Shift problem '58 BigTwin 35

54fleetwin

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Well I replaced all the bearings and seals in the lower unit, rebuilt the carb, replaced coils, points, condensors, plugs and some other bits.

Put it on my 14' aluminum Crestliner, adjusted the cables, tested the engine in a barrel including shifting.

Go to the lake, back away from the dock fine. Get it out past the no wake zone and opened her up, fine tuned the high speed.
This thing flies, about 35 mph, came to stop and it wont shift to nuetral.
Disconnect the cable and it is still stuck forward, trying to turn the prop while trying to shift it makes no difference.

Anyone have any ideas before I go out and start taking things apart?
 

tx1961whaler

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Re: Shift problem '58 BigTwin 35

Well I replaced all the bearings and seals in the lower unit, rebuilt the carb, replaced coils, points, condensors, plugs and some other bits.

Put it on my 14' aluminum Crestliner, adjusted the cables, tested the engine in a barrel including shifting.

Go to the lake, back away from the dock fine. Get it out past the no wake zone and opened her up, fine tuned the high speed.
This thing flies, about 35 mph, came to stop and it wont shift to nuetral.
Disconnect the cable and it is still stuck forward, trying to turn the prop while trying to shift it makes no difference.

Anyone have any ideas before I go out and start taking things apart?

Shift rod connector (coupler) ?
 

lindy46

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Re: Shift problem '58 BigTwin 35

If the shift coupler isn't the problem, are you sure you got the shift yoke/pivot pin installed correctly?
 

54fleetwin

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Re: Shift problem '58 BigTwin 35

If the shift coupler isn't the problem, are you sure you got the shift yoke/pivot pin installed correctly?

I never removed it

Connector is the first thing I will be checking
 

lindy46

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Re: Shift problem '58 BigTwin 35

How did you do a seal job on the gearcase without splitting the gearcase and removing the shift rod/pivot pin?
 

54fleetwin

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Re: Shift problem '58 BigTwin 35

You dont need to remove that pin to split the gear case
 

54fleetwin

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Re: Shift problem '58 BigTwin 35

OK easy fix.
Timing plate/carb adjust/nuetral reverse stop
 

Joe Reeves

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Re: Shift problem '58 BigTwin 35

If you do not remove the internal lever philips pivot pin/screw, there is no way you can remove the skeg UNLESS you pull the lower shift rod out of the lower unit which in turn distrubs the propshaft seating scenario. If this is attempted, it's highly unlikely that you'll be successful in getting that internal shift lever reinstalled properly within the shifter dog cradle. Perhaps I misunderstood the above statement?

Check the vertical shift lock out lever to see if the timing base armature plate is still advanced which will prevent the shift lever from moving.
 

54fleetwin

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Re: Shift problem '58 BigTwin 35

If you do not remove the internal lever philips pivot pin/screw, there is no way you can remove the skeg UNLESS you pull the lower shift rod out of the lower unit which in turn distrubs the propshaft seating scenario. If this is attempted, it's highly unlikely that you'll be successful in getting that internal shift lever reinstalled properly within the shifter dog cradle..

????
The bearings in the lower unit were replaced w/o removing the phillips screw from the skeg.
It wasn't an issue.

Check the vertical shift lock out lever to see if the timing base armature plate is still advanced which will prevent the shift lever from moving.

Thats what I was saying above, inproper low speed mixture caused me to adjust the idle screw to high. That was adjusted while the motor was in gear.
Well that put the timing plate in the way of the lockout.
 

Joe Reeves

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Re: Shift problem '58 BigTwin 35

54Fleetwin.... You state: "???? The bearings in the lower unit were replaced w/o removing the phillips screw from the skeg. It wasn't an issue.

I for one would be interested in how that was accomplished.
 

lindy46

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Re: Shift problem '58 BigTwin 35

54Fleetwin.... You state: "???? The bearings in the lower unit were replaced w/o removing the phillips screw from the skeg. It wasn't an issue.

I for one would be interested in how that was accomplished.

Yeah, you got me:confused: I can't figure that one out either. I guess you could pull everything out with the skeg (propshaft and all the gears and bearings). Since the shift rod wraps around the propshaft and gears, everything would remain in the skeg. Seems like changing bearings would be difficult, and getting it all back together properly would be a challenge.
 

54fleetwin

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Re: Shift problem '58 BigTwin 35

There really wasn't any grave difficulty in removing the shaft and all its components. I wanted to remove that screw but it was not coming out even with an impact driver, so I worked around it.
If I remeber correctly, I could not assemble everything on the shaft and drop it in.
Seal head and bearing were slid on after lowering the shaft in. There is enough room to pull the shift rod up enough to raise the shaft enough to slide the seal head and bearing on.
And yes the locate pin and the spring clip lined up.
 

54fleetwin

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Re: Shift problem '58 BigTwin 35

Now to change the subject. My real issue is the l/s screw on the carb.
When I took the carb apart for the rebuild the threaded bushing for the l/s screw came out with the screw.
After cleaning up the threadeds and using some lube, I thought I was going to be alright since the packing nut holds this bushing in.
However, l/s adjustment on the water seemed non responsive and she was rich and blubbery. Which caused me to adjust the idle screw, which advanced the timing plate to far which engaged the lock out.
 

lindy46

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Re: Shift problem '58 BigTwin 35

I've found that sometime you have to tighten the packing nut pretty tight to keep that bushing from spinning when you turn the needle. Obviously, if it turns with the needle, adjustment is impossible.
 

samo_ott

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Re: Shift problem '58 BigTwin 35

I'm with the rest of them. I find it very hard to imagine re-doing the lower unit with out taking the shift screw out but it does sound like you did it. Wow.

As for the low speed adjust, yes, I've had the bushing come out also... You have to tighten it up a lot to hold it...
 
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