Setting up your drag

[Jlawsen]

I recently read an article about setting up your drag. The article simply stated that you should rig your pole using the line and knots that you're going to use for that type of fishing then put the hook into something, pay out about 20 fett of line, set your drag lite and then start putting tension on the line straight out. Start tighening the drag until something in setup fails.

I tried this and 90% of the time the knots failed first which is what I expected. That's fine, with mono or FC I know that no matter how careful I am they are always going to be the weakest link. So this method does work pretty well but I think it covers only a limited amount of situations.

What do you do when you use your drag to let a fish run and tire? I guess the only solution would be to setup your reels drag so that the maximum amount you could ever apply would be just below the breaking point of the weakest link in your rig, the knots.

Holly Mackeral Andy, you'd need to do that everytime you changed line or rigs!!!!

So, what I have come acustomed to doing, is to leave the drag at a moderate level and then working it while I'm playing the fish. On my bait casters I'll use my thumb and the Star drag to fine tune it and on my spinning reels I'll palm the spool. You might try it if you're not already doing it, it's much easier than what some line manufacturers recommend (the article was from SunLine).

 

[dingbat]

Re: Setting up your drag

Sounds like you need to learn how to tie a knot that holds.

In my game drag pressure is very important. Too much drag and you risk damaging tackle or yourself. Too little and your hook sets suffer and you risk being spooled before you can get the rod out of the holder.

My drags are set 25-30% of the line strength unless I am Striper fishing, then they get pushed to the reels capacity. Ever seen a 4/0 Penn Senator reel twist?

Why 25%?
1. Drags get hot and expand during the fight. Sticking and lockups are common on drag systems that are not properly maintained. That #15 of drag you had could suddenly go to maximum when the drag locks up or bounce around between #15 and #20 on a sticking drag.

2. You also have to consider start up torque. Peak drag comes when the spool goes from a rest to full speed. That instantaneous burst of drag can be as high as 30%

3. Since the drag is a function of spool diameter, the drag force increases as spool diameter decreases. The affect is linear so the drag with an empty spool could easily be double what it was with a full spool.

If a drag is adjusted correctly, there is absolutely no need to adjust anything. Unless your getting down into the spool, then backing off the drag to compensate the increased drag might be in order. Anyone caught adjusting the drag on one of my reels on my boat walks the blank.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: Setting up your drag

I set my drag for the amount of load I want on my rod.

I have an "eye" screwed to the top of my gunwale for my bimini top strap. I put the hook in the "eye" and then pull back on the rod, if the drag slips too son I tighten it up... if it doesn't slip when I get the load I want I loosen off.

When trolling for Crappie around structure I snag regularly and don't want my line to snap. I do use spring steel light wire jig hooks that're made to bend and pull free from the snag and then be bent back to be used again. When I snag the pole will load and the drag will slip, I take the rod out of the holder and hold the spool until the hook bends and pulls free.

When drifting/bottom bouncing for big cats I set the drag in the same manner but use much heavier tackle and hooks so the drag setting is tighter.

When stand up bottom fishing for Grouper and Snapper in the Gulf the drag is is set to the max to keep a big fish from getting back into the wreck, and you better have a good grip on the rod.

The only break-offs I have is when a fish gets more than one wrap around a piece of structure and those are few and far between.

I have landed some very nice (big) fish on very light tackle.

 

[JEBar]

Re: Setting up your drag

I guess I need to start catching bigger fish ..:facepalm:.. the vast majority of the time I use Shimano reels with their Fighting Drag system .... they work as shown in this video .... they work for me

Jim

 

[ngt]

Re: Setting up your drag

I usually just pull it and if it feels like it would give some fight, but run before breaking, I set it in that area. If I had to set a % to it, I'd say about 60%, but depending on the line, sometimes I'll play with it with a fish on. It works for me, but I'm usually using a single line setup, or a leader I'm use to. I had to ask you about the drag on the 18lb lead core and 12lb mono leader because it was different than the norm for me. Only time I set it right under the breaking point is when I know my gear will hold up. 65lb braid with one of my steal leaders and I can go 80-90% comfortably unless I'm in a spot where something too big to muscle could be around.

 

[Jlawsen]

Re: Setting up your drag

Interesting comments. Dingbat, sounds like you have it down to a science. Jigngrub, you seem to setup sort of like I do. ngt, when I showed you how to set the drag real light on that lead core that is when the rod is out the side and in the rod holder. As you learned, with the Steelhead it's best to work the drag as you're fighting so you can get him closer to boat and then use the drag and the rod to tire him them out.

Dingbat, regarding knots, if we had the perfect knot there wouldn't be so many of them. The new FC lines are now a lot better than they were. The fact that it doesn't stretch makes tying the correct knot very critical as well as setting the drag up right. As for watching a 4-0 reel twist, I haven't seen it but I was warned about it (in spanish but it was perfectly clear) when fishing Sail Fish with light tackle once.

 

[dingbat]

Re: Setting up your drag

Dingbat, regarding knots, if we had the perfect knot there wouldn't be so many of them.

Most knots where designed for lines manufactured back in the 1940?s. Times have changed and so have the knots required to connect the new lines. If you throw out the old technology knots, you?re left with just a handful of knots that provide 90% or better holding power. Pick one knot for each termination type and practice those 2-3 knots until you can tie them in the dark. Knot strength then becomes a non-issue.

The new FC lines are now a lot better than they were. The fact that it doesn't stretch makes tying the correct knot very critical as well as setting the drag up right.

The line stretch argument would make a lot of sense if tied your line of to a boat cleat. It does not make sense when tied of to the end of large shock absorber, aka fishing rod. The amount of give in a bending rod is more than enough to compensate for the 2-3% stretch in a conventional monofilment line.

Only time I set it right under the breaking point is when I know my gear will hold up. 65lb braid with one of my steal leaders and I can go 80-90% comfortably unless I'm in a spot where something too big to muscle could be around.

#50+ pounds of drag? Wow.....you must be from another planet.

 

[Jlawsen]

Re: Setting up your drag

Most knots where designed for lines manufactured back in the 1940’s. Times have changed and so have the knots required to connect the new lines. If you throw out the old technology knots, you’re left with just a handful of knots that provide 90% or better holding power. Pick one knot for each termination type and practice those 2-3 knots until you can tie them in the dark. Knot strength then becomes a non-issue.

It's rare that I use over 20lb line so this might not apply for you. I should have been more clear about that in the first post. My mistake, sorry:facepalm:

The original Flourocarbon Lines were difficult to tie without burning or cutting using conventional knot tying. Even the coveted Palomar saw as much as a 50% strength loss at the knot. The new "No Name" knot got us close to a 25% loss but it took a lot of practice to get it right and in my limited use, tying it on the boat during a hot bite was just not going to happen.

The thing that made the FC lines so attractive to Bass and Trout fisherman was that fact that it didn't float, didn't stretch and was hard to see in the water. When you need to feel the bite and set the hook fast, FC is a big help. You need to have your drag set correctly to compensate for what you know is going to be a lower knot strength.

Nylon lines (typically called Mono) are softer, float and they streatch, knot strength is usually nearer 90%. Just like FC, if you forget to wet them they will burn when you pull the knot tight but they have less tendancy to cut into the underlying knot portion. Some of the new technologies in Nylon lines have them on the comeback. They still float but they stretch less, have less memory and are now nearly as small in diameter as the FC's.

I've used braided lines a few times but not much. I plan on giving it a shot again this fall and winter on the rivers. There's a lot of campfire talk about it and the reviews look promising for float fishing. I haven't settled on what my new float rig is going to be yet but when I do, the decision will include it's ability to handle braided lines. I think that of any of the line types, the braids would be closer to the articles recommended drag settings than any of the other line types. I don't know for sure but it seems to make sense.

 

[ngt]

Re: Setting up your drag

Yeah, on new gear and new line combinations like that, advice is always appreciated. Rather that than lose a fish. On my gear, I can just feel the right spot the majority of the time. Only know a few knots, but I've never had them give. I need a couple of new ones for fly fishing. (double surgeon)

 

[dingbat]

Re: Setting up your drag

It's rare that I use over 20lb line so this might not apply for you. I should have been more clear about that in the first post.

There is some misconception that Saltwater fishing requires heavy line weights which just isn?t true. Except when trolling, I don?t use anything heaver than a #17 copolymer

it took a lot of practice to get it right and in my limited use, tying it on the boat during a hot bite was just not going to happen.

You are suffering equipment failures because you have not taken the time to master the skills needed. Hot bites come and go. That fish of a lifetime only comes around once. If you?re having problems with knots on fluorocarbon your in for a rude awakening with braid.

I haven't settled on what my new float rig is going to be yet but when I do, the decision will include it's ability to handle braided lines.

Any off the shelf rod will do just fine with braid. The simple jerk of the wrist required to set the hook with braid requires nothing special. If you are a proud member of the Jimmy Houston, ?rip their lips off? club then you might want a little softer rod to keep from ripping hooks loose.

 

[Jlawsen]

Re: Setting up your drag

You are suffering equipment failures because you have not taken the time to master the skills needed. Hot bites come and go. That fish of a lifetime only comes around once. If you’re having problems with knots on fluorocarbon your in for a rude awakening with braid.

Dingbat, just to be clear, I'm not suffering equipment failures. By definition, you must do something correctly a minimum of 5,000 times in order to become a master. FYI, I hate braid.

 

[ngt]

Re: Setting up your drag

never had a problem with knots and braid.

 

[dingbat]

Re: Setting up your drag

By definition, you must do something correctly a minimum of 5,000 times in order to become a master.

5,000 times? I can tie a 90+ percent knot on a braid to fluoro connection using the Slim Beauty in my sleep. Probably have not tied the knot more than a 2,000 - 3,000 times

http://midcurrent.com/videos/tying-the-slim-beauty-knot/

 

[sschefer]

Re: Setting up your drag

The slim beauty is a well known knot and very high strength. A great knot for fish that don't spook easily.

 

[sschefer]

Re: Setting up your drag

never had a problem with knots and braid.

I've never had a problem with it either. I see it on the rack at the store and that's where I leave it. IMHO the best lines out there for a cast or spin reel are the new nylon mono's. Zero memory and very little stretch. They still float a little but not like they used to unless you want one that does and they have those too.

 

[dingbat]

Re: Setting up your drag

A great knot for fish that don't spook easily.

What are these spooky species you speak of? Don't seem to bother anything around here and we use hi-vis braids most the time.

 

[fishrdan]

Re: Setting up your drag

Perfect example of a dude who is going to get DQ'd by the IGFA for rail fishing a world record rottweiler...

 

[fishrdan]

Re: Setting up your drag

Oh yeah, for my big fish reels I don't check my drags with all the line on the reel. I'll cast out, then check the drag. Or, I'll let the troll line out all the way, then check the drag. I'm more concerned about drag pressure at strike since the line is usually 1/2 way down the spool.

For dinks, I just grab the line and pull it off the reel to what ever feels good, little bit of line stretch. Real scientific and all, ya' know.

 

[ngt]

Re: Setting up your drag

I've never had a problem with it either. I see it on the rack at the store and that's where I leave it. IMHO the best lines out there for a cast or spin reel are the new nylon mono's. Zero memory and very little stretch. They still float a little but not like they used to unless you want one that does and they have those too.

Hey Steve! Long time no see I use braid (right now all I have is 65lb on 2 reels) for bigger fish. Sturgeon, Ray, shark, Striper, Ling, Butts, etc..Usually fishing off of some cliff, rocks, or pier into the bay or ocean. Haven't tried the nylon mono. I'm pretty out of touch when it comes to the next new thing in fishing.

 

[WIMUSKY]

Re: Setting up your drag

Oh yeah, for my big fish reels I don't check my drags with all the line on the reel. I'll cast out, then check the drag. Or, I'll let the troll line out all the way, then check the drag. I'm more concerned about drag pressure at strike since the line is usually 1/2 way down the spool.

For dinks, I just grab the line and pull it off the reel to what ever feels good, little bit of line stretch. Real scientific and all, ya' know.

I'm there too. I set them totally by feel. Ultra lites I can pull line easily. Walleye, not so easy but not hard by any means. Muskie, I set the drag pretty tight for hooks sets. Back it off once I hook a fish. Unfortunately, I haven't had to back it off in a while....