Shavings in my outboard Alpha1 Gen2

Im Lon 2

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Hi All was winterizing the boat this past weekend and when changing the gear lube I noticed some shavings on the drain plug.
2008 5.0 MPI Alpha1 Gen2

IMG_0202.jpg


This is my first year with the boat. What are something that will cause this? I know they say you will see some, but that to me is way more than some. I changed my water pump when I first got the boat in April and didn't see anything on the drain plug at that time probably put 40-60 hours on it this summer. Is it something I'm doing wrong that could cause this?

Thanks for your help.
 

Fun Times

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Hum, From the photo, that amount does seem to be "just slightly" more than what you might call normal but it's close to normal.

Was that the top vent or bottom drain plug? Did both have that much?

Did you see any metal shavings in the oil catch pan? Color?

Just to get an idea visual for the next oil change, you'll want to pull the top cap and look to see if you see any other signs of heavy wear on the gears, etc. etc.

When you fill the drive full of oil, do you have the drive sitting level and are filling from the bottom drain plug all the way up to the reservoir inside the boat to ensure you're filling the drive/oil system full of oil and removing most air pockets?

Did you use any oil in the 40 hours of use?

Another concern would be maybe you have an oil leak going into the U-joint bellows area, in turn lowering the oil level causing extra shavings on the top end gears. Have you pulled the drive off the boat recently?
 
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Im Lon 2

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Messages
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Hum, That amount does seem to be just slightly more than what you might call normal.
That's what I was thinking.

Was that the top vent or bottom drain plug? Did both have that much?
that was the Bottom didn't see anything on top. Not sure if it has a magnet, but either way didn't see anything.

Did you see any metal shavings in the oil catch pan? Color?
Nothing that stood out. The color looked maybe a shade darker, then the new stuff, but that could be because of a different brand.

Just to get an idea visual for the next oil change, you'll want to pull the top cap and look to see if you see any other signs of heavy wear on the gears, etc. etc.
I'll have to look this up and see how to do this.

When you fill the drive full of oil, do you have the drive sitting level and are filling from the bottom drain plug all the way up to the reservoir inside the boat to ensure you're filling the drive/oil system full of oil and removing most air pockets?
Yes I filled from the bottom once it got to the top hole I capped that and then kept filling till it filled the reserve.

Did you use any oil in the 40 hours of use?
Not that I'm aware of.

Another concern would be maybe you have an oil leak going into the U-joint bellows area, in turn lowering the oil level causing extra shavings on the top end gears. Have you pulled the drive off the boat recently?
No I have not. Is there a link on how to do this and what to check for?

My plan was in the spring to run it a few times and inspect the plug for more shavings. I will also watch the lube level to make sure I'm not losing any.
 

Fun Times

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that was the Bottom didn't see anything on top. Not sure if it has a magnet, but either way didn't see anything.
Should have a magnet on the top vent screw as well.
Being it's more on the bottom, one thought would be since the shifting is done in the lower unit, it's "possible" that if you're shifting to slow going into and out of gear, you'd be dragging the forward, reverse gears on the pinion gear causing extra shavings. The alpha is designed to be shifted briskly into gear, go to slow and you get a grinding type sound that sometimes you'll hear it and sometimes you may not. Running a stainless steel prop could add to the grinding. Just throwing it out there for you is all. If that or something like it is the case, then you may not find much on the top end inspection should you decide to try it.

Nothing that stood out. The color looked maybe a shade darker, then the new stuff, but that could be because of a different brand.
Don't really want to turn this into a gear oil debate but what brand/weight oil are you using? Merc/quicksilver high performance gear oil hopefully? The color kind of looks like it.

I'll have to look this up and see how to do this.
On the top of the drive you'll see four 12 point bolts that require a 3/8 inch 12 point socket. You may need a new O-ring part number 25-32546. Torque on the top cover bolts is 20 ft.lb. http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show...r=120&bdesc=DRIVESHAFT+HOUSING+AND+DRIVESHAFT

Yes I filled from the bottom once it got to the top hole I capped that and then kept filling till it filled the reserve.
That's pretty much the best way to fill the drive oil.:)

Not that I'm aware of.
That's good, then you may not have an oil leak filling the U-joint bellows but it's good practice to pull the drive every year or two to inspect for leaks, check engine alignment using an alignment tool bar/add grease to engine coupler, inspect U-joints, gimbal bearing/add grease, add new gasket and O-rings, etc. etc. all while following along using Mercruiser service manual #14 found on the internet.

Is there a link on how to do this and what to check for?
There's hours of reading or watching videos online of how to remove and reinstall an Alpha drive like yours. Here is a bunch, just pick a few of your choice.;) http://www.bing.com/search?q=how+to...39b19e0874fe29da4f97d0de152b5&FORM=QBRE&ghc=1

My plan was in the spring to run it a few times and inspect the plug for more shavings. I will also watch the lube level to make sure I'm not losing any.
Since you didn't really see any metal shavings in the oil catch pan then that's about all you really want to do for now is keep a closer eye on it, do more oil changes and be sure to shift briskly. Of course all of this is as long as the prop or prop shaft is not bent, damaged or excessively loose.

PS, Be sure you don't let the drive sit over winter with no oil inside as it could start to build up rust deposits internally...Don't want that to happen either.;) Good luck.:)
 

JASinIL2006

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Is the top vent plug supposed to have a magnet like the bottom plug? My Gen 2 has a magnet plug in the bottom, but the top screw is only a shallow screw, no magnet or anything.
 

Im Lon 2

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Messages
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Was the lube changed last season?

I purchased the boat this past spring. The dealer ship I bought it from said they did change gear lube and oil when they winterized the boat. But either way I did change it when I changed the water pump late April early March. If they did change it, and there was an issue prior that would explain why I didn't see anything when I changed it this spring. It was only driven 3 times this spring before i had a chance to me changing the water pump. Also. I changed the water pump so I knew the last time it was changed and not taking someone word for it.


Is the top vent plug supposed to have a magnet like the bottom plug? My Gen 2 has a magnet plug in the bottom, but the top screw is only a shallow screw, no magnet or anything.

That is how mine is as well.
 

Fun Times

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Is the top vent plug supposed to have a magnet like the bottom plug? My Gen 2 has a magnet plug in the bottom, but the top screw is only a shallow screw, no magnet or anything.
Looking this over, I was incorrect thinking the alphas used a magnet on the upper vent plug, they do not utilize a magnet. It's the bravos that use a magnet on both ends. Sorry for the confusion.
 

Im Lon 2

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Sorry didn't see this reply

Should have a magnet on the top vent screw as well.
Being it's more on the bottom, one thought would be since the shifting is done in the lower unit, it's "possible" that if you're shifting to slow going into and out of gear, you'd be dragging the forward, reverse gears on the pinion gear causing extra shavings. The alpha is designed to be shifted briskly into gear, go to slow and you get a grinding type sound that sometimes you'll hear it and sometimes you may not. Running a stainless steel prop could add to the grinding. Just throwing it out there for you is all. If that or something like it is the case, then you may not find much on the top end inspection should you decide to try it.

I will have to pay attention to this. Have not noticed mine grinding when shifting slow. I know what your talking about because my uncles makes a horrible grind if you go to slow.


Don't really want to turn this into a gear oil debate but what brand/weight oil are you using? Merc/quicksilver high performance gear oil hopefully? The color kind of looks like it.
Quicksilver high performance last time, this time I used Merc


On the top of the drive you'll see four 12 point bolts that require a 3/8 inch 12 point socket. You may need a new O-ring part number 25-32546. Torque on the top cover bolts is 20 ft.lb. http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show...r=120&bdesc=DRIVESHAFT+HOUSING+AND+DRIVESHAFT
Thanks!

That's pretty much the best way to fill the drive oil.:)
that would be much quicker for sure.

That's good, then you may not have an oil leak filling the U-joint bellows but it's good practice to pull the drive every year or two to inspect for leaks, check engine alignment using an alignment tool bar/add grease to engine coupler, inspect U-joints, gimbal bearing/add grease, add new gasket and O-rings, etc. etc. all while following along using Mercruiser service manual #14 found on the internet.

There's hours of reading or watching videos online of how to remove and reinstall an Alpha drive like yours. Here is a bunch, just pick a few of your choice.;) http://www.bing.com/search?q=how+to...39b19e0874fe29da4f97d0de152b5&FORM=QBRE&ghc=1
I will go through them. Thanks.

Since you didn't really see any metal shavings in the oil catch pan then that's about all you really want to do for now is keep a closer eye on it, do more oil changes and be sure to shift briskly. Of course all of this is as long as the prop or prop shaft is not bent, damaged or excessively loose.
Hmmm.. that made me raise my eyebrow.. My prop does have a very slight bend right at the end of one of the blades. You can feel it more than see it. I had planned to look for different props over the winter or see if I can have that one fixed. It's what came with the boat from factory Aluminum 3 blade I believe 19 pitch. (wanting to change for more of "hole shot", and not concerned about "top in", but I know that is a whole different thread)

PS, Be sure you don't let the drive sit over winter with no oil inside as it could start to build up rust deposits internally...Don't want that to happen either.;) Good luck.:)
I filled it back up.
 

alldodge

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I purchased the boat this past spring. The dealer ship I bought it from said they did change gear lube and oil when they winterized the boat. But either way I did change it when I changed the water pump late April early March. If they did change it, and there was an issue prior that would explain why I didn't see anything when I changed it this spring. It was only driven 3 times this spring before i had a chance to me changing the water pump. Also. I changed the water pump so I knew the last time it was changed and not taking someone word for it.

Changed it in the spring and saw nothing out of the ordinary, changing it again after 3 times out and now you do, this does not look good.
 

Im Lon 2

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Changed it in the spring and saw nothing out of the ordinary, changing it again after 3 times out and now you do, this does not look good.

No,

I purchased the boat at the begin of April.
took it out 3 times
Changed the water pump late April early May.
put anywhere from 40-60 hours during the summer.
when winterizing it this past weekend I noticed the shavings in the gear lube.
 

alldodge

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No,

I purchased the boat at the begin of April.
took it out 3 times
Changed the water pump late April early May.
put anywhere from 40-60 hours during the summer.
when winterizing it this past weekend I noticed the shavings in the gear lube.

OK my bad, sounds better
 
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