should i cut the floor back ?

[1975oday22]

ok. in order to either make a door or get a door already made. i think i would need to cut this floor back to accomodate the swing open? should i cut this back or leave it and make door smaller? maybe go to back of the seats and make a small step down?

 

[havoc_squad]

The more you make it look like factory/original the better.

It doesn't have to look "antique" but it better match the form and fitment, because if it looks like a hack job with permenant changes that can't be fixed and you try to sell it, people will push the price down alot from the fair market value.

Speaking of fair value, keep in mind it will only be worth close to fair market value (NADA value), not how much you spent restoring it. So be careful how much you spend restoring/upgrading because a lot you will never get back if you have to sell or if you have an insurance claim filed for damage.

Do not cut the door opening wider as the boat was made for a narrow entrance with a thin door.

It looks like you got the measurement wrong on the passenger side front floor area near the door, as it does not allow enough surface area for the door hinge mounting from top to bottom.

See the photo below of factory door hinge on the left and you'll see the error you made when you look at your photo at your door entrance.

Fix the error for the door hinge mounting room blocked and build the door to mount like the factory or as close to it as possible. The less re-inventing the wheel the better.

The challenge might be finding a way to get a good door locking setup that replaces what existed from the factory that looks good and minimizes permeant changes or finding one used on some website like E-bay that would the match the pre-existing factory door lock/handle.

 

[1975oday22]

wasnt planning on cutting the door opening. when i got this boat, the po had redecked over the existing floor and brought it up to where you see it now. i am trying to decide wether or not to cut this redeck to behind the seat boxes or leave it and make a smaller door in height to fit the opening. i will not be selling this. i may end up trading for a bigger cabin cruiser once i fix this one up and prove to the guy that this runs and is solid.

 

[IslandExplorer]

wasnt planning on cutting the door opening. when i got this boat, the po had redecked over the existing floor and brought it up to where you see it now. i am trying to decide wether or not to cut this redeck to behind the seat boxes or leave it and make a smaller door in height to fit the opening. i will not be selling this. i may end up trading for a bigger cabin cruiser once i fix this one up and prove to the guy that this runs and is solid.

I'd just trim the bottom edge back to where it works. I mean, why not? If you ever wanted to be more original you could add a little strip back to the bottom if redeck was removed. That seems the simplest to me. It's cool that it has what looks like the OG aluminum door!

 

[1975oday22]

I'd just trim the bottom edge back to where it works. I mean, why not? If you ever wanted to be more original you could add a little strip back to the bottom if redeck was removed. That seems the simplest to me. It's cool that it has what looks like the OG aluminum door!

there was no door when i got this boat. it was suggested to me by my neighbour to make a sliding door. maybe? but i also have to flip the port side wall over to starboard, then i have to get another piece of ply to redo the port side. so i might end up making a slider instead....thinner of course to accomodate the slider and wall in same track.

 

[IslandExplorer]

there was no door when i got this boat. it was suggested to me by my neighbour to make a sliding door. maybe? but i also have to flip the port side wall over to starboard, then i have to get another piece of ply to redo the port side. so i might end up making a slider instead....thinner of course to accomodate the slider and wall in same track.

That's right, my bad, I was really tired reading this and forgot the door was missing originally. Seems common as my Starchief was missing its door too.. I like the sliding door idea the most. It seems any door is a bit of a pain to make it work just right especially on a boat that flexes a bit in waves and whatnot so sliding, if possible, would be sweet! Open doors on boats always seem to be in the way if not a slider.

 

[1975oday22]

That's right, my bad, I was really tired reading this and forgot the door was missing originally. Seems common as my Starchief was missing its door too.. I like the sliding door idea the most. It seems any door is a bit of a pain to make it work just right especially on a boat that flexes a bit in waves and whatnot so sliding, if possible, would be sweet! Open doors on boats always seem to be in the way if not a slider.

thats the way im leaning as of now.... sliding it is.... lol actually pocket door maybe more like it. a slider can be kicked open. i will let you know how the prototype works out when i can get the materials to do it.

 

[1975oday22]

well i got the port side wall taken out. going to flip it so its on starboard side. (wich is rotten anyways) the piece i was going to replace the port side with is thinner , but it wont work as its about 1/2 inch shy of the top and its not wide enough to make full contact with the side of the boat. working on removing the starboard side tommorow.

 

[1975oday22]

The more you make it look like factory/original the better.

It doesn't have to look "antique" but it better match the form and fitment, because if it looks like a hack job with permenant changes that can't be fixed and you try to sell it, people will push the price down alot from the fair market value.

Speaking of fair value, keep in mind it will only be worth close to fair market value (NADA value), not how much you spent restoring it. So be careful how much you spend restoring/upgrading because a lot you will never get back if you have to sell or if you have an insurance claim filed for damage.

Do not cut the door opening wider as the boat was made for a narrow entrance with a thin door.

It looks like you got the measurement wrong on the passenger side front floor area near the door, as it does not allow enough surface area for the door hinge mounting from top to bottom.

See the photo below of factory door hinge on the left and you'll see the error you made when you look at your photo at your door entrance.

Fix the error for the door hinge mounting room blocked and build the door to mount like the factory or as close to it as possible. The less re-inventing the wheel the better.

The challenge might be finding a way to get a good door locking setup that replaces what existed from the factory that looks good and minimizes permeant changes or finding one used on some website like E-bay that would the match the pre-existing factory door lock/handle.

as stated. i got the boat this way. as for door. i will install a keypad entry . maybe even chop a solid door down to fit this as well. should be thick enough. also going to use bolts on hinges instead of screws.

 

[1975oday22]

got the wall in today.... what a struggle that was. now just need to get a piece of plywood to do the port side. not sure thickness but its thick .... gotta finish the wrap , then wait on my new helm. going to make a full stand up box, instead of the half console look.

 

[IslandExplorer]

Thing looks huge with the wall out! Great perspective shot of the layout. My cabin walls were replaced at some point and do not go all the way to the hull sides. I'm going to put a filler piece in later to correct that. My wall is 3/4" thick and connects into a channel that runs across the top. You could go plywood but don't have to. The previous owner of mine put solid (looks like oak?) planks in and I like the look. But now I'm wondering if it was because they'd be easier to install!? If it's exposed the planks would look nice, if vinyl covering then plywood would probably be cheapest.

 

[IslandExplorer]

thats the way im leaning as of now.... sliding it is.... lol actually pocket door maybe more like it. a slider can be kicked open. i will let you know how the prototype works out when i can get the materials to do it.

It really is a tough decision! After much consideration I am 100% sold on the sliding type door as well, so our Chief's will be similar in that way. I mostly planned mine out last night after 10+ mind changes lol and am building it today. Which way/side do you think you'll go with the slider? I'm thinking mine will retract into port side wall. What thickness and material do you think you'll go with? Any porthole(s) or window(s)?
Very interested to see what you're going to do!

 

[1975oday22]

your on the same wave as i am.... it will be port side slide. although im going to use 1/4 inch maybe less then sandwich the door in between those to make it a good fit...... i was also thinking of a window, but probly not as the door will be a slider. the material i will use is 2 sheets ply and an aluminum skinned epoxy resin that my sign guy carries..... wich will end up being the slider.....

 

[IslandExplorer]

I still haven't decided on the thickness for mine. I was thinking I'd do a single 5/8 sheet as the door, cut out opening for window and glue on plexi glass. Then add a 1/2 ply wall to cabin that the door will slide behind. That way that surface can have things mounted to it. The aluminum skinned epoxy sounds interesting and way more waterproof!

 

[1975oday22]

I will most likely be using some sort of aluminum channel , making the door slide to port side with the piece of plywood i have now its half thickness of original track . so it will be a nice fit. .

 

[1975oday22]

as per our convo and link sent on update. my slider door is now off the table. im going to find a solid core door. use piano hinges and be done with it. also going electronic keyless entry .......

 

[DeanoD13]

ok. in order to either make a door or get a door already made. i think i would need to cut this floor back to accomodate the swing open? should i cut this back or leave it and make door smaller? maybe go to back of the seats and make a small step down?

Have you thought of using split doors. Build or buy a door that fits an split it down the middle, hinge both sides and half swings to each side, use good wood no warpage, and they look and work good for small entryways...

 

[1975oday22]

Have you thought of using split doors. Build or buy a door that fits an split it down the middle, hinge both sides and half swings to each side, use good wood no warpage, and they look and work good for small entryways...

too easy to break into..... solid core door is the way im going with it....