Shift cable resistance, best lube point to possibly help?

[crazy charlie]

1988 mercruiser 5.0 twin Alpha drives.Was planning a transom service kit to be done on both drives but not until next season as my boat will just be sitting in the slip for 99% of the time this coming season. Stbd shifter has some obvious resistance when engaging in Reverse.Feels the same with drive on as well as drive removed.Wondering if any lubing would ease the resistance at all and which points to pay special attention to?? All bellows and shift cables etc will be new next season so just looking to improve a little this season.Charlie

 

[cyclops222]

Do it.

 

[Scott06]

1988 mercruiser 5.0 twin Alpha drives.Was planning a transom service kit to be done on both drives but not until next season as my boat will just be sitting in the slip for 99% of the time this coming season. Stbd shifter has some obvious resistance when engaging in Reverse.Feels the same with drive on as well as drive removed.Wondering if any lubing would ease the resistance at all and which points to pay special attention to?? All bellows and shift cables etc will be new next season so just looking to improve a little this season.Charlie

the places that lube might help are in the shift mechanism in bellhousing , drive has to be removed to get at. there is no factory lubing procedure for the shift cable. Have you verified it is the lower shift cable not from helm to shift plate? if you take the lower cable off the shift plate on the engine you should with very little effort be able to shift the drive... basically with two fingers shouldn't take much effort.

if it is hard to shift its usually either the cable or corrosion gunk built up around the swivel shaft and where cable comes in bellhousing.

 

[crazy charlie]

the places that lube might help are in the shift mechanism in bellhousing , drive has to be removed to get at. there is no factory lubing procedure for the shift cable. Have you verified it is the lower shift cable not from helm to shift plate? if you take the lower cable off the shift plate on the engine you should with very little effort be able to shift the drive... basically with two fingers shouldn't take much effort.

if it is hard to shift its usually either the cable or corrosion gunk built up around the swivel shaft and where cable comes in bellhousing.

The only things I have been able to verify at this point is that there is resistance going into reverse with the drive on and with drive off.Swivel shaft and shift arm and wheel were very well greased upon removal of the drive. Boat is shrink-wrapped and we have been averaging temps in the 20s and 30s so can't do much.Will look into removing cable from shift plate.Thanks Charlie

 

[Scott06]

The only things I have been able to verify at this point is that there is resistance going into reverse with the drive on and with drive off.Swivel shaft and shift arm and wheel were very well greased upon removal of the drive. Boat is shrink-wrapped and we have been averaging temps in the 20s and 30s so can't do much.Will look into removing cable from shift plate.Thanks Charlie

Ok missed the fact that it is on land would take a look and see if it is in the cable (most likely) or elsewhere. the good thing about doing he bellows and shift cables , if you use OEM parts will last a long time. I just did mine a couple springs ago the originals were 18 yrs old.

 

[Lou C]

What I'd do (and have done) is disconnect the cable at both ends and measure the drag with a fish scale. I don't know Merc's spec but I know that on the OMC I have had all these years the spec is no more than 2.5 lbs, full travel in both directions. I bought a NOS cable as a spare and it had 4 lbs drag! Wound up buying an aftermarket Sierra and it checked out perfect. Meanwhile my OEM cable on the boat is still good.
Start with knowing the cable is good and go from there.

 

[crazy charlie]

Ok missed the fact that it is on land would take a look and see if it is in the cable (most likely) or elsewhere. the good thing about doing he bellows and shift cables , if you use OEM parts will last a long time. I just did mine a couple springs ago the originals were 18 yrs old.

WOW!! 18 years is a long time.I tend to agree on the Oem parts although I have used both .Approx 22 years ago I bought 2 aftermarket transom kits on ebay and had them professionally installed,after approx 10 years I had the transom kits done again with Oem.The 10 year old aftermarket equipment looked fine.We will see how the Oem held up next season when I have them done again.Once installed,.I always slather marine grease all over each of the bellows into the creases and extra on any chafing points.Its not easy getting your hands and fingers into those tight spots .I also use an extender on my grease gun to get in spots that I can't got my fingers.Not sure how long it lasts submerged because there is never any grease left when I haul approx 5 months later. Charlie

 

[Scott06]

WOW!! 18 years is a long time.I tend to agree on the Oem parts although I have used both .Approx 22 years ago I bought 2 aftermarket transom kits on ebay and had them professionally installed,after approx 10 years I had the transom kits done again with Oem.The 10 year old aftermarket equipment looked fine.We will see how the Oem held up next season when I have them done again.Once installed,.I always slather marine grease all over each of the bellows into the creases and extra on any chafing points.Its not easy getting your hands and fingers into those tight spots .I also use an extender on my grease gun to get in spots that I can't got my fingers.Not sure how long it lasts submerged because there is never any grease left when I haul approx 5 months later. Charlie

fresh water hoist kept lake boat... I figured if the next set lasts 15 years I'll probably be into another boat by then... only the exhaust bellows was torn shift and driveshaft were still water tight.

yes you need small hands. mine was on the trailer so I was on my knees or upside down in engine compartment...

 

[crazy charlie]

fresh water hoist kept lake boat...

Lol,I have the opposite.Salt water and Im floating from mid May until Nov 1st. Barnacles and little crustacea like to grow in the creases of the bellows so I try to get grease into every crease to deter the growth and help preserve the rubber. Charlie

 

[Lou C]

Best to use silicone grease for this because it doesn’t degrade the rubber.
I’m in the same environment as you Charlie, moored in Long Island salt water May to Nov. I usually spray my bellows with Trilux anti fouling but it peels off. Still I get at least 10 years out of a set of bellows. I thought of mixing a flex agent into the paint like body shops do when painting plastic bumpers.

 

[cyclops222]

How do the little guys climb up to the bellows ? Very high bilge water level ?

 

[Lou C]

They grow all over everything on the drive unless you paint it with 2 coats of Trilux!

 

[crazy charlie]

They grow all over everything on the drive unless you paint it with 2 coats of Trilux!

Even with the Trilux ($50 a can) I still get some growth.Especially on the topside of the trim tabs and undersides of the bell housing in the area of the shift cable bellows and ss clamps thats why I slather on the grease after Trilux.3-4 years ago I couldn't stop the barnacles from growing on the drives and tabs.The last 2 years I have had some long whitish coral looking crap.Looks like tiny tubes and they spread like veins.Last year there was some thick spongy looking crap all over the drives and tabs.Looked horrible but came right off with pressure washer.Frustrating but THATS the Great South Bay on Long Island. Charlie

 

[Lou C]

North Shore Huntington/Northport is the same thing Charlie!