Slickcraft SS160V Project

[pjc]

Hello All!<br />New kid on the block! Proud owner of new to me 1967 Slickcraft sport boat. Power by '67 Johnson Super Sea Horse 80hp.<br />Interior is gutted, stringers may be ok. Transom has no glass skin on inside and is mostly rotted. I've excavated some of the rot out and may wind up with 30-40% good ply. <br />I intend to CPES remaining ply, glass in new and additional ply w/ Doc Rots L&L epoxy and 10oz. glass cloth. <br />I will also CPES stringer wood. <br />Floor is soft in spots between stringers. I will epoxy new 5/8" ply over existing floor, epoxy 10oz. cloth and blend edges w/ 24oz. roving. <br />All new wood will be pre treated with CPES.<br /><br />My question is: has anyone here knowledge of or experience with this model or similar Slickcraft?<br /><br />Any comments on my intentions are hugely appreciated!<br />Best to all,<br />Pat Campbell

 

[JasonJ]

Re: Slickcraft SS160V Project

Its more work, but I really think you should gut her down to the shell and start with fresh stringers, floor, and transom. They form the structure of the boat, and while what you propose will work, it won't be as tied together. The transom should be a single unit, in layers maybe, but should still be a single unit and not sectioned. There is a huge load on the transom, it needs to be very strong. Adding a piece of 5/8th ply is just adding weight, which is the enemy of boating. You are not sure if the stringers are sound, but if you have floor rot and transom rot, those stringers are probably rotted as well. You would have a good layer of floor laying on top of a bad layer of floor that is probably not tied into rotted stringers, attached to a pieced together transom. Kinda scary. Now, if you replace everything, and epoxy or even poly it all together, you have a truly strong safe boat that will handle more abuse and weigh less. Any old wet wood left in there will just ruin any new wood, and just be dead weight. Just my .02, but good luck and post pics

 

[pjc]

Re: Slickcraft SS160V Project

Thanks JasonJ,<br />Indeed, upon further review, I will be gutting entire floor. I initially placed a small squirel cage blower over a 3/4" hole in the fuel tank bay, thus forcing fresh air under the floor. Air exited through array of screw holes and several soft spots in glass cloth over rotted floor ply.<br /><br />Once she dried up pretty good I opened up a couple of the soft spots for a look inside. Yep, seems the stringer wood needs attention, so on and so forth. Won't know more till entire floor is out. Considering SeaCast stringers and transom. <br /><br />BTW, I phoned Pursuit boats, asking to speak with Leon Slickkers himself. The receptionist was perplexed, asking who I was and what I wanted. Said I had this Slikker I was restoring, seeking info on original interior layout, etc. Naturally, my call was routed to a recording in customer support. Yea, I know, I really did not expect to be connected to Leon himself. was worth a shot though. Never did get a call back from cust. support either. Didn't really expect one.<br /><br />Anybody here have any info on this '67 Slikker SS160V?<br />Bset to all,<br />Pat

 

[pjc]

Re: Slickcraft SS160V Project

In addition to the questions above, anyone have or know where to get photos of this boat? Also, as long as the floor is out I'm going to add floation in the bilges. Does anyone here have experience with the pourable foam from Defender?<br />Thanks all,<br />Pat

 

[JasonJ]

Re: Slickcraft SS160V Project

Sorry to hear about the rot, but not surprised. Seacast transom would probably be a good thing, but seacast stringers might not be the best thing. The seacast would add a lot of weight for the strength it gives. You might be better off looking into the composite stringers. They are a bit spendy from what I understand, but if you epoxy them in, you will have a rot proof boat for sure.<br /><br />All that being said, when I did Project Skanky Beast, I used good ol' ACX bought from the local lumber joint. I did a lot of soul searching, and I came to the conclusion that the materials I chose were superior to what was originally used, and it had lasted 33 years. I used better techniques, paid better attention to what I did, and as a result, I can't see why it can't last at least another 33 years, and I take much better care of a boat than a lot of people do. The last thing I realized is how long will I really have this boat. I figure it can't be more than four or five years, by then I'll be able to afford a new or newer boat, so it doesn't need to last. It would be doubtfull I would get much for it, but you never know.<br /><br />As far as foam goes, I am sure this Defender foam is like any other 2 part expanding foam. It is messy but not dificult to deal with. Some say use it before you lay the floor, I say glass everything in and then put it in through a series ofr holes. It endes up being part of the structure this way, as it expends into every crack and crevice. You have to be very carefull not to put too much in, or your flor can blow out. You also can go with 1/2 inch flooring, because the foam adds support. Also, the closer together the stringers are, the thinner you can go on the floor, but stick with 1/2 inch as a minimum, for structural sake. <br /><br />Lastly, lets see a pic or two...

 

[pjc]

Re: Slickcraft SS160V Project

Hey JasonJ!<br />I surfed through your "Skanky Beast" project photos. WOW- nice job my man! Sure musta been tons of work.<br />I followed your suggestion and posted one thumbnail photo in my first post. More, bigger and better, to follow. <br />I should mention this Slikker was an Ebay auction, me being high bidder at $510.00.<br />BTW, viewing your project photos has motivated me to do my project right!<br />Pat

 

[pjc]

Re: Slickcraft SS160V Project

<bump> I will post photos of the gutting process as it goes.

 

[SeaMasterZ@aol.com]

Re: Slickcraft SS160V Project

Pat - stick with Jason on this one, he sure knows his biz ... if yer gonna get sticky, might as well do it right! Good Luck with it, looks like you got a great deal if the engine runs well, that trailer looks like its in great shape<br /><br />Jason ... hope you are following this thread ... what do you think about using those bottles as filler in the two part foam deal? expensive as that foam is, and as light as those bottles are, seems like foam would be a good way to go, and would ALSO have a safety effect by compressing if there was too much foam in there, the bottles would compress rather than blow out the floor ... which would totally suck!!!<br /><br />as usual, I wonder about that same compressability in making th e floor as strong, maybe its not such a good idea after all, but what do you think about it? dealing with two boats here, and the cash registers are ringing like crazy and I am no where near the water yet, lol<br /><br />do you need to drain the foamed area too? a piece of pvc pipe run down the keel?

 

[JasonJ]

Re: Slickcraft SS160V Project

The 2 part foam generates enough heat that you can feel it through the fiberglass hull. That is enough heat that it could melt or burst the thin plastic on the coke bottles, creating voids that could fill with water. The container route is viable, but the containers should be thick enough to withstand the heat and pressure. Using PVC with capped ends is also viable, but you will not save any money, as the cost of capped PVC is near the cost of the equivelant cubic footage of foam, but the pvc weighs more. In the end, the lightest strongest way is just foam. It isn't the cheapest, but it is the most effective if you are looking for lightweight, strength, and floatability.

 

[G DANE]

Re: Slickcraft SS160V Project

Jason - I´m in the process of building myselves. Did the stringers, 7 ones and must agree tough job for back !!. I already put in floor, didnt think of flotation. No laws about flotation hrer. Good idea however. My hull design is a bit different, the boat has a complete innershell from poly-resin. However there is an 1 " opening in each side from under the floor to behind the innersides. Floor is carried by innersides, and supported rests on stringers ( I put in screws now ). Do you think, if I just poor foam in it can expand and the rest escape through the opening on sides of floor, or will it lift my floor ?

 

[JasonJ]

Re: Slickcraft SS160V Project

G-Dane, the foam expands at a fixed rate in all directions. If you pour too much in at a time, it can bulge the floor even if there if more room. What I did was elevate the bow as much as I could and still be able to work inside, and then put 2 inch holes every two feet between all stringers. I then would mix only a few cups at a time, and pour through the holes, working my way from the lowest point (back of boat) to the highest point (front of boat). I always waited until each pour was fully expanded before mixing the next batch. This way I could monitor the expansion and there was always escape holes. I would set the plug of wood in the hole I poured through when the foam got to it, and set a 25 pound dumbell on top to keep the pressure from pushing the plug out. I then glassed over the plugs and was done. It was time consuming, but it is about the only way you can be sure. If you pour the entire calculated amount in at once, it will not expand to fill the entire void, it will expand and try to push everything out of its way in all directions, resulting in blown out floors and bulged hulls. Good luck....

 

[G DANE]

Re: Slickcraft SS160V Project

Thanks Jason<br /><br />Its been really good to follow your project, the pictures you posted has been very helpfull to us all. Good teaching !!

 

[santa666]

Re: Slickcraft SS160V Project

Hey, Milwaukee slickcraft owner:<br />please check out the slickcraft owners site over at MSN under 70's slickcraft owners group. We have ALOT of knowledge on the great (older) Boats<br /><br />SS235MAN-<br /><br />(assistant site manager)

 

[pjc]

Re: Slickcraft SS160V Project

The photos in my first post are of the Slikker at the sellers home. Recall that I bought 'er sight unseen, ebay auction. Seller claimed floor was solid, transom little soft in one spot.<br />Welllllll- got into 'er good yesterday, floor shot, transom mostly shot. <br />Amazing how well a skill saw, carbide blade, and jig saw w/ 18tpi blade chop thru glass and rotten ply. <br />The stringers are salvageable. I will be treating stringers w/ CPES and laminate new 1/2" ply alongside glassing the whole mess in. <br />Also gonna add a couple new stringers between existing ones. And fill the whole area under the floor w/ pourable foam. Not a bit of flotation in there now.<br />On this boat, the under deck bilge area is sealed off, theoreticaly water tight. What did 'er in was the screw holes from seating, etc. I consider screwing into flooring, thus creating a leak channel for water, PUBLIC ENEMY NUMBER ONE!<br />Am sceeming plan for seating fastening w/out screw holes in the floor, ie- glass in fastening points ensuring no water entry under floor.<br />I have to thank all those here for the HUGE amount of information.

 

[JasonJ]

Re: Slickcraft SS160V Project

Sounds like you have a plan. What will the extra stringers be for? If the old stringers are salvageable, I would just stick with them. I hate extra weight, and if you don't need the extras, don't do it. Screwing into the floor is fine as long as a good sealant is used, but glassing in mounting points is certainly the ultimate way to be sure.

 

[pjc]

Re: Slickcraft SS160V Project

Thanks JJ,<br />Am attaching some photos of project in Official Slickcraft SS160 Resto Center. Much like you JJ I'm in "carport". Structure was a $100 at home and barn center. Young Lady is First Mate, My Second Mate (The Boy,3, was nappy time, and the Commander Herself was inside Castle. The nutjob in other photo is crazyman doin' the work.<br />Anyhoo- the reason for added stringer lams is existing are OK, but I feel the need to add, darn the weight. Additionally, Leon chose to butt join center stringer at fuel well and short change side stringers. Also in photos wood core suido? stringers are at inner skid rails. I wanna add stringers there for added support not only for hull, but for floor. Gonna use 1/2" ac ply.<br />Now as for matt -vs- woven roving, I've discovered that most matt is adhesive treated and only suitable for poly resin. Have found sewn matt for epoxy. <br />What I need an opinion on is I want to use woven roving to glass in stringers. I am commited to use epoxy 'cause I will treat the existing stringers, ply, etc.as well as new wood with RotDocs CPES.<br />Whatcha all think?<br /><br />

 

[G DANE]

Re: Slickcraft SS160V Project

Hi Pat Campbell <br /><br />I´d say that Slickcraft is a nice build boat. It looks to be in fine shape, stringers looks really good, will save you for lots of work. Everything looks clean and helthy. You could consider pouring in cloused cell foam to get the wanted extra strength, support and safety. I am sure you will have lots of fun and good time on water with your family when it is finished. I would use resin and paint with epoxy paint if it were mee, but I know I am pretty alone on that.

 

[pjc]

Re: Slickcraft SS160V Project

a thank you g dane, <br />and a huge congrats to those whose projects are completed. <br />me, i been busy lamin in new stringers. about 50% or less done.<br />any hoo- bought epoxy and cloth from US Composits in FL, USA-- fine company-- and rot stuff-(RotDocs-CPES_) from the rot doctors in Cali. Used 1/2" fir ply and lamed stringers equal 2" thick 'cause i included old wood. was original one inch stringers in this hull, decided to lam new wood along side old and mat/resin in same. and cpes old wood for integrety. some minor rot here and there in old wood.<br />

 

[pjc]

Re: Slickcraft SS160V Project

^---^

 

[G DANE]

Re: Slickcraft SS160V Project

Hi again Pat<br /><br />Everythng looks good. Did you invent those pliers yourselves ? Good idea. If you laminated 2 pcs 1/2" ply on each side of old stringers it will be rock solid !! Be sure to cover the outher sides with a layer of mat or two. If you can get epoxy or urethane paint at a reasonable price, you can paint stringers afterwards. It will last for a lifetime then. Its possible to get extra strength by filling up with 2component foam it you need. But its surely strong enough without it. Is that nice old Johnson running ?