Re: silent alert horn
If you look at the cap on the tank on the engine, there are a couple of wires coming off it. There are also wires coming from the oil pump. They all go to a module bolted to the side of the engine. That's the oil alert module. If you follow the 2 wires over the top of the engine from that module, they will go to a terminal block on the starboard side. One of those wires is 12 volts when the ignition is on. Test it to see if it's getting there. The other goes to the alarm. That one also has a wire that goes to an overtemp switch in one head. The alarm, buzzer, horn, light, or whatever is connected to 12 volts when the power is on, so there should be 12 volts there also when the alarm is not sounding. If you short that one to ground it'll sound the alarm if the horn is hooked up right. If shorting that one sounds the alarm, and the supply of 12 V is there, and the alarm doesn't go beeeep, beep, beep, beep when you power up, the alarm module is bad.
BTW, if power is always on the switched power lead, the alarm won't go through the test run. It only does that when the power goes from 0 V to 12 V. Sometimes a wire gets crossed hooking up whatever under the dash, and that line is powered from some other circuit. The alarm will still work, but it will kill the battery in storage, and not give you the warm fuzzy needed when you turn on the key.
Recap
The power wire should be 0 V with the key off, 12 V with the key on.
The alarm wire should be 12 V with the key on, and sound the alarm when grounded.
If that's all true, and it doesn't do the self test, replace the module. Otherwise fix the bad wire/switch.
hope it helps
John