SHIFTING PROBLEMS

FSTLANES

Recruit
Joined
Jan 26, 2007
Messages
3
I have a 1987 Force 85hp. It will run at 33-35mph then suddenly drop to 8mph full throtle. If I put in neutral and throw it in hard into reverse for about 2 seconds it will then run at top speed again. What would be the cause?
 

eurolarva

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jun 24, 2003
Messages
4,182
Re: SHIFTING PROBLEMS

When it drops down to 8 mph do the rpms drop as well?
 

JUSTINTIME

Captain
Joined
Sep 2, 2006
Messages
3,284
Re: SHIFTING PROBLEMS

u will need to check
fuel lines
vent line
carbs
fuel pump
fuel bulb

does the fuel bulb go flat
 

FSTLANES

Recruit
Joined
Jan 26, 2007
Messages
3
Re: SHIFTING PROBLEMS

FSTLANES said:
I have a 1987 Force 85hp. It will run at 33-35mph then suddenly drop to 8mph full throtle. If I put in neutral and throw it in hard into reverse for about 2 seconds it will then run at top speed again. What would be the cause?
 

Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
Re: SHIFTING PROBLEMS

Sounds like your carbs go low at full throttle then refill at idle. Or, it could be something dumb like the fuel in the tank runs away from the pick-up in forward. (broken or misplaced fuel pick-up) This would only happen when the tank was low or partially filled. In reverse, the fuel sloshes toward the pick-up and the engine gets fuel and runs fine again for a while

First check the screen in the tank. Then check the screen on the fuel pump inlet. If either is gunked up, it may not be letting the pump work to full efficiency. Have you mixed gasoline containing ethanol with gasoline containing the other additive (I think it's called MBTA)? In the presence of moisture (boat tanks) this forms an insoluable floc which will clog filters and pumps. Either type alone is ok; it's the mixture that causes problems

Could be fuel pump starting to go bad and letting the carbs go low at full throttle. When you idle it fills them back up and off you go until the next time they go dry. Take the pump apart and check both the diaphragm and the check valves. The diaphragm should be quite flexible, not have any pinholes, and not be cracked. The check valves (3 of em) should be closed and open easily under either pressure or vacuum depending upon position in the pump. The plastic discs should have no cracks or cuts in them, and the valves should hold pressure or vacuum (again depending on position in pump)with very minor leakage acceptable. while you have the pump apart, replace the diaphragm and gasket anyway! It's a cheap preventive maintenance.
 
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