Shimmy and Shake at mid-RPM's

Ralphy

Petty Officer 1st Class
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May 7, 2004
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280
Re: Shimmy and Shake at mid-RPM's

Nope, runs on premix 50:1 87 octane.
 

Ralphy

Petty Officer 1st Class
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May 7, 2004
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280
Re: Shimmy and Shake at mid-RPM's

Well, was reading thru the manual last night and learned that S.L.O.W. is designed to kick in at 240* and then reset when it cools back down to 207*. Since i'm not getting anywhere near that hot, do you think it is going into S.L.O.W. mode or is there some other problem going on here?
 

Walker

Captain
Joined
Jun 15, 2002
Messages
3,085
Re: Shimmy and Shake at mid-RPM's

Ralphy, as I stated before the S.L.O.W. mode itself is in the power pack. It is supposed to work when receiving a signal (ground circuit) from the heat sensor. Either of these components can fail and cause to motor to go into S.L.O.W. even though the motor is not overheating. Your manual should have testing procedures listed for the entire S.L.O.W. system.
 

Ralphy

Petty Officer 1st Class
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May 7, 2004
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280
Re: Shimmy and Shake at mid-RPM's

Ok, thanx Walker. I did see test procedure for the temp sensor, so guess I will start there. Dont remember seeing anything for S.L.O.W. system itself, but will look more tonight. I appreciate all the insight and am enjoying the learning experience with all of your help.
 

Ralphy

Petty Officer 1st Class
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May 7, 2004
Messages
280
Re: Shimmy and Shake at mid-RPM's

Read a post on another "helpme" web site that alluded to checking the tan wires in relation to spark plug wires. If they get too close the sensor can pick up a bad read from the spark and send the system into S.L.O.W. intermittently. I will not be able to check this until the weekend, but anyone hear of or able to verify this as a possiblity? Thanx in advance.
 

Daniel Beckman

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jul 8, 2002
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171
Re: Shimmy and Shake at mid-RPM's

Hi Ralphy.<br />I did have the same prob read my post about dropping rpm.<br />I did everthing to finaly found out that it was the shift switch that made the engine do like you say (mine start to stutter at about 4800 rpm)
 

Ralphy

Petty Officer 1st Class
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May 7, 2004
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280
Re: Shimmy and Shake at mid-RPM's

Ok took her out for a good run today. When I disconnect Temp sensor at the connector closest to the sensor(tan/blue), it stills drops into S.L.O.W. When i disconnected at the connector that comes off the "T" going to the engine harness(solid Tan), it ran like a dream. Went for almost 4 hours without a hiccup. Now the manual talks about a Diode that is in line on the solid tan wire that is between the tan/blue connector and the 6-pin Deutsch connector. Manuals says it should show high resistance in one direction, and low in the other. Dont have an OHM meter so I guess I will have to get one and check it. Is this diode easy to replace and *crossing fingers and whispering prayer* fairly inexpensive??? Thanx for all the help, I think we are very close to being all better.
 

Ralphy

Petty Officer 1st Class
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May 7, 2004
Messages
280
Re: Shimmy and Shake at mid-RPM's

Ok...I do have an OHM meter so will go check it out in the A.M. One more stupid question, not much of an electrician here. Manual says to calibrate ohmmeter on appropriate scale. What would be appropriate scale???
 

ob

Admiral
Joined
Aug 16, 2002
Messages
6,992
Re: Shimmy and Shake at mid-RPM's

Reading in the low resistance direction through diode place the meter in the R x 1 to R x 10 scale and zero it out touching the two meter leads.Reading in the high resistance direction through the diode ,place the meter in a higher range of either R x 1000 or R x 10,000.Diodes are cheap.Think of them as a sort of electrical check valve that allows flow in one direction.
 

Ralphy

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 7, 2004
Messages
280
Re: Shimmy and Shake at mid-RPM's

Thanx ob...tried to run the diagnostic but could not get a good read. Ohm meter I have just has probes and Im gonna need to adapt some alligator clips for this job. Leaning out over water trying to probe two loose wires takes way more coordination than this old guy has left :)<br />Need one more piece of advice if anyone can help.<br /><br />Im almost certain that this diode is going to be where the problem is. The manual states "On remote electric start models, if the engine goes into S.L.O.W. repeatedly or if the engine goes into S.L.O.W. without an operator warning signal, check the engine harness blocking diode.<br />The schematic shows the diode 10 1/2 inches from the Deutsch connector. Can anyone tell me <br />a.)what does the diode look like?<br />b.)how do I get to it? <br />I followed the tan wire from the sensor to the Deutsch connector as best I can visually, but it is taped up with quite a few other wires at one point and they all seem to be tucked up under the power head, but not knowing what I am looking for doesnt make it any easier...Thanx again for everyones help.
 

Paul Moir

Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2002
Messages
6,847
Re: Shimmy and Shake at mid-RPM's

If you are using a digital meter to test your diode, use the diode check function on your meter rather than the resistance (ohm) scale. The 'icon' for it looks like this:<br />
Code:
 -|<- or ->|-
A good diode will read .3v - .7v (diode drop) in one direction, and offscale in the other.<br />Testing diodes with the resistance scale will not work on all meters correctly, and digital meters particulairly, since it's a misapplication of the resistance test. You would think in this day and age, they could correct the procedures in the manuals. It's really outragous.
 

Ralphy

Petty Officer 1st Class
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May 7, 2004
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Re: Shimmy and Shake at mid-RPM's

Hey thanx for that tip Paul. I am using a digital meter and it does have the diode check function as you described. Still looking for someone who has changed out on of these "engine harness blocking diodes" before. Any direction would be most appreciated.<br />Thanx,<br />Ralphy
 

Ralphy

Petty Officer 1st Class
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May 7, 2004
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Re: Shimmy and Shake at mid-RPM's

Well I'm about at my wits end. Got a good read on the diode. 0.467 on one end and infinity on the other so appears diode is fine. So the next step was to test the sensor. Removed it, brought it home and put it in an oil bath. Switch closed right at 240* just like the book says. Manual does not give me any more troubleshoots or places to look so I guess Im lookin at a trip to the shop and who knows when I will get it back at this time of the season. I gotta learn how to fix these things. Thanx for all your input and help guys.
 

dgassy

Cadet
Joined
May 30, 2004
Messages
27
Re: Shimmy and Shake at mid-RPM's

RALPHY just a thought - it's possible that you have a short in shift/throttle control. use your manual and try to isolate the kill switch<br /><br />good luck<br /><br />dgassy
 

Ralphy

Petty Officer 1st Class
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May 7, 2004
Messages
280
Re: Shimmy and Shake at mid-RPM's

Thanx dgassy, but the engine is on a pontoon boat and is not equipped with the kill switch.<br />The only thing left that I can see is a defective power pack, but the manual does not give any troubleshoots for testing. :confused: <br />Hate to buy a new one just based on a guess. Any ideas anyone? Thanx again.
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: Shimmy and Shake at mid-RPM's

Engine not running, key in ON position, ground that TAN wire (heat sensor) at the cylinder head. The warning horn should sound. Does it?
 

Beck

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 24, 2004
Messages
165
Re: Shimmy and Shake at mid-RPM's

Hey Ralphy,<br /><br />The conditions you are describing does indeed sound like S.L.O.W. and my '89 48 spl did the same thing to me about 6-8 months ago. Ran fine for years then out the blue it started to shimmy and shake like it wanted to jump off of the transom. I checked all the things the fellows here recommended, temp. (with a infered thermometer and touch method), fuel pressure, spark, check my compression, everything was right on. As much as I hated to I purchased a new power pak for about 109.00 from a omc dealer and that was my problem, motor runs fine now. The strange thing was that it would run fine all the way to wot then out the blue it would start acting up again. And when it ran fine it would run for different length of time before it would act up again. The only diff. is that my engine would not go over 2k rpm but my tack may be off a little. <br /><br />Beck
 

Ralphy

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 7, 2004
Messages
280
Re: Shimmy and Shake at mid-RPM's

Joe--thanx for checking in for me. I grounded temp sensor wire and alarm light comes on. Manual says horn will not sound on that test.<br /><br />Beck--I am thinking that the only thing left is powerpack too, but sure would like to know for sure before dropping $100+ on it. Thanks for the input.
 
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