesome site!!,C.C.

 

[prolinews]

Re: selectric,hydro lower unit questions ???

I,ve been running a 1972 125hp selectric for a couple seasons and have had no problem what so ever. I did however install a tell tale it was a cheap little piece of assurance. I run mainly coastal waters at slow speeds and sea grass in the late summer loads up on the foot.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: selectric,hydro lower unit questions ???

If it's a '70, it is a Hydroelectric shift. <br />If the voltage gets higher with it running than the battery voltage when it's off then it's charging. Expect over 12.6v. RPMS make a difference.

 

[captain spike]

Re: selectric,hydro lower unit questions ???

just my input......i run a 1969 115 on a 18'winner very thirsty but what can you do for a thirty plus year motor...keep all electrical connections very very clean keep your battery fully charged and use type <br />"c" lu oil, i have had this motor for 3 years and love it.good luck and enjoy!!!!<br /> GO PATRIOTS!!!!<br /> ***1969 115 JONNY 1971 18' WINNER***<br />'<br />'

 

[riverkid]

Re: selectric,hydro lower unit questions ???

Wow,thanks Everyone,I wish I had the controls today.It warmed up a bit and was sunny out.I'm only working part-time this winter with fridays off so,now's a good time for me.I'll let everyone know how it goes.Thanks again,C.C.

 

[riverkid]

Re: selectric,hydro lower unit questions ???

Here's one more.Could someone tell me if surface gap plugs are used in these(that's whats in there now)It has a Champion plug reccomendation on the sticker,but it's outside and I'm feeling kinda' lazy to go check.I read another post that says surface gap plugs are better for high r.p.m?If that's the case I'm gonna' put conventional plugs in my Merc.Thanks,C.C.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: selectric,hydro lower unit questions ???

My chart shows a champion L76V surface gap plug or a QL77JC4 gapped at .030"<br /><br />What's good for the goose... Whoops, wrong analogy. Apples and oranges: right! What's true for Johnny/Rudes is not necessarily true for Mercs. Stick with the NGK surface gaps on them.

 

[riverkid]

Re: selectric,hydro lower unit questions ???

Thanks Commander.I'm getting sold on this motor.Think I'm gonna' have to get a manual.Hmmm.I figure this 'Rude on my 1000 pound 17' C.C. ought to be fine.I'll make a fair offer once it runs,shifts and charges.I'm gonna' go for it.With you guys here and a manual,it should be fine.Thanks for the input and I'll post back when it's running and get everybodys blessing.Stay warm,C.C.

 

[ledgefinder]

Re: selectric,hydro lower unit questions ???

Great set of responses. Only thing I have to add is to echo OBJ - check the impeller. Make sure you have an overheat alarm in that set of controls. I'd clean the carbs, particularly the mainjets. If you're unhappy with the 85, I have a 115 with controls just north of Bradley Field, jslobvan AT comcast.net.

 

[riverkid]

Re: selectric,hydro lower unit questions ???

Ledge 'ol boy,I think this 85 should move me pretty good.It's funny because I haven't had it running and don't own it yet.(spring fever!!)I'll see what happens.This motor is going on a 17' C.C. 600 lbs. hull,plus motor,gear,a kid or two.12 or 13 hundred pounds total maybe.I've got two props to try out too.I really hope it runs and shifts as well as it looks.I picked up an old SD20 Seahorse today near Bradley field.I have spark and compression,I need to get some fuel into and it should run.I started another post about it.I need to know(before I take it apart)are the water pumps on this SD20 driven off the propshaft? I read a post somewhere here that they don't use a standard rubber impeller.A cam or eccentric off the propshaft to pump water? My library has practically nothing on OMC outboard repair.Oh well,I'll get to it sometime.Thanks,Ledge.

 

[OBJ]

Re: selectric,hydro lower unit questions ???

The water pump is driven off the drive shaft. No cams or anything like that. To get to the pump, the lower unit must be dropped (sp). It's always a good idea to get the correct manual for the engine. That means an OEM manual. One that was written for the engine.<br /><br />These original V-4's do eat gas as Willie posted, but with care, they are a strong engine and will last a long time with care.<br /><br />Ya' got some good advice in this thread. Let us know what yer doin' and don't hesitate to post any questions you may have.

 

[riverkid]

Re: selectric,hydro lower unit questions ???

Update:The V4 'Rude started and idled pretty well.I admit to using some older gas that had some Seafoam mixed in with it ,but it's all I had handy.It should run much smoother with some fresh unleaded and TCW 3,right?I found a plug on the side of the starboard cylinder-is this for a pressure gauge or tell-tale? Theres water pumping out anyway.It's cool.I have to retrofit a switch for the lower unit shifting-Thank you Willy B. purple + green=nuetral,purple,green,blue=reverse? The origional push button switch is shot,we got it freed up but,we broke the reverse shift switch-not a big deal to fix.Previous owner didn't find or didn't have ignition switch,so we jumped the wires at the keyswitch-new ignition switch required.The tilt trim works good.The wires got cut 2 feet away from the trim motor.There isn't a provision on the control box for a tilt trim switch=more retrofitting.I wanna' get some L.U. oil to make sure it's the proper type for electric lowers.Evinrude "C"?(I think OBJ thought I was talking about the V4 when I said "propshaft driven water pump" I meant the SD20 Johnson.)So thanks again Peoples,I'm hoping to get the wiring straightened out this week in my free time.I'll get some good switches anyway.I better get some good fuel too.Thanks,C.C.