should my high speed idle needle valve be blunt?

[robot]

I've solved all of the standard problems on my 1957 Johnson 35HP javelin big twin.clean/rebuild carb/replace all of the cheap stuff (lines/filters).

low speed idle and starting difficulties are gone! thanks tashasdaddy and others...


now I'm dealing with high speed idle problems.

attached is the clymer page for the carb in my boat.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v357/robotgoesnuts/boat/scan0003.jpg

the low speed needle valve(#5 of the scan) on my motor looks just like this:
=======/////----->

my high speed needle valve(#4 on the scan) on my motor looks like this:
======//////|

i assume that in the past someone managed to destroy/remove the taper on this needle valve.

or is it supposed to look like this???

if not, where do I buy a new high speed needle valve for a 1957 35HP javelin????

 

[DJ]

Re: should my high speed idle needle valve be blunt?

Check these guys for old carb's.

www.twincityoutboard.com

 

[robot]

Re: should my high speed idle needle valve be blunt?

back to my initial question:

SHOULD MY HIGH SPEED NEEDLE VALVE BE BLUNT?

no needle. blunt?

 

[Scaaty]

Re: should my high speed idle needle valve be blunt?

A lot of old Johnsons had rounded Main Jet needles....

 

[ezeke]

Re: should my high speed idle needle valve be blunt?

I think the needle is part # 0305505. If you can get someone to verify that, you can get a new one from your J/E dealer.

 

[WillyBWright]

Re: should my high speed idle needle valve be blunt?

It is indeed blunt. The low speed adjustment will be about a turn out. High speed about 5/8 to 3/4 turn out.

 

[robot]

Re: should my high speed idle needle valve be blunt?

yep I figured that out. the reason I couldn't get the high speed idle adjusted was because I wasnt starting with the needle all the way in. it was out 1/2 turn when I started adjusting (it only needed about 3/8s to get to where it needed to be.