Serious Trailer Axle Issue 1996 Shoreland'r 23.5' Trailer

[fishrdan]

That axle could have been "trimmed" a bit to clearance for the backing plate, but WOW, that's hacked! Lucky the hub and tire didn't fly off going down the freeway. (I remember several local stories of people being killed by wheels/hubs falling off vehicles and flying into opposing traffic...)

I'm undecided if I would take it back to have them fix the problem they created. One part on me would want them to pay for their mistake, another part of me wouldn't trust them to touch the trailer again.

 

[jimper]

Can't thank you all enough. First time i have used a forum like this experience and suggestions you all have is impressive. to give you an update, the mechanic that did it is now realizing he may have some serious liability. Now he claims that even though he butchered my axle to get it to work with electric brakes, that someone else did something to it after the fact because it looks slightly different than the way he butchers them. He is the only person who has ever worked on my trailer so now he has me hopping mad. I am going to take legal action and regardless of whether i am successful, he will not be touching the trailer again. the local Shoreland'r dealer has recommended a reputable shop and once i figure out how to get the boat and trailer there reasonably safely or figure out how to get the boat off the trailer (no local marina will let me dock the boat for more than a few days) i will be getting it properly repaired. I will post the final solution which i will bet is going to be one of the suggestions you folks have already made.

With much gratitude,

Jimper

 

[89retta]

Best way to get your rig to a shop is to get a flatbed tow truck to take it.

 

[M2HB]

Call and get that guys tools revoked, that is criminally negligent work

For some people, simple tools are lethal weapons.

 

[M2HB]

As stated earlier, if it were mine, I would fix it. Since I don't know who is doing the work I can't recommend that. There are, however, plenty of good fabricators who can fix it.

If you decide to have it fixed, I would recommend a 1/4" thick mild steel plate on an angle, from the top of the axle tube closest to the brake backing plate, to the bottom of the axle tube which will enclose the end of the tube. This is to transfer the stress from the top of the tube, across the sides, to the bottom of the axle tube. Unfortunately, there is a large gap there now where the steel was cut away. That needs to be replaced with fish plates on both sides which should be welded all the way around.

Now, to removing the boat. I wouldn't do that. I would remove the tires after putting the trailer on jack stands on a level surface. I would then remove the axle and take it down to get fixed. It is much easier removing the axle than removing the boat. That axle cannot be fixed properly on the trailer, so it needs to be removed anyway.

 

[jimmbo]

I would be inquiring with your State as to whether or not Mr. Stuart(Stu) Pid is even a mechanic. If by chance he is, his Licence should be reviewed

 

[ahicks]

I would likely pull the axle myself, but doing all of my own work means a lot to me. I get the concept where some are unable, or have way different priorities. For those, I like the flat bed tow truck plan.

 

[H20Rat]

it looks slightly different than the way he butchers them.

At least he is correct on that part, it looks different because the axle is in mid-failure right now! When it left his shop after hacking on it, it hadn't split apart yet.

 

[M2HB]

Just curious.

What was the outcome?

 

[HT32BSX115]

Electric brakes work fine on a boat trailer. Great, in fact. I love mine. What's wrong with them? Our trailers also have electric lights...

Yeah, about 3 years ago, I pulled single axle surge brakes from my trailer, welded backing plates on the rear axle (that never had brakes on it from new) and installed Dexter electric brakes on my trailer.

WHAT A DIFFERENCE! I am using the Integrated Brake Controller in my 2005 F350 Super Duty and they work flawlessly.

I don't operate in salt water and getting them wet doesn't seem to hurt them at all.

They just work. AND, no more smoking hot brakes when running down a long hill. I'll never have a trailer with a surge actuator again.

The only way I would change them would be to go to electric over hydraulic disc.

Since I have a Miller tig welder and a Millermatic wirefeed. I would consider repairing that axle but since they are not really all that expensive, I would also consider just replacing it (or both) and installing Dexter Nev-R-Adjust electrics (which is what I put on my trailer)

Dexter has a large line of drop axles in various lengths.

You can buy these parts at various places around the country...


Cheers,

Rick

 

[MTboatguy]

Just order a new Dexter axle with loaded backing plates on it, take the old axle off and put the new one on, install drums if that is what you currentlly have splice the 4 wires(two on each side) and be done with it, use water proof butt connectors, the ones I use, I get at the auto parts store, they are loaded with a water proof compound and they shrink to fit the wire so they don't let water in.

As far as the money part of it, do what you can with the place that screwed that axle up.

That one can be repaired, but for the price of a new loaded one, it is not worth the time or trouble to repair it.

 

[HT32BSX115]

As far as the money part of it, do what you can with the place that screwed that axle up.

That one can be repaired, but for the price of a new loaded one, it is not worth the time or trouble to repair it.

Yeah, I might be asking the guy that has "done it that way for 40 years" , what he's going to next.

Depending on the answer, I would ask him he if he has a good lawyer........