Should I work on it or part it out? (fleetwin)

[jdbwvd]

Hello all,

My name is Jonathan, first time poster, long time lurker. I've got a 1955 7.5 Evinrude Fleetwin (7518) that came with an old 14' semi-vee boat I bought years ago. Since now, I've only fished on lakes that did not allow gas motors (I used a transon mount troller). But, I'm thinking about bringing this old engine into service. I've read many many threads around here, and a couple rebuild guides online.

Before I got too deep, I did a compression test. Mind you this engine hasn't run in at least 6 years. At first, I only got 65 psi per cylinder. I fogged some wd-40 into the cylinders, and got 75 psi each. It's a bit low, but its even. I pulled the exhaust valve covers off and examined the pistons/rings. They look good, and they are tight but free in their groves.

So my conclusion is that the compression is low, but even. The fact that a wet compression test yielded improved results means (to my automotive self) that the rings/cylinders are worn a bit, and that the low compression probably isn't due to a gasket or something easy. Does this motor have enough life left in it to spend the money to rebuild the gas tank, carb and impeller?

Thanks for the input, and I aplogize if this has been answered before.

Jonathan

 

[jbjennings]

Re: Should I work on it or part it out? (fleetwin)

Jonathan,
65lbs. is pretty borderline to me. The carb and impeller are pretty cheap. However, you also don't know if the lower unit is any good and thats what I would look at first. It's a big pain but I think before I spent any money on it I'd look at the clutch dog and gears by cracking the lower unit, also checking for water inside. Also, compression gauges are notorious for being off and unless I had total confidence in it's accuracy, wouldn't trust it since your cylinders are so close. Next question: What is wrong with your tank? Does the primer work? IF so, I'd get myself some felpro black fiber gasket material from the local auto store and cut a new gasket for the tank and reseal it that way cheaply. You might even get by with just cleaning the carb. there's a good chance the old cork float is shriveled up or just bad but a new one is only about 8 dollars.
Last of all, if it really was 65lbs. I probably wouldn't invest much money in it. If it is actually 65lbs. even, it's just plain worn out and the lower unit is probably worn out, too.
Just my opinion,
JBJ

 

[jdbwvd]

Re: Should I work on it or part it out? (fleetwin)

Thanks for the advice. I don't really want to purchase a workshop manual until I can convince myself that the motor is worth saving, so... Can you tell me what to look for on the clutch dog and gears? Just wear? On cracking the lower unit, does it follow the same procedure as Tom outlined on his website for a 1954-1964 Johnson CD series 5.5 Seahorse?

http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repair.com/Default.htm

I'll try to come up with a couple more compression gauges to try. The gas tank leaks badly from around the primer shaft, enough so that if you leave it out in the sun, the vapor pressure is enough to weep gas all over the top. One piece of good news... I know the coils are replacements (blue color).

If this engine isn't worth saving, I've got an old TD-20 I can look at, and a mid sixties Sea King that has about 20 hours on it (my grandpa's...)

Thanks again,
Jonathan

 

[samo_ott]

Re: Should I work on it or part it out? (fleetwin)

It is borderline. As mentioned , try another gauge. Also, a decarb might help once it's up and running. The lower units are the same as the 5.5 so yes you can follow Tom's thread.

As for the TD 20? They're hard to find parts for... I'd be more apt to get the Fleetwin running.

Have you tried running it at all yet? I'd try that before deciding to part it out. It might run ok. Especially if the coils are newer.

Also wd40 is not the best fogging oil, it's more a solvent... try seafoam or the OMC fogging oil.

 

[jdbwvd]

Re: Should I work on it or part it out? (fleetwin)

Yeah, I ran it for a short time in a water tank about 6 years ago. Was only popping on one cylinder at first, but I snugged up the original plug wires and it ran on two. I didn't trust it out on the water until I had time to go through it. Six years later.... haha. I'll crack the lower unit and tell you what I find.

Bummer on parts for the TD-20, that was my great uncle's. It looks good sitting in my shop anyways.

 

[rolmops]

Re: Should I work on it or part it out? (fleetwin)

That 65 pounds on an engine of that type is not uncommon at all.I would say that it is a keeper.
If you dump some seafoam in the cylinders you may loosen up the rings a bit, add to that a decarb and your engine is probably good to go

 

[wbeaton]

Re: Should I work on it or part it out? (fleetwin)

65 psi is fine for that motor. They can run down to +50 psi. Lower units and parts are easy to find for that motor, as well. The 5.5 hp shares the same lower unit, but the prop is different. In fact, the 5.5 hp is basically the same motor so go ahead and follow the tune-up stuff on Tom's site. Ignore the "dangerous" pressure tank stuff. Check the coils. They are usually bad. Total tune-up and gearcase re-seal will be in the neighbourhood or $150-200.

If you get bogged down just post on here and we'll help you out. I have several of these little motors (1954, 1955, 1956 x 2, 1958 x2) and they run great. Just don't expect to set any records. I get about 15kmh/10mph on my boat.

 

[jbjennings]

Re: Should I work on it or part it out? (fleetwin)

If Wayne says 65lbs. is fine, I'd definitely fix it. Those motors are really good and easy to work on. I personally, have never had a motor that had 65lbs. that wasn't boogered up but Wayne's had a heck of a lot more of 'em than me so I'd trust his judgement. Also, you said you checked the piston rings and probably would have noticed some scratches/gouges on the pistons when you turned the flywheel with the intake or exhaust covers off, so that's a good sign. Since Wayne says 65 is o.k., I would get it running and test it on the lake before cracking the lower unit. You'll know pretty quick if it'll hold gear wide open without jumping out. If you have cracked the lower unit, you'll see on the clutch dog and gear ears (only on one side of the clutch dogs and ears) that the edges of the dog ears and gear ears there will be a tiny bit of rounding. IF there are chips or a lot of rounding off, they're probably no good. If it has been shifted correctly, they could very well be in great shape.
Once again, you may actually have more than 65lbs. and your gauge just isn't reading correctly. Did you pull it several times and take the highest reaading. Did you pull it pretty hard? SOmetimes that makes a difference, too.
Good luck,
JBJ

 

[jdbwvd]

Re: Should I work on it or part it out? (fleetwin)

10 mph is still a lot faster than the 3 mph I get out of a 30 lb thrust Minnkota

On the compression check, I pulled it briskly and repeatedly till the reading topped out. I also checked the gauge against two others, and they all agree. When the engine was bone dry, i got 65 psi. When I put a half teaspoon of 30 wt in each cylinder and worked them for a while, I got 90 on top, 85 on bottom. About 50 pulls and 5 hours later, I still get 90/85. Now of course the "wet compression" test will yield higher values, but in my experience with car engines, the oil gets past the rings pretty quickly and you return to the old value. That didn't happen here. I wonder if there's a difference between the compression of a "dry" cylinder and a "bone dry" cylinder from being stored for 5 years.

Anyways, sounds like the consensus is that I should keep moving forward. I'll examine the lower unit soon. I won't be getting into the boat for another couple weeks, so I've got time to play around.

Thanks for the advice, more to come
Jonathan

 

[samo_ott]

Re: Should I work on it or part it out? (fleetwin)

Good down til 50#'s each? Wow, at that low he'll barely be going faster than with the trolling motor!

 

[jdbwvd]

Re: Should I work on it or part it out? (fleetwin)

Has anybody ever scanned in the parts diagrams for the 1955 fleetwin? Or owner's manual? I can see paying 30 dollars for a service manual, but not for 10 sheets of stapled paper. That's highway robbery.

Looks like I avoided robbery on the service manual... I just ordered it from Ken Cook, and i got it for 21.95 plus shipping (around 30), and now I looked at the same website, and they have raised it to 48.24 without shipping! Maybe I am the benefactor of a typo?

Jonathan

 

[wbeaton]

Re: Should I work on it or part it out? (fleetwin)

I can help you out with a parts manual for a 1956. Everything important is the same. Only the midsection is different. PM me your email and I'll send it to you.

 

[jdbwvd]

Re: Should I work on it or part it out? (fleetwin)

Hello all,

This morning, I finally had time to drop the lower unit and check out the gears and face clutch in the gearbox for wear. I have attached pictures of the clutch dogs to gather your opinions as to whether or not these will slip out of gear. The dogs on the gears aren't damaged noticeably at all. You'll notice the pictures are labeled for F1, F2, R1, and R2, noting which side the dogs are on (forward or reverse).

I took some quick measurements too. The dogs are about 180 tall, and the undamaged portions are 120/130 tall on the forward gear side, and 140/140 tall on the reverse side. My thinking was that I could switch the face clutch around so that the less worn dogs are now on forward instead of reverse.

The rest of the gearbox looks good, except that the thrust bearing for fwd is a bit damaged.

Thanks for your time,
Jonathan

 

[jdbwvd]

Re: Should I work on it or part it out? (fleetwin)

bump for some help before the weekend is out

Jonathan

 

[samo_ott]

Re: Should I work on it or part it out? (fleetwin)

The reverse side looks good. If it fits, I reverse it and re-install. But I don't know if that model is reversible or not.

 

[jdbwvd]

Re: Should I work on it or part it out? (fleetwin)

My examination shows that it's reversible... if it isn't supposed to be, I can almost guarantee there are a lot that are anyways because there are no features to the parts that disallows assembly in either direction.

Jonathan