Re: Sikkens Cetol Marine for a swim step
I'm doing mine now -- started last fall, did the most obvious areas, and hoping to finish this week. Gonna do EVERY bit of teak in the cockpit and helm.
My results have been nothing short of excellent. Some tips:
* Be sure to purchase the right color -- some feel one of them is "too orange" but I like the color.
* Don't apply over oiled teak until it's really gone. The oil may prevent adhesion. In my case I chose to sand it down to bare wood. My teak was not "gray" or highly weathered, and I didn't need to bleach it or any of that bull****... in any event I think it's faster to sand anyhow and you get better results in the end.
* Don't try to take all the teak off the boat if you need to remove dowel plugs to do so. It's very difficult to replace them after the piece is all redone and ready for reinstallation. You'll need to plug, sand, and then reappy over the plug. Not good. Tons of unnecessary work. Mask it off instead.
* Do remove doors, hatches, handles, companionway units, etc. if they come off easy. Do those on a bench or at home.
* Do mask off everything else with good quality painter's tape (blue). That will minimize any sanding of nearby gelcoat. Be sure the tape is properly in place and stuck down well, with no sanding holes, when you apply the sauce.
* Don't worry about a few drips - they either wipe right off, or, if dried, can be removed with your fingernail.
* Do sand before applying, but you don't need to go crazy. The finish really doesn't require "perfectly new wood".
* Apply two coats, sand with a very mild fiber pad (like a 3M pad), then apply the third coat. I didn't use the gloss and don't feel I need it.
* Next year, sand it again very lightly and apply another. Do this annually and you'll have perfect teak forever.
