Separating an 83 OMC stringer

[HappierWet]

I'm trying to pull an engine out. I have all the bellhousing bolts out, but can only move the engine about a sixteenth of an inch. I figure the coupler and shaft are rusted or galled up together. With the outdrive off and ball gear removed can I pull the engine and shaft together, or do I have to take the entire intermediate housing out? Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance.

 

[chiefalen]

Re: Separating an 83 OMC stringer

The out drive might be sagging. Preventing the shaft from slipping out the coupler.

Heres a step bye step. With the drive not removed.

If i were you i would lower the drive all the way, than lower the bow so there is about 2-3 inchs between the ground and the skeg.

Than i would put some 2 inch flat wood directly below the skeg, and raise the bow of the boat till the skeg hits the wood.

Than i would disconnect the battery neg first than pos.

I would disconnect all the wires and cables so the motor can pull free.

I would take off the 6 screws that hold on the flywheel cover.

I would remove the cover.

I would hook up my chain hoist.

I would disconnect the rubber hose on the exhaust.

I would tighten the hoist but not lift just snug..

I would remove the top bolt on the front mount. If it is a 4 banger.

I would remove the 5-6 bolts connecting the bell housing to the motor.

Make note where the ground goes what hole.

I would lift the motor gently, Pull it forward 6 INCH'S and lift.

You may have to remove the whole front mount.

When out inspect the coupler real real good and grease it good.

Inspect the splines on the shaft. Grease that.

Good luck! And welcome aboard.

 

[HappierWet]

Re: Separating an 83 OMC stringer

We did that with the exception of putting the skeg on the board. I have the outdrive off and everything on the engine disconnected, except the steering which is on the intermediate housing anyway. We've been prying and jockeying this thing around and it just wont budge. If I can't pull the engine with the shaft attached, I'm almost ready to pull the whole assembly. I really don't want to do that. Thanks for the input though. Somebody must have had this fight before, I'm not that novel. Thanks again

 

[WizeOne]

Re: Separating an 83 OMC stringer

....With the outdrive off and ball gear removed can I pull the engine and shaft together,....

No, the shaft only comes out the back side of the IM housing.

If you got all the bolts out, the only thing that can be hanging up is the shaft to coupler. If you have the out drive off, I would take a weighted rubber mallet to the ball gear center, trying to drive the shaft back in the little bit, then try to gently pry the motor and IM housing apart again.

I would get two wide instruments, like gasket scrapers and apply them diagonally, trying to work the motor loose from the housing, then alternately tap the back end with the weighted mallet.

I really do not know how common this hangup is. I pulled my engine after 25 years and it came right out. The splines were a bit rusty and worn, but mine had the older smaller splines. Yours have the bigger beefier splines.

 

[chiefalen]

Re: Separating an 83 OMC stringer

you got the drive off and the ball gear and shaft that go thru the transom, why not pull that.

4 bolts hold the the housing, and pull the ball gear, shaft right out the back.

 

[WizeOne]

Re: Separating an 83 OMC stringer

you got the drive off and the ball gear and shaft that go thru the transom, why not pull that.

4 bolts hold the the housing, and pull the ball gear, shaft right out the back.

Might not be all that easy chief. If the weight of the motor pulling forward won't break it loose, then I don't know how he could get enough leverage on the back end of the shaft (w/ball gear) to pull it out.

I still think that prying and tapping will break it loose. It is important, I think as noted before, the he pry the engine evenly away from the IM housing. I would have left the outdrive attached, that way the IM housing would try to face upward and not tilt downward as he attempts to seperate the motor from the housing. But the diagonal prying should do the same.

 

[HappierWet]

Re: Separating an 83 OMC stringer

Well, I came down this morning and started pulling things apart. I did try using a 5 lb. slide hammer on the shaft to attemt pulling it out the back with no luck. I got frustrated and pulled the engine and intermediate housing together... other than the steering it wasn't as bad as I thought. I am trying to split the two piece intermediate housing now. I did break off one off the tabs for the bellhousing bolt, but only one. When I get it apart I'll try putting a picture of whatever was holding me up. I really appreciate all the input though. I can't believe how tough this is.

 

[WizeOne]

Re: Separating an 83 OMC stringer

Well, I came down this morning and started pulling things apart. I did try using a 5 lb. slide hammer on the shaft to attemt pulling it out the back with no luck. I got frustrated and pulled the engine and intermediate housing together... other than the steering it wasn't as bad as I thought. I am trying to split the two piece intermediate housing now. I did break off one off the tabs for the bellhousing bolt, but only one. When I get it apart I'll try putting a picture of whatever was holding me up. I really appreciate all the input though. I can't believe how tough this is.

Will definitely be interested to see.

 

[chiefalen]

Re: Separating an 83 OMC stringer

Me too post the pics mine came out easy after 23 years. I just put a claw hammer behind the ball gear and pried it out easy.

That sucker got to be rusted bad.

Want to see the shaft splines and the coupler splines are still good hmm.

 

[HappierWet]

Re: Separating an 83 OMC stringer

FINALLY got it apart. Wound up using a pair of pickle forks and a sledge. I'm having a problem with uploading pics but we'll try this.

 

[WizeOne]

Re: Separating an 83 OMC stringer

Can't tell what that second picture is but the first one is mighty rusty. As da chief says, you'll want to inspect those splines very closely. Any chance there is water leaking inside the bell housing? What does the rest of the flylwheel look like? I wonder if that had been assembled without any grease? There is an oring there to help hold the grease in and that shaft does not slip in and out so any grease should have stayed put somewhat.

You didn't say what motor you had. If your coupler is marginal and you have a chevy, I just saw one on ebay for reasonable.

Oh, and if your camera has a macro setting you should use it.

 

[chiefalen]

Re: Separating an 83 OMC stringer

Yea i saw that brand new coupler on e-bay 110 buy it now.

Shaft still looks to be good if i could see it a little better.

Make sure the coupler you get match's the amount of teeth on your shaft.

Like the wize man says grease it good and make sure you have the rubber o-ring on the shaft.

 

[WizeOne]

Re: Separating an 83 OMC stringer

.... Make sure the coupler you get match's the amount of teeth on your shaft......

Earlier couplers, probably '77 and earlier, had more splines. They will fit your flywheel but won't mate up to your larger(& fewer) splined shaft.

 

[HappierWet]

Re: Separating an 83 OMC stringer

Sorry, the motor I pulled was a 305, I'm putting a 350 in it. The flywheel looks good... still has fresh looking paint. If there was ever an O-ring on that shaft there is nothing left of it now. I don't understand about the Macro settings on the camera. What should I be looking for? Will it make it easier to upload to this forum? The ones I put up this morning I had to go thru picture manager and resize. The forum has a size limit....or is there a way around that? The cameras I use are Kodak Easyshare CD43 and Kodak Easyshare Z612. I've going to try cleaning the coupler and shaft up before I spend money. I don't think the splines are twisted just very rusty(obviously)
I'll throw the shaft in the lathe to check it with a dial indicator and make sure that's straight also. How much wear is normal on the ball gears by the way? It does have the water diverter to keep the gears cool but they have noticeable wear. Is that from someone running the outdrive tilted up on the quadrant? GEEZ... is it really Sunday night already? Really THANKS GUYS

 

[WizeOne]

Re: Separating an 83 OMC stringer

First of all HW, I think the oring is in the coupler, not on the shaft. Not sure I am correct here, but I believe that ball gear wear can be as much as 25-30%. But even that is not necessary if you do not run it with the drive up. My BG's are now 33 y/o and probably do not have 5% wear on them.

For your pictures, use PhotoBucket. It is free to sign up. You do not need to use EasyShare, just upload the full sized picture from your hard drive onto PB. Below the upload box you can choose the picture size. Choose the 640 x 480 setting. Once you select it, it will stay that way and you will produce pictures that are the appropriate size for the iboats screens.

http://photobucket.com/

Once you have your picture on PB, you click on the little yellow box(here on iboats) with the mountains on it and paste the url link to your picture.

I'm not familiar with your camera but it should have a Macro setting. This allows you to take pictures close up that are below the normal focus distance of the camera. Here is a cut and paste off the website for your camera.

Focus range
normal wide: 1.6 ft (0.5 m)?infinity
normal tele: 3.9 ft (1.2 m)?infinity
macro wide: 4.7 in.?2 ft (12?60 cm)
macro tele: 2?4.3 ft (60 cm?1.3 m)

 

[HappierWet]

Re: Separating an 83 OMC stringer

COOL, not only am I getting good info on this outdrive, I get to learn something new about the cameras too. I'll have to look and see.